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Old 01-26-2016, 10:05 AM   #18031
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yeah, I am unsure why they are using the yatabe springs. stiffer rates? According to petit, that is a 2.71lbs springs. AE yellow rear is a 2.4. So a lot stiffer I guess

They're the actual number labeled, instead of being all over the place like oem AE springs.
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:10 AM   #18032
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yeah, I am unsure why they are using the yatabe springs. stiffer rates? According to petit, that is a 2.71lbs springs. AE yellow rear is a 2.4. So a lot stiffer I guess
Wow! Wonder why they want them so stiff?
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:12 AM   #18033
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They're the actual number labeled, instead of being all over the place like oem AE springs.
I highly doubt that is true. I just dont think RC has that good of tolerances. I was told by a few spring makers, that the numbers are averages. The rates often change, because each rod that it is wound from, is never exactly the same. That is why AVID always tested each "batch" and labeled accordingly. AE, TLR, Yok and Kyosho have their numbers all over the place also. if you want matched springs, get a high quality spring tester and buy a crap ton of springs, lol. Otherwise, run what is in the package and work on keeping the wheels down. That is what 99% of us need to do . Btw, I just made up that statistic as I have no real data points
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Last edited by Wildcat1971; 01-26-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:29 AM   #18034
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I highly doubt that is true. I just dont think RC has that good of tolerances. I was told by a few spring makers, that the numbers are averages. The rates often change because each rod thet are wound from is never exactly the same. That is why AVID always tested each "batch" and labeled accordingly. AE, TLR, Yok and Kyosho have their numbers all over the place also. if you want matched springs, get a high quality spring tester and buy a crap ton of springs, lol. Otherwise, run what is in the package and work on keeping the wheels down. That is what 99% of us need to do . Btw, I just made up that statistic as I have no real data points
Im good at keeping it on the wheels. I need more practice driving on the wing. Some reason, I cant keep up with anyone
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Old 01-26-2016, 10:53 AM   #18035
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Hi,

I'm new here and had a couple Traxxas "basher" type R/Cs when I was younger but haven't messed with r/c in about 10 years. Recently visited a local track and I'm interested in running their stock buggy 17.5 blinky class. I've never raced before. I ordered a B5M CE from AMain yesterday and should be getting it in about a week. I've done some research but I have a couple basic questions.

1) Are the screws/nuts metric or SAE? I have some basic automotive tools in the garage but will probably need some smaller hex keys and nut drivers I imagine. What other tools will I need for the assembly?

2) I see both 2.2" and 61(?)mm wheels listed for 1/10 buggies. Which should I use on the B5M?

3) I noticed that none of the local hobbies shops that I visited seem to carry any B5M specific parts. Is this likely to change as the platform ages?

4) Here's my basic list so far for electronics. Please feel free to comment/critique. Local track has a clay surface if that matters.

-Hobbywing XERUN "Justock" sensored brushless ESC
-EcoPower slingshot 17.5 motor
-Airtronics MX-V FHSS-2 Radio
-Savox SC-1258TG Servo
-Hitec X1 AC Plus Single Port AC/DC Charger
-SMC Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C Batteries

Thanks for the help! This board is a great resource!
Any help for a new guy?
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:36 AM   #18036
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Any help for a new guy?
your electronics are fine. 2.2 vs 61mm is track dependent. Ask the locals.
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Old 01-26-2016, 11:57 AM   #18037
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Any help for a new guy?
I'm a new guy too, just came back to RC cars after a long break.

My suggestions - spend some time at the track asking questions before you build. Hopefully they have a store as well and can recommend some of the parts you need.

Car is 99% metric, I think the pinion gear is the only part that is standard. Get a good set of metric drivers, a MIP set would be the best.

Ask at the track which tires and wheels to get - it's a huge part of the set up and typically there is a dominant favorite at the local track.

Spend a lot of time making sure everything is set up right before your 1st time - camber, ride height, droop, etc. Get a camber gauge and a ride height tool. It's easier to understand what to change if you start from a standard, correct set up. Chances are you will need to make changes, but it will take awhile to figure out which problem is the car and which is the driver.

Practice, practice, practice. And don't be surprised when the 10 year old kid whips your butt - it's going to happen for awhile.

Bruce
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Old 01-26-2016, 12:49 PM   #18038
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Originally Posted by Gearhead82 View Post
Hi,

I'm new here and had a couple Traxxas "basher" type R/Cs when I was younger but haven't messed with r/c in about 10 years. Recently visited a local track and I'm interested in running their stock buggy 17.5 blinky class. I've never raced before. I ordered a B5M CE from AMain yesterday and should be getting it in about a week. I've done some research but I have a couple basic questions.

