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Old 02-04-2016, 12:57 PM   #18196
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Thank you very much!! Did you make the two additional holes on the chassis for the front two screws on the trans?

I see you cut the brace on the front part of the chassis behind the servo. I just did this as well, did you see any additional flex from it?

I was pretty sure I was the top of the motor plate getting in the way as well.

Awesome buggy, it looks great! It looks like you're running on high bite clay. Have you gotten it all dialed in?
No, just used the existing mounting locations on the chassis. There is definitely some extra flex because of the cross bracing being removed. I've only got one race day on the car like this, but I'm super happy with it. Our last race we had a few fast guys from out of town come, and I was able to put it on the podium - after I used qualifying to sort out the growing pains.

As for the Reedy 800z, I'm really digging it so far. Next on my agenda is to play with the tuning options on it.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:11 PM   #18197
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No, just used the existing mounting locations on the chassis. There is definitely some extra flex because of the cross bracing being removed. I've only got one race day on the car like this, but I'm super happy with it. Our last race we had a few fast guys from out of town come, and I was able to put it on the podium - after I used qualifying to sort out the growing pains.

As for the Reedy 800z, I'm really digging it so far. Next on my agenda is to play with the tuning options on it.
That makes me even more excited to get this thing on the track. I will be running on high bite carpet up in Northern Connecticut. Last time I ran the track, just for fun and not racing, I was having issues getting the rear to stick more than the front but that was before the majority of upgrades. I think it's going to be a different story now.

I can't believe how cheaply prices the SMC 4400 is, I've never run SMC. I am going to purchase a couple.

I really want the 800z but I have he Tekin RSX in this and a brand new Orion ESC on the side. I cannot justify that purchase, just yet! I have read all about it and it seems great and light weight.

I would like to get better at making small adjustments to correct the issues. A great tip I read here is that when making adjustments to make a larger one that normally so you can see the drastic differences and this would allow you to pinpoint where you want to go with it. I also want to get better at all the adjustments on my remote, Dx4r Pro.
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Old 02-04-2016, 01:45 PM   #18198
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I just installed the 800z in my 17.5 buggy and ran it for the first time last night in practice. I like it. It's significantly lighter than my old DE10. I didn't notice much of a difference in power and acceleration but I did notice my car seems to brake a lot better and smoother now. I was able to raise the max brake on my radio much higher without fear of losing control under hard braking. The drive/brake frequency setting changes are a new concept to me but I seem to prefer the highest frequency settings (maybe that's why the braking seems so much better now) with the highest power profile setting.
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Old 02-04-2016, 02:24 PM   #18199
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Well I just got done rebuilding the back end and trans on the buggy. Replaced the rear hubs with the 0* aluminum ones that you put the ball in vertical. I also put in the rear Schelle D mount with removable Pins so you don't have to take everything apart. I also put in 3-1 C inserts in along with B5 A arms.

I built a 4 gear lay down trans with cut gears, Avid ceramic bearings and Avid gear balls and thrust bearing. I already had the MIP pucks and axles. I still have to adjust wheel angles but I will do that last, after going through the front end and a re-wire.

The one problem I ran into with the lay down trans is that my Reedy 5200 battery doesn't fit, seems about an inch short. I have ordered a ProTek RC 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 100C X-Lightweight, 2800 should be fine for a race right? I will probably order an Orion 100C Li-Poly Shorty Pack Battery at 4500mah to play around and get some more time from. I would like to hear what battry you are running, especially if you have the laydown trans.

Also there is a little front to back play on the rear inside A arms/hinge pin, about 0.4mm. Therefore I need some 3.5mmx.3mm spacers. Has anyone does this already? Ideally I would like about .1-.15 of play.

Also the S2 body doesn't fit perfectly. Looks like the top shaft is a little long so I will either need to trim that or poke a hole in the body for it.







Nice car!! What tranny is that one? Can you post a link? I haven't raced 2wd for a long time. Doing Nitro 1/8, truggy and onroad nitro GT for a while. I will race on two indoor carpet tracks.
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Old 02-04-2016, 02:36 PM   #18200
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Nice car!! What tranny is that one? Can you post a link? I haven't raced 2wd for a long time. Doing Nitro 1/8, truggy and onroad nitro GT for a while. I will race on two indoor carpet tracks.

