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Old 03-07-2014, 02:35 PM   #1726
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Once will suffice
its like 2 condoms. It cant hurt
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:36 PM   #1727
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its like 2 condoms. It cant hurt
It's nothing like that
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:37 PM   #1728
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lol, When I had issues with my 22 nuts falling off, this worked for me. To each their own. I like a little build up on the treads.
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:39 PM   #1729
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lol, When I had issues with my 22 nuts falling off, this worked for me. To each their own. I like a little build up on the treads.
That was something you were constantly taking on/off. This is something you screw in and leave it unless your making a tuning change. Just use good loctite and dont smother the screw in it and you will be fine.
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Old 03-07-2014, 02:44 PM   #1730
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That was something you were constantly taking on/off. This is something you screw in and leave it unless your making a tuning change. Just use good loctite and dont smother the screw in it and you will be fine.
Good point Matt. They did get removed a lot more. Honestly, aside from those 22 nuts, I probably only use one coat and then reapply a dab if i need to remove and reinsert the screw. I.e. replacing bearings. I think those tlr nut just have me paranoid, lol. I hate loosing races to my wheels falling off
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Old 03-07-2014, 03:55 PM   #1731
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Couple other tips for you. These are just from my build experience:

1. The gear box screws that fasten the halves together are a very tight and I am in no way complaining about that lol. I took a spare screw and ran it through several times on each hole and then used the kit screw to bolt it all up. Allowed me to tighten them down and get a good feel of when they bottom out. To tight and it will get the gearbox to bind up a smidge

2. Shim the top shaft. Putting it all together I had quite a bit of side play once the halves were together.

3. I used Losi 22 12mm shock bladders in my shock build instead of going with the kit emulsion build. Shocks are suuuppper smooth and do not "aerate" at all. Plus side is you can tune rebound by installing the shock cap plug screw. Pull the shaft out all the way and install the screw= high rebound. Push it in half way and install the screw= less rebound.

4. Put X-rings in the shocks. Built them with and without. I definitely like them with.

5. Polish the shock shafts. I used blue magic and chucked them in a dremel.

6. The FT B4 Ti Turbuckles actually threaded easier into the ball cups than the stock steel ones. Not as fancy as the JC ones or the Lunsford but they get the job done.

7. Shim the rear arms. They will have a bit of front to back play.

8. Install the "optional setscrews" in the front caster block and the rear hubs. only took a few days for them to loosen up a but.



As far as changes for me to the setup this is all I have done and love the way it is working:

1. Removed the shims under the rear inner camber ballstuds
2. Moved the shocks all the way to the inside hole on the tops (f&r)
3. Still running 1.6 front & 1.7 rear but changed the rear oil to 27.5
4. Battery all the way to the rear (shorty)


Anywho here she is all painted up and ready for track duty. WOOT!


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Old 03-07-2014, 04:13 PM   #1732
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Hey !

I got .5 m ceramic balls that clank when ever I walk onto the drivers stand.

Need um to post here.

no typo lol

this is top quote for this thread right now!. hard to beat this.
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Old 03-07-2014, 04:55 PM   #1733
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Originally Posted by mugenhatchie View Post
Couple other tips for you. These are just from my build experience:

1. The gear box screws that fasten the halves together are a very tight and I am in no way complaining about that lol. I took a spare screw and ran it through several times on each hole and then used the kit screw to bolt it all up. Allowed me to tighten them down and get a good feel of when they bottom out. To tight and it will get the gearbox to bind up a smidge

2. Shim the top shaft. Putting it all together I had quite a bit of side play once the halves were together.

3. I used Losi 22 12mm shock bladders in my shock build instead of going with the kit emulsion build. Shocks are suuuppper smooth and do not "aerate" at all. Plus side is you can tune rebound by installing the shock cap plug screw. Pull the shaft out all the way and install the screw= high rebound. Push it in half way and install the screw= less rebound.

4. Put X-rings in the shocks. Built them with and without. I definitely like them with.

5. Polish the shock shafts. I used blue magic and chucked them in a dremel.

6. The FT B4 Ti Turbuckles actually threaded easier into the ball cups than the stock steel ones. Not as fancy as the JC ones or the Lunsford but they get the job done.

7. Shim the rear arms. They will have a bit of front to back play.

8. Install the "optional setscrews" in the front caster block and the rear hubs. only took a few days for them to loosen up a but.



As far as changes for me to the setup this is all I have done and love the way it is working:

1. Removed the shims under the rear inner camber ballstuds
2. Moved the shocks all the way to the inside hole on the tops (f&r)
3. Still running 1.6 front & 1.7 rear but changed the rear oil to 27.5
4. Battery all the way to the rear (shorty)


Anywho here she is all painted up and ready for track duty. WOOT!


Hey guys, b5m order placed, I have been traveling and haven't been able to follow the threads, what are the must have and recommended parts/upgrades I should order immediately?
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:36 PM   #1734
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I would say get the X-rings, aluminum top shaft, a Ti turnbuckles. You don't need these parts to have a good car but if your going to do them anyways, you might as well get them now and use them during the build rather then going back and taking stuff apart.
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:43 PM   #1735
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What's a good starting gearing for a 13.5 with this car? 72/30?
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Old 03-07-2014, 05:57 PM   #1736
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Yeah that ratio is fine
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:15 PM   #1737
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For a neater wiring job, did anyone consider to route the motor wires under the battery where the sensor wire should go…? Obviously some modding required incl the chassis, and possibly limited to 14G wire… any purists out there?


Comes in 12, 14 or 18ga
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:41 PM   #1738
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Comes in 12, 14 or 18ga
Where is that available? Or what do I even search? I would totally try that!

Also, does anybody know if the MIP B4 aluminum top shaft will work? I've been trying to compare mine with the pictures of the new Associated aluminum top shaft and I see a couple differences that look like integrated spacers, but I'm not really sure.
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:53 PM   #1739
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Where is that available? Or what do I even search? I would totally try that!

Also, does anybody know if the MIP B4 aluminum top shaft will work? I've been trying to compare mine with the pictures of the new Associated aluminum top shaft and I see a couple differences that look like integrated spacers, but I'm not really sure.
Flatwireready.com. Its used for hiding speaker wire in walls.

The MIP B4 Shaft will not work. This is a metric car and the b4 used the 3/16x3/8 bearings. You'd have better luck fitting a Kyosho RB6 top shaft with 5x12x4 bearings (which I am just speculating at, so no factual evidence this will actually work) or better yet, just get the AE B5 top shaft.
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Old 03-07-2014, 07:54 PM   #1740
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Xrings? You guys using kyosho?

Anyone been using the gear diff? If you are what diff oil?

Thanks
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