1) Are the screws/nuts metric or SAE? I have some basic automotive tools in the garage but will probably need some smaller hex keys and nut drivers I imagine. What other tools will I need for the assembly?

2) I see both 2.2" and 61(?)mm wheels listed for 1/10 buggies. Which should I use on the B5M?

3) I noticed that none of the local hobbies shops that I visited seem to carry any B5M specific parts. Is this likely to change as the platform ages?

4) Here's my basic list so far for electronics. Please feel free to comment/critique. Local track has a clay surface if that matters.

-Hobbywing XERUN "Justock" sensored brushless ESC
-EcoPower slingshot 17.5 motor
-Airtronics MX-V FHSS-2 Radio
-Savox SC-1258TG Servo
-Hitec X1 AC Plus Single Port AC/DC Charger
-SMC Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C Batteries

Thanks for the help! This board is a great resource!
I actually just got the same kit... Bought it 2 weeks ago and just finished last night. Some parts are fun to build and others frustrated me a little... most likely because I haven't put a kit together in a long time since I've been away from the Hobby myself. The screws are all metric and you can do 1 of 2 things -

http://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-10686-.../dp/B0006O4AD8

for ~17 dollars

or if you have some SAE wrenches, a few of the sizes are the same. I don't recall off hand but some of them will work. I have a set of MIP SAE Wrenches and was able to build about 90% of the car with them.

I stuck to the stock build provided in the instructions and will make changes as I run it and develop my own style. I was told to run the 3 gear transmission for stock class (which I'm in). My electronics are similar, I got the same ESC but I bought it as a combo with a motor. The motor will probably be replaced once I know how to drive since it's nothing special.

I bought the Hitec x2 AC Plus - it's pretty much the 2 battery charger version of yours. It was $100. I have limited time from when I get out of work to when I can practice on my local track before they close so I felt like that was a good choice.

I'm still in the learning phase too .. there are a lot of good resources here and I like ShortCourseWorld on youtube.. they guy Jason puts out a lot of good videos.

You can also PM me if you have questions, I'm so far from being an expert but I'm sure there are a lot of things out there that I haven't even realized you could ask about.
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Old 01-26-2016, 01:05 PM   #18039
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Any help for a new guy?
Just get a MIP 1.5mm and a MIP 2mm driver. that should cover 99% of what you need for screws. Use TLR pinions, those use a 1.5mm set screw. I use a hitachi electric screw driver for wheel nuts, because it is faster and easier. I picked up a Team Associated FT 7mm bit for the hitachi. I also like the hitatchi for working on the car, using the mip 1.5 and 2mm bit, but you need to use common sense on the clutch, or you will start stripping out screws. I use clutch settings 4-5 on mine. I also manually snug them down and hand twist the hitachi to break them loose for removal.
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Old 01-26-2016, 02:18 PM   #18040
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Thanks for the help! I'll pick the brains at my local track for a bit to figure out the tire/wheel situation, etc. Looking forward to my first kit. I've always liked working on stuff just as much as running it so I'm looking forward to tuning and learning as much as I can.
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Old 01-26-2016, 02:40 PM   #18041
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Thanks for the help! I'll pick the brains at my local track for a bit to figure out the tire/wheel situation, etc. Looking forward to my first kit. I've always liked working on stuff just as much as running it so I'm looking forward to tuning and learning as much as I can.
LOL what ever you do ... make sure you don't mess up the treads on the tires. I accidentally glued the front tires wrong and 1 wheel's treads are facing the right way and the other wheel is facing the wrong way. Luckily they're only slicks so it's okay .. but it looks a little silly.. I lined the wheels up wrong when I set the tires to them before gluing.
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Old 01-26-2016, 02:41 PM   #18042
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Thanks for the help! I'll pick the brains at my local track for a bit to figure out the tire/wheel situation, etc. Looking forward to my first kit. I've always liked working on stuff just as much as running it so I'm looking forward to tuning and learning as much as I can.
Ask the guys at the track how they prep their tires and what traction compound they use. Thats pretty critical at most tracks.
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Old 01-26-2016, 05:01 PM   #18043
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Any help for a new guy?
get a better motor,

other than that stock up on tires and wings and have fun.

you may want to invest in a better charger to charge batteries faster.
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:52 PM   #18044
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What's the new FT AE pinions, metric?
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Old 01-26-2016, 09:28 PM   #18045
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On the B5m what advantage do the alluminum c and d arm mounts provide with the different inserts.

Looking for a technical explanation. I run high bite carpet track.

Thanks.
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