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Old 02-03-2016, 02:29 PM   #18166
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Just wanted to post a picture of my car. Painted it myself and think came out pretty darn good for my first try. Currently runnng a Hobbywing xe10 ESC with Justock 17.5 motor. Radio is Spektrum DX4C and the Servo is some old digital hitec MG that'll be replaced eventually since it's a little big.
Looking sharp!! It feels so good when a body comes out good, doesn't it?!
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Old 02-03-2016, 02:38 PM   #18167
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Can someone tell me exactly what the hinge pin mod is? What to do and why? I've searched but there are way too many pages.

Sorry, I'm sure this has been talked about and asked 100 times.
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Old 02-03-2016, 03:17 PM   #18168
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it's removing the front hinge pin brace to get alittle more clearance when landing nose down
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Old 02-03-2016, 03:33 PM   #18169
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it's removing the front hinge pin brace to get alittle more clearance when landing nose down
Ive read about people doing exactly that. Ive been thinking about it but not sure if I want to do it yet...
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Old 02-03-2016, 03:41 PM   #18170
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Harder plastic. They are more likely to break when compared to std plastic. The hard arms are normally used in high bite conditions, the plastic can flex and the hard makes the car more responsive as it doesn't flex as much.

from fellow regular racers, they could hardly feel a difference other than the harder plastic being more brittle and breaking when you hit a pipe or something.
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Old 02-03-2016, 03:42 PM   #18171
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Can someone tell me exactly what the hinge pin mod is? What to do and why? I've searched but there are way too many pages.

Sorry, I'm sure this has been talked about and asked 100 times.
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb5/B5_RyanCavalieri_FrontEndTip/
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Old 02-03-2016, 04:16 PM   #18172
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http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb5/B5_RyanCavalieri_FrontEndTip/


Perfect, thank you. It appears you need the aluminum bulkhead that had the set screws in them. This is more for high speed scrubbing so if you have a long track with a lot of jumps it can be beneficial, that is if you are good at scrubbing.
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Old 02-03-2016, 06:39 PM   #18173
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Yeah, it comes in handy if you have very steep take-offs on jumps where the front may be dragging or if there's the possibility of really nosing onto a flat landing. It also has its negatives though in that all of the force on hard impacts on the front arms are transferred to the front noseplate and can cause failure/cracking. I'd say if you don't have a hobby shop with ample parts (the noseplate/front arms) available at the track, it's probably not worth the modification.

*also, a little trick if you do the mod, take a lighter to the front bumper to heat it up and bend it up to the front bulkhead.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:44 PM   #18174
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Well I just got done rebuilding the back end and trans on the buggy. Replaced the rear hubs with the 0* aluminum ones that you put the ball in vertical. I also put in the rear Schelle D mount with removable Pins so you don't have to take everything apart. I also put in 3-1 C inserts in along with B5 A arms.

I built a 4 gear lay down trans with cut gears, Avid ceramic bearings and Avid gear balls and thrust bearing. I already had the MIP pucks and axles. I still have to adjust wheel angles but I will do that last, after going through the front end and a re-wire.

The one problem I ran into with the lay down trans is that my Reedy 5200 battery doesn't fit, seems about an inch short. I have ordered a ProTek RC 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 100C X-Lightweight, 2800 should be fine for a race right? I will probably order an Orion 100C Li-Poly Shorty Pack Battery at 4500mah to play around and get some more time from. I would like to hear what battry you are running, especially if you have the laydown trans.

Also there is a little front to back play on the rear inside A arms/hinge pin, about 0.4mm. Therefore I need some 3.5mmx.3mm spacers. Has anyone does this already? Ideally I would like about .1-.15 of play.

Also the S2 body doesn't fit perfectly. Looks like the top shaft is a little long so I will either need to trim that or poke a hole in the body for it.







Last edited by Just2much19; 02-03-2016 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 02-04-2016, 03:15 AM   #18175
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Originally Posted by Just2much19 View Post
Well I just got done rebuilding the back end and trans on the buggy. Replaced the rear hubs with the 0* aluminum ones that you put the ball in vertical. I also put in the rear Schelle D mount with removable Pins so you don't have to take everything apart. I also put in 3-1 C inserts in along with B5 A arms.

