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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:45 AM   #18121
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Originally Posted by Jason84 View Post
Anybody ever use Traxxas X-rings in the shocks ? Just have the shocks and then done with my build and thought the CE kit would come with but only the basic o-rings. And my LHS doesn't have any so have to drive 30 minutes to one of the other shops to get them.
The Traxxas X-rings work good. They do the job 100% and the price is very reasonable. When I use them my shocks do not leak. That being said, I do not find them to be quite as smooth as the AE and Kyosho clear X-rings but at half the price they are an excellent upgrade over stock and if your not going to the worlds this year they will be just fine.
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Old 02-02-2016, 06:47 AM   #18122
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Have any of you use less anti squat on Med traction clay damp to semi dry ? The stock setting is 3 degrees just seems like a lot inless your on low grip I'm thinking of using 2 degrees .
Stock anti-squat is 1 degree. Stock rear toe-in is 3 degrees
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:02 AM   #18123
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My CE kt's ball cups were fantastic. They were as free as can be. They've done something recently.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:39 AM   #18124
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I got my CE kit yesterday and have it about half way assembled. My steering assembly feels somewhat "notchy" when moving it by hand. It kind of catches a little bit in a couple places when cycling it back and forth. I even added a drop of Tri-Flow to each pivot point. Even if I back off the screws until there's some slop it still isn't very smooth. Is this normal, or do I need to look into it some more?
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:00 AM   #18125
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My CE kt's ball cups were fantastic. They were as free as can be. They've done something recently.
I'm thinking I got a bad batch from the first set. I've heard and seen reports of some getting smooth in the newer kits. I emailed and hope to have something figured out soon.

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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
I got my CE kit yesterday and have it about half way assembled. My steering assembly feels somewhat "notchy" when moving it by hand. It kind of catches a little bit in a couple places when cycling it back and forth. I even added a drop of Tri-Flow to each pivot point. Even if I back off the screws until there's some slop it still isn't very smooth. Is this normal, or do I need to look into it some more?
Interesting..
My kit is smooth in every point till I connect the links. I've never seen them this tight before.
I hope you figure out your binding and when you get to the ball cups yours are smooth.. I suggest building one and checking before you build them all..
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:38 AM   #18126
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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
I got my CE kit yesterday and have it about half way assembled. My steering assembly feels somewhat "notchy" when moving it by hand. It kind of catches a little bit in a couple places when cycling it back and forth. I even added a drop of Tri-Flow to each pivot point. Even if I back off the screws until there's some slop it still isn't very smooth. Is this normal, or do I need to look into it some more?
My CE steering assembly was odd. When I first built it the whole thing wanted to pivot to the left as if a spring was pushing it there. It would not settle in the center - given it does have the weight of the one side with the servo link ball stud there is a little bias, but it was a springy feeling that kept it left - not a weight feeling. I ended fixing it by making sure every screw was absolutely even with it's counterpart screw. Even a thread of difference between a left and right screw seems to throw the balance off.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:45 AM   #18127
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My CE steering assembly was odd. When I first built it the whole thing wanted to pivot to the left as if a spring was pushing it there. It would not settle in the center - given it does have the weight of the one side with the servo link ball stud there is a little bias, but it was a springy feeling that kept it left - not a weight feeling. I ended fixing it by making sure every screw was absolutely even with it's counterpart screw. Even a thread of difference between a left and right screw seems to throw the balance off.
Yeah I'll play with it some more. When I first put the screws in I put them in a little bit tight with the intention of making sure the bearings were pressed all the way in. Then I backed them off a little at a time to find the sweet spot but it still doesn't feel right. I wonder if I might have damaged the little raised lip that butts against the inner bearing race or something. I think in practice it will work fine but if I can't figure it out I might order replacement parts just to make myself feel better.
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:12 AM   #18128
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Any advice for someone new to running this car and new to the class as well??

I picked up a losi 22 2.0 and ran mod buggy the first weekend. Decided I wanted to switch over to this car. Ran it this past weekend and like the car but Im planning on changing over to stock buggy now.

We're running an indoor clay track, that's pretty tight with good traction. I am running stock setup other than I had to switch to the 30 degree bulkhead because I broke the 25!

SO:

- What does the 30 degree bulkhead do to the handling?
- Is there anything I should do to the car to make the switch to stock buggy other than the appropriate motor/ esc?
- What pinion is good to start with for stock buggy?
- Any general setup advice?? Unfortunately I really don't know enough about the car to say that it needs more or less of anything. I was surprised at how much traction it had vs the Losi 22 2.0.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 02-02-2016, 09:45 AM   #18129
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I'm changing the oil in my shocks and am letting them drain out upside down.

What do you people use to clean the old oil out of the shocks? I was told to use brake clean but it seems a bit harsh for the seals. I'd like to get the old dirty oil out before refilling with fresh but don't want to pull the shafts right out to wipe the oil out from under the the piston
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:59 AM   #18130
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This is an old issue that has been fixed with the newer ball cups. Newer kits and packages have the new ones and they're great!


Il take a look at that whats the part number of the newer ones ? I have the team Factory B5M updated .

The plastic rod ends on the steering are the only ones giving me sticking issue even if i squeeze them il try to polish the metal ball end.
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:43 PM   #18131
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
The plastic rod ends on the steering are the only ones giving me sticking issue even if i squeeze them il try to polish the metal ball end.
Is it sticky on the rack side? If so, have you tried removing the o-rings from the ballstuds?
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:03 PM   #18132
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For me it's a new CE kit but I don't feel these ball cups are any where close to right. After reworking them with all the tips and fixes I got them to work better but not like I would expect from a racing kit. Hope they loosen after some runs but only time will tell.
On a good note I'm basically done with the build tell I get some tires and wheels as well as figure out what system I want..
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:16 PM   #18133
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Stock anti-squat is 1 degree. Stock rear toe-in is 3 degrees

I'm running the stock setup on the Factory team 3 degrees anti squat/1 degree inboard toe. Defietly think i can do 2 degree anti squat on Med traction .

I thought about taking them O-rings rings off the steering rod ends seem like it would free them up its the rack side yes.

Update just took off the O-ring on the steering rack totally free the ball rods up just a tad more play but not a lot.
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Last edited by tc5 man; 02-02-2016 at 02:33 PM.
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Old 02-02-2016, 02:57 PM   #18134
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I'm running the stock setup on the Factory team 3 degrees anti squat/1 degree inboard toe.
You have that backwards. It's 3 toe in and 1 anti-squat.
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:34 PM   #18135
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You have that backwards. It's 3 toe in and 1 anti-squat.
This is correct.
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