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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 12-07-2015, 05:57 PM   #17146
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
The servo horn is the TLR metal horn for the 22. You have to drill and re-tap the hole for 3mm.
This is a fantastic servo horn.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...lr1557/p203507

I don't have a 3mm tap, but was able to tap the hole by forcing a couple 3mm screws in without drilling. It ruins the screws, but seems to work just fine. I use a 3mm nut on the back of the ball stud (which is likely overkill).
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:55 PM   #17147
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I'll admit I'm a bit of a servo snob but I've owned one of the EXI D227's and it was a toy compared to pretty much any other servo I have used. I realize they are super cheap but they way I look at it, the servo isn't really something you should be cutting corners on. Just my $0.02
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:04 PM   #17148
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hello i want to use the 3.5 inserts but not sure how to put them in? one says 3.5+1l and the other says 3.5+2r how do i use these?
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:20 PM   #17149
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
hello i want to use the 3.5 inserts but not sure how to put them in? one says 3.5+1l and the other says 3.5+2r how do i use these?
Try google next time

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...nt-Inserts.pdf
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Old 12-07-2015, 08:58 PM   #17150
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thanks. what do the arrows on the rear mount do?
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Old 12-07-2015, 09:24 PM   #17151
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Got my CE kit today

2.5 hours in the garage, and all I have left is the turnbuckles, shocks and electronics. Love the way the kit has come together. Not a lot of flashing on the plastics, nice tight fit on everything, anti rust oil on the steel parts ( maybe a little more than normal but better than none) and I have yet to encounter any issues or missing pieces. The plastic is easy to work with and trimming was easily done with a semi sharp ( or semi-dull if you prefer) hobby knife. I would say AE did an awesome job. This is one of my favorite parts of the hobby, and for this kit to be this easy, I may just buy more for building purposes only!
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Old 12-08-2015, 12:29 AM   #17152
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I just bought the parts to move my b5m team kit from 4 gear to 3 gear... when it is all assembled, the top gear has some play side to side; it's not a lot, but the entire spur/slipper moves along with it. I dont have a shim to fit it, but I dont think I should need one? below is the list of what I bought... am I missing something?

I am reusing the bearings from the unused idler on the new top shaft

super quick vid of issue: youtu.be/bTIhgwUADpI

1 x ASC91603 Team Associated Aluminum Factory Team "3 Gear" Motor Plate (Blue)
1 x ASC91604 Team Associated B5M "3 Gear" Gear Cover
1 x ASC91606 Team Associated Aluminum Factory Team "3 Gear" Top Shaft
1 x ASC91607 Team Associated B5M "3 Gear" Gear Box

sorry if this has been asked previously; I tried to search the thread but couldnt find
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:45 AM   #17153
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Search for the lite manual. The 3-gear transmission uses 10mm shims. I used the yokomo ones as they come in three thicknesses. I think I put in the 0.1.

Perfect.
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Old 12-08-2015, 03:38 AM   #17154
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yeah; I checked the b5mFL and CE manual/supplement to verify bearing p/n, and neither of those show shims on the top shaft

I will pick up the Yokomo 10mm shims though, ty.
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:59 AM   #17155
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Whoops my bad. 10mm shims are for the diff within the case. Not topshaft. I jumped the gun.

I got a feeling though that I put a shim on the topshaft. Yokomo make 5mm's 6mm's they are handy to have anyway. Check your topshaft diameter . Depending on your topshaft and case will alter size. I have the MIP topshaft.

Sorry, you'll like your diff shimmed on the outdrives anyway.
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Old 12-08-2015, 05:33 AM   #17156
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The FL manual shows shims being used for the diff but neither the FL or CE shows any being used for the top shaft, as far as I can tell. I didn't put any shims in my CE build and so far it seems pretty solid.

On another note, I've been going crazy trying to figure out why I had 2 left over FT blue bearings left until I finally realized they're probably for the secondary idler gear when using the 4 gear setup. Whew!
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:55 AM   #17157
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the top shaft bearings are 5mm ID, so one could assume you would want 5mm ID shims, with an od at about 6mm
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:13 AM   #17158
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
the top shaft bearings are 5mm ID, so one could assume you would want 5mm ID shims, with an od at about 6mm
My topshaft also has a bit of play. Do you think these will work?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...losa6356/p5827
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Old 12-08-2015, 08:23 AM   #17159
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I would assume so. unsure on the thickness though. I used the avid ones
I use these http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:45 AM   #17160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shdwboxn View Post
I just bought the parts to move my b5m team kit from 4 gear to 3 gear... when it is all assembled, the top gear has some play side to side; it's not a lot, but the entire spur/slipper moves along with it. I dont have a shim to fit it, but I dont think I should need one? below is the list of what I bought... am I missing something?

I am reusing the bearings from the unused idler on the new top shaft

super quick vid of issue: youtu.be/bTIhgwUADpI

1 x ASC91603 Team Associated Aluminum Factory Team "3 Gear" Motor Plate (Blue)
1 x ASC91604 Team Associated B5M "3 Gear" Gear Cover
1 x ASC91606 Team Associated Aluminum Factory Team "3 Gear" Top Shaft
1 x ASC91607 Team Associated B5M "3 Gear" Gear Box

sorry if this has been asked previously; I tried to search the thread but couldnt find

The play is normal, its been on all my B5Ms 3 or 4 gear. The stock slipper works fine with the play but i have found when using the Avid or Schelle slipper it rubs on the motor plate a little.
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