I built a 4 gear lay down trans with cut gears, Avid ceramic bearings and Avid gear balls and thrust bearing. I already had the MIP pucks and axles. I still have to adjust wheel angles but I will do that last, after going through the front end and a re-wire.

The one problem I ran into with the lay down trans is that my Reedy 5200 battery doesn't fit, seems about an inch short. I have ordered a ProTek RC 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 100C X-Lightweight, 2800 should be fine for a race right? I will probably order an Orion 100C Li-Poly Shorty Pack Battery at 4500mah to play around and get some more time from. I would like to hear what battry you are running, especially if you have the laydown trans.

Also there is a little front to back play on the rear inside A arms/hinge pin, about 0.4mm. Therefore I need some 3.5mmx.3mm spacers. Has anyone does this already? Ideally I would like about .1-.15 of play.

Also the S2 body doesn't fit perfectly. Looks like the top shaft is a little long so I will either need to trim that or poke a hole in the body for it.






What are those wheels on your buggy? I assume that they are for adjusting your setup, but I have never seen them before. Where can I get a set.
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:32 AM   #18176
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What are those wheels on your buggy? I assume that they are for adjusting your setup, but I have never seen them before. Where can I get a set.
+1 those must be for carpet tracks!

What's really shocking about those pictures is all that money in carbon chassis, D4 motor, low profile tranny, pucks,slipper eliminator, all those aluminum pieces, and yet has nasty birdcage bullet connectors?
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:08 AM   #18177
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I believe those are best used on medium bite clay tracks with no cracks.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:15 AM   #18178
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+1 those must be for carpet tracks!

What's really shocking about those pictures is all that money in carbon chassis, D4 motor, low profile tranny, pucks,slipper eliminator, all those aluminum pieces, and yet has nasty birdcage bullet connectors?
The bird cage are fine. I use the reedy 5mm ones in my car, no issues and a better fit. solid connectors, at least in 5mm, can be very annoying. Never has issues with 5mm solid connectors, but the 5mm ones....they have sucked.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:19 AM   #18179
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The bird cage are fine. I use the reedy 5mm ones in my car, no issues and a better fit. solid connectors, at least in 5mm, can be very annoying. Never has issues with 5mm solid connectors, but the 5mm ones....they have sucked.
Wasn't there a big uproar a year or two ago with cheap birdcages melitng down lipos since the are inconsistent with contact? I tossed out my birdcages long ago and went solid. Good quality solid connectors are way way better in holding contact from my experience.
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:26 AM   #18180
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Originally Posted by Just2much19 View Post
Well I just got done rebuilding the back end and trans on the buggy. Replaced the rear hubs with the 0* aluminum ones that you put the ball in vertical. I also put in the rear Schelle D mount with removable Pins so you don't have to take everything apart. I also put in 3-1 C inserts in along with B5 A arms.

I built a 4 gear lay down trans with cut gears, Avid ceramic bearings and Avid gear balls and thrust bearing. I already had the MIP pucks and axles. I still have to adjust wheel angles but I will do that last, after going through the front end and a re-wire.

The one problem I ran into with the lay down trans is that my Reedy 5200 battery doesn't fit, seems about an inch short. I have ordered a ProTek RC 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 100C X-Lightweight, 2800 should be fine for a race right? I will probably order an Orion 100C Li-Poly Shorty Pack Battery at 4500mah to play around and get some more time from. I would like to hear what battry you are running, especially if you have the laydown trans.

Also there is a little front to back play on the rear inside A arms/hinge pin, about 0.4mm. Therefore I need some 3.5mmx.3mm spacers. Has anyone does this already? Ideally I would like about .1-.15 of play.

Also the S2 body doesn't fit perfectly. Looks like the top shaft is a little long so I will either need to trim that or poke a hole in the body for it.
I have a very similar setup (carbon chassis, 3 gear ACRC, JC S2W). You can only run shorty packs with the laydown gear boxes because they move everything a little forward into the battery cradle area. I run SMC 4400 batteries. Yes you'll have to make a relief hole for your topshaft. I also had to trim a little more on my motor plate at the top because the body was contacting it.


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