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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:17 PM   #17461
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Get home from work and my painter drooped my bodies off! Already to go for the new year!! New cars, New scheme, New year... Cant wait
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:57 PM   #17462
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I have a few very fast cars at our local carpet,high bite racetrack.

Here is the issue, they are using high wt. Diff fluid. 125000 for example. This defies all that I know about cornering. These cars are very fast rotating through the turns.. Anybody else know of good reasons why to use such wt. Fluids ?

Lots of 180's and short straights
I am currently using 3000wt.
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Old 12-29-2015, 10:41 PM   #17463
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm View Post
I am looking at ordering a b5m factory lite from tower hobbies this week and im looking for suggestions on what else I should be picking up with the kit. I am going to be running 17.5 blinky on hard packed clay that has decent tractions, slightly damp. So far I threw the aluminum shock caps in the kit and I am not certain what other things may be needed. Hard arms? different wings? A suggestion for a reasonably priced battery?

I have a gift card to my local track but they don't have the kit in stock so I will be buying my esc, motor, and additional batteries from them. Just looking what I might need from tower so I wont have to place a second order. Sorry for the newb question, I haven't been into rc for almost 10 years when I had my xray t2, so offroad buggies are new to me!! Thanks!
I agree with what the others have said as well, out of the box both kits are pretty solid.

I'd recommend picking up the hinge pin set screws https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...ws_3x0_5x8_mm/ to take the play out of the suspension and tight things up a bit. Also make sure to CA glue in the steering block inserts to tighten up the front end play.

If you have money burning a hole in your pocket and insist on upgrades you could always get some aluminum bits like the steering bellcranks, rear C and D arm mounts, rear hubs and even the front hinge pin brace and/or front bulkhead. Titanium screw kit will lighten things up a bit as well.

I personally have bought both the FL and CE kits. The FL kit seems to be the ticket by far for 17.5 racing (I used mine for 17.5) if you are looking to shed some weight. The CE kit was nice with the Kashima shocks etc. but in reality I don't find myself needing the 4 gear transmission and unless I ever find myself in a super high bite situation some of the other tuning options (gullwing arms, etc.) will likely go unused as well.

Just some food for thought but honestly you cannot go wrong with either kit. Good luck!
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Old 12-30-2015, 01:18 AM   #17464
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Anyone know off hand if any other manufacturers spring cups with a taller inner spring perch fit the b5/m and retain similar off set and sit snug on the eyelet?
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Try zip tie the spring to the cup. This helps with the spring popping of the cup a lot. When do you race? I dont think I have seen you at srs
Oh, I don't race anymore, just a practice day champ, lol.

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jstump, onefast8 is talking about the springs popping over the inner lip of the spring cups. He isn't asking which one of the 3 supplied cups to use. Get it now??
Thanks for clearing it up Racer

FWIW - If anyone is interested in a taller spring retainer cup the Losi eyelets and cups go right on (TLR5095) the AE shafts and retain the same geometry (from what I can tell, I'm no rocket-artist). I added a washer on the bottom shock screw between the eyelet and the arm because the Losi eyelet bushing is not flanged and I wanted a little more room. Problem solved!
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Old 12-30-2015, 10:53 AM   #17465
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Has anyone tried the 28 ball diff mod?
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Old 12-30-2015, 11:36 AM   #17466
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Just got back from my first indoor carpet session with my B5. Broke the damn chassis. Thats why I am thinking of getting the B5 to B5m Conversion Kit.

I mostly run on a local clay track. I can't tell if the grip is medium / low / high, due to it's completely dependend to the weather.
We had 4 weeks sunshine, the clay dusty like hell. Then it rains every vew days and the clay stays wet constantly, you have super nice grip.

So I dont know If the upgrade to the B5m would be a good idea (I would repair my chassis of the B5 with the B5m to B5 kit, because it costs just 10€ more, but has damn lot more parts included).

