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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost

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01-29-2015, 08:24 PM

#17866

JDM_DOHC_SiR

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Socket

279.

No sure on the availability date. I just want the chassis.

Mid March

01-29-2015, 08:58 PM

#17867

Razathorn

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Geez AE. We have a factory team 17.5 car, but not a factory team mod car?

This new kit w/ 4 gear trans and VTS slipper and steel axles would be great for mod.

Guess you get this new kit and then buy the vts parts and 4 gear case and another idler gear. Meh.

01-29-2015, 08:58 PM

#17868

Micah123

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Loose Front End

Front end is loose. When checking camber, it changes per drop so can not set camber accurately. I need a list of parts to replace to tighten things up. Thanks

01-29-2015, 09:01 PM

#17869

Cpt.America

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Micah123

Front end is loose. When checking camber, it changes per drop so can not set camber accurately. I need a list of parts to replace to tighten things up. Thanks

Your battle will be futile. Come up with a system that will give you the same reading every time. Dropping onto the table will not.

01-29-2015, 09:20 PM

#17870

FNG RIDER

Tech Regular

Join Date: Dec 2011

Location: Torrance, CA

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I purchased my B5 last August. I finally took down to the track today, first time back on the track after 1 1/2 years. The RC10B5 is amazing, handles so neutral, fast, easy to jump, I absolutely love it. One of the best out of the box rc cars I have ever driven. That being said, my driving really sucks, just a little rusty.
I am planning on racing next Friday; )

01-29-2015, 09:20 PM

#17871

StadiumRC

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Join Date: Dec 2011

Location: Central California

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Question for you guys, how much play (if any) is acceptable in the top shaft - as far as in/out movement goes? My stock top shaft has a lot of play and I just replaced it with the MIP shaft. It's better than it was, but still has around .40 - .50mm of play in it. I don't remember my RM car having this issue. If shimming is required can someone recommend a set of shims? Thanks.

01-29-2015, 09:38 PM

#17872

sstriano

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I was programming my ESC tonight and had the rear wheels off... Testing the throttle, I noticed the slightest little "bump" in the rear dog-bone on the right side... I am talking very small, but the other side is perfect.

My question is are the dog-bones perfectly straight or do they have a tolerance to be slightly out?

When the RPM increases it seems like the "bump" goes away, and there and no vibrations or anything like that.

What are the risks of running a slightly bent one... I dont think it is bent, that is how minor it is, but it is not perfect like the other side.

Thanks!

01-29-2015, 09:43 PM

#17873

lbckevin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

sure give that one a shot. honestly, I am in the same boat as you. I have a d3.5, but cactus is coming up and I cant run it. I am seriously thinking about just getting a trackstar motor for cactus, lol. I have a reedy I want to try this weekend, but I know it is not as good as my d3.5.

Leigh,

You really need to give the Schuur Speed motors a try. Out here at OCRC , they are 9 out of 10 in the expert stock main. In our sportsman stock buggy class its another 15-20 out of 30 drivers as well. Its a great competitive ROAR legal motor.

01-29-2015, 09:46 PM

#17874

Cridd

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

the funny thing is... I have never heard of the plastic ones breaking. Personally, I would never buy the alum cranks for this car. I have some on my car, because i bought it used, but i use the plastic ones on the car I built. 1 year on the plastic ones with no issues.

I did have one issue, ball stud pulled out had to shoo goo until I replaced with another plastic one.

01-29-2015, 09:52 PM

#17875

xyzracer

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Quote:

Originally Posted by StadiumRC

I had to shim both my b5 and b5m. m was so bad the rear slipper plate was rubbing. don't know what shims I used, just had some in the box. both using associated aluminum top shafts

01-29-2015, 09:57 PM

#17876

lbckevin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

So I assume you guys did a lot of stock testing and the 3 gear is the defacto stock upgrade.

I watched Sean C. from Associated test the new milled chassis for awhile and its been real good. He has tested the 3 gear transmission for a couple months and its super smooth and real tight tolerances. Sean has let the expert stock drivers try his buggy and test it and give feedback and its all been great news for the OCRC track.

01-29-2015, 10:21 PM

#17877

Skeeter36

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I'm do for a new kit anyways so perfect timing.

01-29-2015, 10:25 PM

#17878

RCBuddha

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Sorry I'm late with these...

http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/jconcep...ng-bellcranks/

Quote:

JConcepts has the steering system on the B5, B5M and T5M covered with an all new light-weight, aluminium steering bellcrank assembly. The servo saver-less aluminium steering system is CNC-machined and replaces the stock plastic bellcranks to provide a more rigid assembly for increased steering feel and response. Furthermore the fit of the new bell-cranks has been improved by the positioning of the bearings to help eliminate binding when assembled. The parts come in a blue or black anodised finish and sport machined chamfered silver edges and engraved JC logos. The steering bell-cranks also include two thin crush tubes which should be placed in between the bearings on the stock plastic or aftermarket aluminium steering rack.