It's a 3 gear lay down trans. You need to purchase the two halves plus one of the two waterfalls/brace you want, and the battery strap. I went with the battery strap/waterfall brace combo. While I rebuilt it I also went with the Avid ceramic bearings, balls and thrust washer as well as cut gears. Might as well make the rotating mass as light as possible.

All items can be found here. Be careful as there is a 4 gear and a 3 gear transmission, make sure to choose the correct one. I accidentally ordered the 4 gear at first.

Red workshop also makes a setup but it ships from Europe I believe and take a lot longer. He also makes a lot to move the shock tower and the shocks to the front of the arms.

3 gear transmission is great for high bite carpet. The lay down shifts weight and lowers the center of gravit.

https://www.shapeways.com/designer/ac_rc_gear
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:55 PM   #18201
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Originally Posted by Just2much19 View Post
Thank you very much!! Did you make the two additional holes on the chassis for the front two screws on the trans?

I see you cut the brace on the front part of the chassis behind the servo. I just did this as well, did you see any additional flex from it?

I was pretty sure I was the top of the motor plate getting in the way as well.

Awesome buggy, it looks great! It looks like you're running on high bite clay. Have you gotten it all dialed in?
I'll be doing this as well with an Xfinity chassis. Super excited. Got the LRG from Shapeworks.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:37 PM   #18202
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I'll be doing this as well with an Xfinity chassis. Super excited. Got the LRG from Shapeworks.

Awesome, it's great to see some with similar setups. Make sure to post up some photos and your thoughts as well as adjustments. Don't forget to have the right battery to go with the LRG setup like I did, I just ordered a couple now. Did you go with the waterfall or the battery strap mount? 3 or 4 gear?

I also purchased the "hard" bulkhead but for now I cut the stock one.

I take it you are running 17.5 class? What motor/ESC setup are you running?
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:46 PM   #18203
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Right before I added the LRG transmission and the cut gears I was right at 1533g. Now with these changes and the smaller battery I expect to be lighter than the 1499g. I ordered the adjustable Revolutionary Designs Racing brass front hinge pin bulkhead to add weight back to it and in the front end to balance the buggy out.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:46 PM   #18204
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Yes running stock.

I run a Hobbywing and Trinity D4 1s. Looking to go to the 24k motor soon.

There's a guy that did a lrg conversion to his mod buggy and he loves it.

I will take lotsa pics, already did a test fit so we are good to go.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:49 PM   #18205
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Originally Posted by Just2much19 View Post
Right before I added the LRG transmission and the cut gears I was right at 1533g. Now with these changes and the smaller battery I expect to be lighter than the 1499g. I ordered the adjustable Revolutionary Designs Racing brass front hinge pin bulkhead to add weight back to it and in the front end to balance the buggy out.
I'd run it on the track first , you may have plenty of rear traction. I will only add brass weight if I absolutely need it.

Right now I'm underweight with a full size shorty lol.

Try this in your rear shocks. Machined 3 x 1.4 pistons with 27.5 AE oil with green springs, you should have plenty of rear bite.
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:55 PM   #18206
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I'd run it on the track first , you may have plenty of rear traction. I will only add brass weight if I absolutely need it.

Right now I'm underweight with a full size shorty lol.

Try this in your rear shocks. Machined 3 x 1.4 pistons with 27.5 AE oil with green springs, you should have plenty of rear bite.

Thanks for the advice, I will look into the parts now, by green you mean the 2.00 springs right?

What about the front springs/shocks?
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:23 PM   #18207
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I'm not sure what the spring rate.

For front I run machined 1.6 pistons with 32.5 AE oil with grey front springs.

I have tons of steering with this.

Also run the aluminum front bulkhead for a little extra weight on front end.
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:27 PM   #18208
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I'm not sure what the spring rate.

For front I run machined 1.6 pistons with 32.5 AE oil with grey front springs.

I have tons of steering with this.

Also run the aluminum front bulkhead for a little extra weight on front end.
I am running the whites in the front and have plenty of steering. Are you running the 25* or the 30*?
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Old 02-04-2016, 07:36 PM   #18209
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25 plus 5 deg in the hubs
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Old 02-04-2016, 09:43 PM   #18210
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Silly question, but what are you guys using to clean your FT blue seal bearings to get the grit out? Curious if old faithful motor cleaner was still applicable or if folks were maybe using crazy ultrasonic cleaners now I just want to make sure I am not eating up the seals before their time is due.

Also what kind of oil/lube are you using after cleaning them?

Thanks!
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