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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 03-08-2014, 10:06 AM   #1771
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I took it apart several times, flipped the rings, no dice. Notchy. I've built ball diff's many times. Never had this problem. I'm guessing one or more of the balls are defective.
My b5r built the diff all stock parts. only a 17.5 car. I had a notch after a few runs. ceramic diff balls will fix this for shure. B5m is geting them!! wonder when we will see the ae black balls with 14 balls..
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Last edited by Double Dee; 03-08-2014 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:00 AM   #1772
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My b5r built the diff all stock parts. only a 17.5 car. I had a notch after a few runs. ceramic diff balls will fix this for shure. B5m is geting them!! wonder when we will see the ae black balls with 14 balls..
Already hanging on the wall, 14 count black Ae ceramic...
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:15 AM   #1773
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Soooo... did I make a mistake by using the kit setup but with 35 oil front & 30 rear ? The rear of my car was loose. I was able to still maintain and drive it well, but couldn't get on the throttle the way I wanted to on corner exits. I can tell the car has the potential to be amazing once I get the rear planted. I tried 2 sets of rear tires, so I don't think it was that. Same track, same time, I drove my buddy's Serpent mid-motor 2wd, and his car was more planted.
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:27 AM   #1774
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I remember on my SC10 with a bunch of over steer out of the corners I was able to tune most of it out by laying all the shocks down. Then I was able to power out of the corners more instead of having to baby it so much. I thought I also heard someone mention in this thread about putting all the tops of the shocks in the inner holes to give more rear grip? So maybe laying down your shocks more will help?
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:29 AM   #1775
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It wasn't understeering... the rear wanted to slide out / around, not in a good way.
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:31 AM   #1776
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Sorry, I got it backwards. Under steer is when the car is pushing, oversteer is where the rear is kicking out. Sorry, my original post is edited. I just get the terms mixed up but still meant the same thing. My tail was kicking out as well out of corners like your car. But laying the shocks down gave the rear more grip.
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:43 AM   #1777
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Just picked up the b5m, What motor should I get? First car since 2001. 17.5T looks slow, I might prefer modified buggy class. Do I choose 13.5, 10.5, 9.5? What are other guys running? Looking at Reedy Sonic, I will be driving the car at 702 Race Way in Vegas. Thoughts and opinions appreciated! I am starting from scratch just getting back into the hobby, Tax return well spent.
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Old 03-08-2014, 12:58 PM   #1778
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Then you suck at building diffs because something like 10,000 B4 and B5 diffs haven't had your issue. Sheesh.
Yeah, I must suck. It must have been dumb luck all the other times I've built and rebuilt a ball diff. I clearly made the diff have a notch in every surface of the thrust and gear rings and crushed a harden steel ball with a 2mm wrench without even compressing the spring. My bad.

We'll see how it is after my break-in.
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Old 03-08-2014, 01:30 PM   #1779
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nvm, found it.
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Old 03-08-2014, 03:51 PM   #1780
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if your rings are notching your running your diff to tight.. first make sure you pre compress your spring, you don't have to crush it.. then when your tightening the screw go slow just till you feel the difference when it bottoms, then back it off 1/8th of a turn.. should turn smooth.

on loose rear of car?? need more info on setup... but mine has tons of traction and steering... here are some ideas.. where is your battery? shorty or square or side by?
ride height? camber? toe? wheelbase? I run my hubs forward almost all the time..

also springs and pistons and oil? I run 1.6 front and back .. 35 front, 30 back, white front, green back, arms level front, bones level back and car feels dialed.
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:00 PM   #1781
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if your rings are notching your running your diff to tight.. first make sure you pre compress your spring, you don't have to crush it.. then when your tightening the screw go slow just till you feel the difference when it bottoms, then back it off 1/8th of a turn.. should turn smooth.

on loose rear of car?? need more info on setup... but mine has tons of traction and steering... here are some ideas.. where is your battery? shorty or square or side by?
ride height? camber? toe? wheelbase? I run my hubs forward almost all the time..

also springs and pistons and oil? I run 1.6 front and back .. 35 front, 30 back, white front, green back, arms level front, bones level back and car feels dialed.
Where do you run your battery?
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:16 PM   #1782
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Already hanging on the wall, 14 count black Ae ceramic...
cool ill come get some. titanic Tue. Thanks Geo. And x rings?
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Old 03-08-2014, 04:47 PM   #1783
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Originally Posted by rickster View Post
on loose rear of car?? need more info on setup... but mine has tons of traction and steering... here are some ideas.. where is your battery? shorty or square or side by?
ride height? camber? toe? wheelbase? I run my hubs forward almost all the time..

also springs and pistons and oil? I run 1.6 front and back .. 35 front, 30 back, white front, green back, arms level front, bones level back and car feels dialed.
Thought I provided this info right in my initial post.

"Soooo... did I make a mistake by using the kit setup but with 35 oil front & 30 rear ?"

So I am running exact kit setup... all of it, down to ride height, camber, hub spacing, etc. The exception being, 35 front oil, 30 rear. I am running a shorty pack pushed back fully.

A friend of mine who knows how to tune cars also suggested going to 1.6 pistons in the back. Don't get me wrong. The car wasn't bad. But I had to baby it and be careful with it too much on corner exits.

I've checked in with some other local friends today, and it sounds like folks running exact kit setup with 32.5 oil front & back are saying it's quite good. So perhaps I just went to aggressive up font and opposite out back. I'm going to go through my car this weekend to check up on everything after a few full practice days. I'll change out oils and see if I'm happier when back at the track next week. I hadn't run at OCRC in about a year, and got a chance to speak to Steven Hartson about the car. He did say the car is much more sensitive to setup changes than the B5r, so perhaps I ventured too far apart with oils and no spring changes to suit.

Thanks,
Jesse
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:47 PM   #1784
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Yeah, I must suck. It must have been dumb luck all the other times I've built and rebuilt a ball diff. I clearly made the diff have a notch in every surface of the thrust and gear rings and crushed a harden steel ball with a 2mm wrench without even compressing the spring. My bad.

We'll see how it is after my break-in.
personally just spin a wheel at slow speed for a minute and readjust.

check right after first pack to see if it needs to be tighten.

Adjust so you cannot spin wheel with out turning the pinion & motor or kinda tight ..
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:51 PM   #1785
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cool ill come get some. titanic Tue. Thanks Geo. And x rings?
in stock..$15

You don't need until a week or so.
Red rings are good..
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