Any suggestions?
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Old 12-30-2015, 12:42 PM   #17467
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Putting together a b5m ce kit. Is the kit supposed to have enough factory team 5x10 bearings to build in 4 gear configuration? I'm two bearings short....enough for the 2nd idler gear.... If not, that's ridiculous....
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Old 12-30-2015, 01:01 PM   #17468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperdive08 View Post
I have a few very fast cars at our local carpet,high bite racetrack.

Here is the issue, they are using high wt. Diff fluid. 125000 for example. This defies all that I know about cornering. These cars are very fast rotating through the turns.. Anybody else know of good reasons why to use such wt. Fluids ?

Lots of 180's and short straights
I am currently using 3000wt.
Wow, 125k in a rear diff.
That sounds more like a 4wd center diff. That I could see on high bite carpet.

Our track is high bite carpet to and I think most of the fast guys are running 3k-4k in the rear diff.
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Old 12-30-2015, 03:43 PM   #17469
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b5m needs more rear traction and is a little bouncy in rear?

Took the b5m out today on a mid traction track, running a 4 gear trans.
track is rutted
1.6 shock piston in front, 25w, white spring
1.7 shock piston in rear, 25w, white spring
3 rear toe and 1 degree anti squat
hole shot rear tires

buggy ran pretty good , but theres still a good amount of tuning I need to do. Seeing how it drove I am thinking going down to the next lower spring rate in the rear?
Is there a way to run zero anti squat in the rear with the stock set up?

Last edited by a1; 12-30-2015 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:04 PM   #17470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS52 View Post
Putting together a b5m ce kit. Is the kit supposed to have enough factory team 5x10 bearings to build in 4 gear configuration? I'm two bearings short....enough for the 2nd idler gear.... If not, that's ridiculous....
It tells you where to use the Factory Team bearings and the regular black-sealed bearings. I believe the non-exposed top shaft bearing and maybe the idler bearings are not Factory Team bearings. Not a biggie really, they could have given us just enough to make the kit but instead they gave us nearly an entire bearing kit worth of spares.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:28 PM   #17471
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Pinebox,
Yeah, that's normally the case.
I run between 3-5 if I didn't see it with my eyes, I'd call bull.

These cars consistently win stock and mod.

Last edited by hyperdive08; 12-30-2015 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:36 PM   #17472
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Should have all the bearings you need for both trannys I thought? Mine came with enough for both configurations
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Old 12-31-2015, 03:47 AM   #17473
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I just got my B5m (not the light) coming from a C4.1. What are the most essential must-have upgrades and mods? Are there any parts that carry over from the B4?
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:01 AM   #17474
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Originally Posted by Cody227 View Post
I just got my B5m (not the light) coming from a C4.1. What are the most essential must-have upgrades and mods? Are there any parts that carry over from the B4?
The aluminum rear ball stud mount from AE, or someone else, is an important upgrade. Then just have spares, arms, shock towers. I like my lite with the flat front arms and tower and B5 rear arms. I also have the setscrews in both front and rear hubs. Glue the inserts into the front steering block as well. It is a very solid car.

After that, upgrade as your budget allows...
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Old 12-31-2015, 07:10 AM   #17475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Just got back from my first indoor carpet session with my B5. Broke the damn chassis. Thats why I am thinking of getting the B5 to B5m Conversion Kit.

I mostly run on a local clay track. I can't tell if the grip is medium / low / high, due to it's completely dependend to the weather.
We had 4 weeks sunshine, the clay dusty like hell. Then it rains every vew days and the clay stays wet constantly, you have super nice grip.

So I dont know If the upgrade to the B5m would be a good idea (I would repair my chassis of the B5 with the B5m to B5 kit, because it costs just 10€ more, but has damn lot more parts included).

Any suggestions?
I run my B5mFL on outdoor loamy tracks. It's really all about the tires. I had both kits, B5 and B5mFL, at the track. The B5 had a slight rear bite advantage but the B5mFL was just so smooth and easy to drive. The B5 breaks loose more violently. I don't think you'd be disappointed with the B5m conversion. I would keep the tower and arms from the B5 though. Use the rear arms too, just put the L arm on the R of the car and vice versa.
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