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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:09 AM   #17896
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yeah that price range on the Savox was what I was looking to spend. I just got this kit and got back into the hobby after many years away. Its a lot of money all up front for everything so if I don't need to spend 100 bucks on a servo, I'm cool with that. I do have a digital Hitech servo spare, but i'm thinking it might be too large. Is this Savox one a smaller size or does the B5M fit a standard sized one? I'll have to post the model later as I do not remember off hand.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:22 AM   #17897
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Hi guys, my son Tyler just signed with AE for 2016. Excited for the new change!! Any tips on car build? We've ran for TLR for 4.5 of his 6 years of racing and just want to make sure we build car right.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:23 AM   #17898
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Default rear camber mount

What happens when I flip the rear camber mount over, what change does it make both ways
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:27 AM   #17899
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What happens when I flip the rear camber mount over, what change does it make both ways
The lower the ball stud, the higher the roll center.

The higher the ball stud, the lower the roll center.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:28 AM   #17900
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Which size and length turnbuckles do you use for the Front camber links that are titanium because. I've bent two of the stock steel ones not really hitting anything .

I've ran the Associated blue turnbuckles before on a T4.1 and liked them .




Anybody ?
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:47 PM   #17901
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Anybody ?
2 inch. Unless you are running an extremely long link, then use a 2.1".
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:50 PM   #17902
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Hi guys, my son Tyler just signed with AE for 2016. Excited for the new change!! Any tips on car build? We've ran for TLR for 4.5 of his 6 years of racing and just want to make sure we build car right.
Why wouldn't you reach out to BT or other AE drivers with your questions? Or even...use the search feature in the upper right hand corner?
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:06 PM   #17903
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Why wouldn't you reach out to BT or other AE drivers with your questions? Or even...use the search feature in the upper right hand corner?
Sorry for asking!! We have talked to those guys. Just interesting to hear other guys ideas and tips. Won't bother anyone again.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:19 PM   #17904
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Sorry for asking!! We have talked to those guys. Just interesting to hear other guys ideas and tips. Won't bother anyone again.
I'm actually in the process of building one now. Honestly I'm just getting back into the hobby so I'm going to build it with the baseline set up and make tweaks as I see needed to fit my driving style. One thing I have been hearing through guys at the track as well as videos on you tube is that the preferred stock set up is a little different than what the manual calls for. The kit comes with 32.5 for the back and 30 for the front. I might go 30 all around to start but from what I've heard, 27.5 rear 30 front is popular.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:32 PM   #17905
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Hi guys, my son Tyler just signed with AE for 2016. Excited for the new change!! Any tips on car build? We've ran for TLR for 4.5 of his 6 years of racing and just want to make sure we build car right.
Put the optional 3mm x 8 set screws everywhere you can. (makes sense when you build it) C.A. glue in every suspension insert in every suspension component or it will be a sloppy mess in 2 weeks.

3mm X.5 shims on the rear hub to remove play on hinge-pin.

Install 2 red shock O-rings plus a 1 mm spacer on the outer shock shafts, on the inside of the spring cup to limit the chassis dragging on steep jump faces. It should have 1 mm of air gap between the bottom of the chassis plate and the table when you push down hard on the towers. Free the ball cups as needed, because there are a lot of poorly sized ball cups out there.

Keep a pen and paper close when you build to write down the part numbers of the missing kit parts. It's much faster than trying to remember after it's half built.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:40 PM   #17906
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Does anyone know if the servo spacer ring, the blue anodized ring, is really necessary? Does everyone run one on theirs? It's part 89009, but it seems difficult to source and other than Avid, no one else seems to offer a replacement.
Yes you need to use it, or get a aluminum servo horn. Seen two guys over the past couple weeks strip the plastic horn due to not using it.
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:29 PM   #17907
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Default losi horn

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Does anyone know if the servo spacer ring, the blue anodized ring, is really necessary? Does everyone run one on theirs? It's part 89009, but it seems difficult to source and other than Avid, no one else seems to offer a replacement.
the aluminum Losi horn has offset and works great on the B5 = no need for the spacer. hope that helps

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread-team_losi_racing_servo_horn_aluminum_25t.jpg
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:32 PM   #17908
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Put the optional 3mm x 8 set screws everywhere you can. (makes sense when you build it) C.A. glue in every suspension insert in every suspension component or it will be a sloppy mess in 2 weeks.

3mm X.5 shims on the rear hub to remove play on hinge-pin.

Install 2 red shock O-rings plus a 1 mm spacer on the outer shock shafts, on the inside of the spring cup to limit the chassis dragging on steep jump faces. It should have 1 mm of air gap between the bottom of the chassis plate and the table when you push down hard on the towers. Free the ball cups as needed, because there are a lot of poorly sized ball cups out there.

Keep a pen and paper close when you build to write down the part numbers of the missing kit parts. It's much faster than trying to remember after it's half built.

Thanks for your time!! I will keep these in mind building it.
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:40 PM   #17909
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yeah that price range on the Savox was what I was looking to spend. I just got this kit and got back into the hobby after many years away. Its a lot of money all up front for everything so if I don't need to spend 100 bucks on a servo, I'm cool with that. I do have a digital Hitech servo spare, but i'm thinking it might be too large. Is this Savox one a smaller size or does the B5M fit a standard sized one? I'll have to post the model later as I do not remember off hand.
the Savox 1257tg is the one you want - direct from Savox, is $60 shipped and they ship quick! I just posted about using the Losi horn as well - like it's made for this kit. 25T is what you want for a Savox servo. with the 1257tg, there is just enough space to "back and forth" the servo wire behind the servo and tuck in for a clean install. 1257 vs 1258 - the 1257 is faster, 1258 more torque.

The Losi horn is threaded standard - I just drilled the threads out a bit then tapped with a metric screw / 2mm - same size as the steering ball stud... or use a tap if you have it.

hope that helps.
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:44 PM   #17910
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I'm actually in the process of building one now. Honestly I'm just getting back into the hobby so I'm going to build it with the baseline set up and make tweaks as I see needed to fit my driving style. One thing I have been hearing through guys at the track as well as videos on you tube is that the preferred stock set up is a little different than what the manual calls for. The kit comes with 32.5 for the back and 30 for the front. I might go 30 all around to start but from what I've heard, 27.5 rear 30 front is popular.
Follow a pro's setup off petit that is similar (or from) your track. typical is acutally 5wt difference between front and rear with the heavier oil up front. 35/30 is pretty common on a dialed indoor track.
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