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Old 12-26-2015, 11:28 AM   #17416
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Link to bushings available from Schelle. Lightweight aluminum and come with standard and offset. Read explanation below on what axle up/down does.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...ng-Set-SCH1087
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Clear now!
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Old 12-26-2015, 02:25 PM   #17417
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Actually reread what you were specifically asking...

Muck has the correct information in his post above. Most of the set up sheets I've seen use "back row / inside" and 3mm of spacers.

That set up should look something like my attachment.
Ya that's what I was asking. I happen to have a setup sheet that says 2 mm under ball stud. Then says +3 in the inner link stud section. So I just wanted to know if that is a common adjustment. Thanks for your help.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:02 PM   #17418
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My son was building is brand new factory light he got for Christmas and ran into a problem with one of the rear axle and heavy duty cvd drives. One side went together ok a little of bind. The other side he couldn't get assembled. I used some pliers and got the cv joint assembled but it is bound up were it could not be used. I tried to take a scotch Brite to try and free it up but no use it must of been machined wrong. Any one else experienced this problem.
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Old 12-26-2015, 03:30 PM   #17419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fantomdude View Post
My son was building is brand new factory light he got for Christmas and ran into a problem with one of the rear axle and heavy duty cvd drives. One side went together ok a little of bind. The other side he couldn't get assembled. I used some pliers and got the cv joint assembled but it is bound up were it could not be used. I tried to take a scotch Brite to try and free it up but no use it must of been machined wrong. Any one else experienced this problem.
I've recently built a B5M Factory Lite and a CE, also a SC5M and a T5M, yes, I have a problem and I haven't had any issues with the CVA at all. Is the problem with the CVA bone, axle, or the coupler? A picture of your issue might help as well.

The only drivetrain assembly issue I ran into with the Factory Lite was the bearing race on the ball diff outdrive needed to be polished quite a bit as the bearing was way too tight and wouldn't slide down the shaft.
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:11 PM   #17420
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Originally Posted by fantomdude View Post
My son was building is brand new factory light he got for Christmas and ran into a problem with one of the rear axle and heavy duty cvd drives. One side went together ok a little of bind. The other side he couldn't get assembled. I used some pliers and got the cv joint assembled but it is bound up were it could not be used. I tried to take a scotch Brite to try and free it up but no use it must of been machined wrong. Any one else experienced this problem.
I once assembled a diff with the screw head on the wrong outdrive half and it not only was too tight on one of the pieces, but it also made one of the cvd's too long and the the other too short when assembled with the adjuster on the same side as the manual.
If I remember correctly, one side is both 1 mm larger diameter and 3 mm deeper.
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:41 PM   #17421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fantomdude View Post
My son was building is brand new factory light he got for Christmas and ran into a problem with one of the rear axle and heavy duty cvd drives. One side went together ok a little of bind. The other side he couldn't get assembled. I used some pliers and got the cv joint assembled but it is bound up were it could not be used. I tried to take a scotch Brite to try and free it up but no use it must of been machined wrong. Any one else experienced this problem.
I had this issue too and recall a couple others posting about it. Call AE for replacement parts.
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:42 PM   #17422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fantomdude View Post
My son was building is brand new factory light he got for Christmas and ran into a problem with one of the rear axle and heavy duty cvd drives. One side went together ok a little of bind. The other side he couldn't get assembled. I used some pliers and got the cv joint assembled but it is bound up were it could not be used. I tried to take a scotch Brite to try and free it up but no use it must of been machined wrong. Any one else experienced this problem.
I had the same exact issue with my b5m lite. The CVA drive wasn't machined deep enough for the axle to rotate freely inside it. I took a 5/16" drill bit (I think that was the size) and just drilled it alittle deeper. Solved the issue and everything freed right up
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:28 PM   #17423
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I had the same exact issue with my b5m lite. The CVA drive wasn't machined deep enough for the axle to rotate freely inside it. I took a 5/16" drill bit (I think that was the size) and just drilled it alittle deeper. Solved the issue and everything freed right up
I'll try the same thing. Thanks

My fix was just use the axles out of his old b5. Tell I could contact ae. I did notice that the original b5 axles the holes that the cross pin go in on the axle that connect the bone to the axle are drilled more twords the edge then the new HD drives.
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Old 12-27-2015, 07:52 PM   #17424
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Does anyone know if a 30mm fan waterfall will work with a jconcepts warrior body?
Can confirm it won't fit. Painted a warrior body for a buddy of mine who runs the waterfall fan mount and it won't clear the body. He ended up not running a fan.
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Old 12-27-2015, 11:10 PM   #17425
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Have you thought about trying the trinity fan? It's not a waterfall and blows the air over the endbell. But it's still better than no fan.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:13 AM   #17426
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I have to use the finisher body for my waterfall fan and mount.

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Originally Posted by leskai View Post
Can confirm it won't fit. Painted a warrior body for a buddy of mine who runs the waterfall fan mount and it won't clear the body. He ended up not running a fan.
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:08 PM   #17427
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Has anyone tried the lcg tranny on high bite clay tracks?
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:36 PM   #17428
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Anyone know off hand if any other manufacturers spring cups with a taller inner spring perch fit the b5/m and retain similar off set and sit snug on the eyelet?

The Losi (22) are close but don't fit snug on the AE eyelet
The Avid (that say the perch is taller) is the same height
Yokomo YZ-2 look close??
Koyosho (Rb6) and Serpent (whatever that2wd buggy is called) have a very small inner perch.

Seems like every time I get bumped in the rear (gigity!), it knocks my spring on top of the cup. Yes, I'm running the right cups and I'm running standard droop; 1 shim in the rear.
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:48 PM   #17429
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
Anyone know off hand if any other manufacturers spring cups with a taller inner spring perch fit the b5/m and retain similar off set and sit snug on the eyelet?

The Losi (22) are close but don't fit snug on the AE eyelet
The Avid (that say the perch is taller) is the same height
Yokomo YZ-2 look close??
Koyosho (Rb6) and Serpent (whatever that2wd buggy is called) have a very small inner perch.

Seems like every time I get bumped in the rear (gigity!), it knocks my spring on top of the cup. Yes, I'm running the right cups and I'm running standard droop; 1 shim in the rear.
Try zip tie the spring to the cup. This helps with the spring popping of the cup a lot. When do you race? I dont think I have seen you at srs
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Old 12-28-2015, 12:51 PM   #17430
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Not sure about perch height, but the blue aluminum ones from Tamiya or TRF fit on the B5 just fine. Never had any issues with springs popping off.
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