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Old 12-31-2015, 07:31 AM   #17476
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I have the Rear arms on my B5M with the left on left and right on right is that right ? Hearing the Rear arms the left on right and right on left was making me wonder .
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:38 AM   #17477
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I have the Rear arms on my B5M with the left on left and right on right is that right ? Hearing the Rear arms the left on right and right on left was making me wonder .
No, they should be left on right and right on left. At least that is the way it says to do it in the B5mFL manual.

Wait, are they B5m arms or B5 arms? There is a difference. B5m arms would be left on left and right on right.
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:49 AM   #17478
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Originally Posted by hyperdive08 View Post
I have a few very fast cars at our local carpet,high bite racetrack.

Here is the issue, they are using high wt. Diff fluid. 125000 for example. This defies all that I know about cornering. These cars are very fast rotating through the turns.. Anybody else know of good reasons why to use such wt. Fluids ?

Lots of 180's and short straights
I am currently using 3000wt.
If there are lots of tight 180s, and lots of traction (carpet), it may be helping keep the rear from diff'ing out. When the vehicle rolls to the outside, the inside wheel unloads or in some cases lifts. With less torque holding the open (inside) wheel, the outside ends up with less torque and less punch out of the corner. Heavy oil just adds internal friction, and keeps the inside wheel from running away. I would couple the change with a high rear roll center to get the rear to rotate. Be careful, as this can open up to more traction rolls. Especially with low ride heights.

The interesting question is: can you get to the same "fast" setup by substituting a rear sway bar and using a ball diff or light oil?
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:51 AM   #17479
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I just bought a B5m lite and I'm having trouble with the front arms binding. It seems to be both upper turnbuckles and I have no idea why they would be doing it. Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:57 AM   #17480
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b5m needs more rear traction and is a little bouncy in rear?

Took the b5m out today on a mid traction track, running a 4 gear trans.
track is rutted
1.6 shock piston in front, 25w, white spring
1.7 shock piston in rear, 25w, white spring
3 rear toe and 1 degree anti squat
hole shot rear tires

buggy ran pretty good , but theres still a good amount of tuning I need to do. Seeing how it drove I am thinking going down to the next lower spring rate in the rear?
Is there a way to run zero anti squat in the rear with the stock set up?
I run greens all around, with 1.7s and 30/35 R/F oil on similar conditions. Check out the Ray Munday B5M setup sheet for "Bumpy" conditions for many other good tips!
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:59 AM   #17481
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I just bought a B5m lite and I'm having trouble with the front arms binding. It seems to be both upper turnbuckles and I have no idea why they would be doing it. Anyone else have this problem?
Theyve had well known problems with the ball cups being tight. Call Ae and they should ship new ones, or put them on upside down a few times to get them to stretch. Google it and theres a few youtube vids about it and how to fix it.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:25 AM   #17482
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I just got my B5m (not the light) coming from a C4.1. What are the most essential must-have upgrades and mods? Are there any parts that carry over from the B4?
Sell it and buy a Lite.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:27 AM   #17483
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I have the Rear arms on my B5M with the left on left and right on right is that right ? Hearing the Rear arms the left on right and right on left was making me wonder .
Which b5m? The Lite, the CE, or the Team kit?

The Lite and CE both with Rear motor rear arms, these must be ran backwards to the markings. L on R, and R on L.

If it's a team kit, then L on L, then r on r.

Or, you could read your manual, or the first page of this thread.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:40 AM   #17484
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Which b5m? The Lite, the CE, or the Team kit?

The Lite and CE both with Rear motor rear arms, these must be ran backwards to the markings. L on R, and R on L.

If it's a team kit, then L on L, then r on r.

Or, you could read your manual, or the first page of this thread.
CE comes with MM arms.
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Old 12-31-2015, 08:59 AM   #17485
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CE comes with MM arms.
Thanks for the clarification!
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:02 AM   #17486
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Question for the guys running with taped in batteries. I'm just getting ready to run 2wd buggy for the first time. My history is mostly nitro and 4wd sct. I'm trying to understand how you only run 1 battery. I'm thinking if I only ran one pack. It would take a long time between runs on practice nights. Where previously I've always had 3 and rotated them.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:06 AM   #17487
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Originally Posted by Jon Carlson View Post
I run my B5mFL on outdoor loamy tracks. It's really all about the tires. I had both kits, B5 and B5mFL, at the track. The B5 had a slight rear bite advantage but the B5mFL was just so smooth and easy to drive. The B5 breaks loose more violently. I don't think you'd be disappointed with the B5m conversion. I would keep the tower and arms from the B5 though. Use the rear arms too, just put the L arm on the R of the car and vice versa.
Thanks for your reply. I think the Conversion it is, another advantage I missed: I have the SC5M too, so there would be lots and lots more parts which can be used for both cars.
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Old 12-31-2015, 09:59 AM   #17488
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Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
Question for the guys running with taped in batteries. I'm just getting ready to run 2wd buggy for the first time. My history is mostly nitro and 4wd sct. I'm trying to understand how you only run 1 battery. I'm thinking if I only ran one pack. It would take a long time between runs on practice nights. Where previously I've always had 3 and rotated them.
I think after a 10 minute practice run I can recharge in 15 minutes which is about the right time to do a quick inspection and clean tires. Add in BSing with the guys and I have 30 to 45 minutes between my runs lol. plenty of time
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:23 AM   #17489
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Originally Posted by mick33b4 View Post
If there are lots of tight 180s, and lots of traction (carpet), it may be helping keep the rear from diff'ing out. When the vehicle rolls to the outside, the inside wheel unloads or in some cases lifts. With less torque holding the open (inside) wheel, the outside ends up with less torque and less punch out of the corner. Heavy oil just adds internal friction, and keeps the inside wheel from running away. I would couple the change with a high rear roll center to get the rear to rotate. Be careful, as this can open up to more traction rolls. Especially with low ride heights.

The interesting question is: can you get to the same "fast" setup by substituting a rear sway bar and using a ball diff or light oil?
i use ball diff and 27.5-32.5 weight oil with rear swaybar on my b5m on indoor high bite carpet track and it works awesome, thought about a gear diff but never tried it
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Old 12-31-2015, 10:36 AM   #17490
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Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
Question for the guys running with taped in batteries. I'm just getting ready to run 2wd buggy for the first time. My history is mostly nitro and 4wd sct. I'm trying to understand how you only run 1 battery. I'm thinking if I only ran one pack. It would take a long time between runs on practice nights. Where previously I've always had 3 and rotated them.
I use to do the same thing with multiple batteries but now that its pretty standard to charge at 20-40 amps you can charge a shorty pack in 5-10 minutes with no issues. I went from having 20 lipos a few years ago to only having 1 per car now. You just need to buy a good charger and then having 1 pack becomes a non-issue.
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