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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:11 AM   #17596
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That makes sense but it seem like even though the spur gear doesn't effect the driving as much I find it hard to believe that all its for is a mm or 2mm of motor placement so can someone please elaborate more and the difference between a 69 tooth and a 72 tooth spur gear
As others have posted, in general a 1 tooth change on the spur is a much smaller change than a pinion gear and 3 teeth on the spur about equal a 1 tooth change on the pinion gear. If we had smaller increments in spur gears to choose from we could fine tune gearing even further.

In some cases you may have a gear ratio you can't get to with a specific size spur gear, for example the smallest pinion you can typically get on with a 69 tooth spur is a 29 tooth pinion, so you would need to go to a 72 with a 30 tooth pinion in order to get a similar gear ratio. If you wanted to run a 69/28 ratio because the 29 is too much gearů you would have to change spur gears in order to get the next step down in ratio.

I do personally use the size of the spur gear as a tuning aid, for example when I run on a low grip track I will run a 78/21 with my mod motor. This moves the motor back just a little bit giving me a little more rear weight bias. If I go to a higher grip track I will run a 81/22 moving the motor forward for more steering and less rear weight bias.

I understand this does not seem like a big change but the motor is the second heaviest component in your chassis so moving it just a few mm does have a change in handling of the chassis.

Hope this helps a little bit.

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Old 01-04-2016, 07:25 AM   #17597
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There seems to be a lot of problems with tight ball cups. I have built a B5, B5M and a T5M. All had really tight ball cups. I put the ball in a dremel and put a dab of oil in it. Then spun the ball in the cup. Takes a few minutes to loosen. Messed a few up by using to fast of a speed, melted the cup.

What way do you use?
Snap the ballcup on backwards with the small opening towards the ball stud. This will stretch the cup slightly and will be perfect.
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:44 AM   #17598
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I bought a Associated Aluminum ball stud Rear mount and it has a plus 2mm and - 2mm I know its for Rear roll center so for Meduim traction clay should I use plus 2mm or -2mm for that traction ?




Anybody know ?
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:50 AM   #17599
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Anybody know ?
Running it +2 will give you less rear traction in the corners than running it -2. So try one way, if you don't like it, flip the bar.
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:53 AM   #17600
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Anybody know ?
The book on the Lite says to run it -2 with 3mm of spacers on the inner ball stud. What I've seen a lot of people do is run it in the +2 position w/no spacer. I guess it depends on where you need your roll center.
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Old 01-04-2016, 07:59 AM   #17601
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The book on the Lite says to run it -2 with 3mm of spacers on the inner ball stud. What I've seen a lot of people do is run it in the +2 position w/no spacer. I guess it depends on where you need your roll center.
Higher is lower rolcenter on the brace, so lowgrip general you want higher rolcenter. So lower on the brace.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:00 AM   #17602
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Snap the ballcup on backwards with the small opening towards the ball stud. This will stretch the cup slightly and will be perfect.
Thanks! Will give that a shot next time! What about this reamer? I like that idea.
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Old 01-04-2016, 08:47 AM   #17603
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Thanks! Will give that a shot next time! What about this reamer? I like that idea.
Never tried the reamer. When you snap it on backwards to stretch, take back off and snap on correct way. forgot to mention that earlier.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:35 AM   #17604
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Finally made it through the descision, lets go get a B5M
Is NOW a good time for a buy? Could wait 1-2 months if possibly anything cool is going to happen at AE
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:42 AM   #17605
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Finally made it through the descision, lets go get a B5M
Is NOW a good time for a buy? Could wait 1-2 months if possibly anything cool is going to happen at AE
If 1-2 months, I would buy now. If 3+ months, maybe wait. AE normally does update on a 12 month cycle, "If they plan to do one". That would me an updated buggy "could" come out in 3-5 months. If they even update the Lite kit. IMO it would just be option parts, as I hear AE has no desire to make a lay down tranny.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:12 AM   #17606
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If 1-2 months, I would buy now. If 3+ months, maybe wait. AE normally does update on a 12 month cycle, "If they plan to do one". That would me an updated buggy "could" come out in 3-5 months. If they even update the Lite kit. IMO it would just be option parts, as I hear AE has no desire to make a lay down tranny.
I think a full FT version would be next with extra mounting holes for a possible lay-down transmission offered separately.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:14 AM   #17607
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I think a full FT version would be next with extra mounting holes for a possible lay-down transmission offered separately.
But that would cost a few extra bucks compared to the FL? I dont wanna spend as much as possible, just as much as I need to
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:14 AM   #17608
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I think a full FT version would be next with extra mounting holes for a possible lay-down transmission offered separately.
While I would love to see an AE laydown (even though I just spent $$$ on one ), I have a friend who runs for AE that was told by an AE engineer that its "not gonna happen".
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:17 AM   #17609
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I think a full FT version would be next with extra mounting holes for a possible lay-down transmission offered separately.
Locally, many "fast" guys are going to the laydown tranny from Lind Andres (or something). When I asked around, I was told AE has NO current plans for a laydown tranny.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:18 AM   #17610
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Locally, many "fast" guys are going to the laydown tranny from Lind Andres (or something). When I asked around, I was told AE has NO current plans for a laydown tranny.
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