iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

The guide in the back of the manual says that a longer link is generally used on higher grip. Yet it also says it gives it more roll.

I'm confused lol

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

Actually, the main change with the longer link in THIS case is camber gain, not roll center. The story would be different if you lengthen it by moving in at the chassis, but this is moving out at the hub.

This change really does very little in terms of roll because it doesn't change the leverage the outside wheel has to pull the chassis over by much, if any, which it would if you changed the linkage point at the inside near the chassis.

What it does do is keep the outside wheel from leaning IN as much (gaining camber) during roll, and effectively bleeds off traction at the rear tire because the tire leans OUT too far in corners. It's the classic more camber = more traction in corners, less camber = less traction in corners. In this case, it will help prevent traction rolls because the harder you press the car in the corner, the less it grabs.

That's also the reason I don't like the change. I'd rather have good predictable contact patch and bleed of traction another way, like limiting roll with a sway bar, stiffer springs, ride height, or roll center (although roll center may be too small of an adjustment to really individually play a roll in preventing traction rolling on super high bite surfaces).

Wayne

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

Anybody have a link for a tool to measure spring compression rate on our toy cars?

mes

Here you go: http://www.redrc.net/2014/12/gforce-spring-rate-gauge/

A stadium truck will be easier to drive than a buggy. As AE's kits are reasonably priced, I'd say get both, but if buying tires for two types of vehicles is too expensive, this may not be an option. You could approach one of the B5M drivers at your track and ask them to let you run through a few batteries to make up your mind. Maybe you could buy your own set of tires to do so. If you like it, you'll need some tires anyway, and if you don't like it, it will still be cheaper than the money you'd lose buying and reselling a kit.

alex4r

iTrader: (12)

Has anyone had any problems out of the box with the rear axles? I recently finished my kit and was at the track last week breaking in the diff on the bench and I noticed the wheels seemed waaay out of balance. Figured I must have done a bad glue job but now that I'm home looking at it, BOTH of the axles are bent.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I have 3 kits, never bent one

Jason Baliban

I have bent one but it was preceded with carnage!

jB

Graham11

iTrader: (22)

Thats a good question guys, I am not sure, I bought them from out LHS just assuming there was only one version and even if there were two, he only carries new stock, its a relatively new store but he may have ordered old ones. So since it would seem I have the wrong caps, is it horrible that they have a little wiggle room, would suck to have wasted $60 (b5m and b44.3)

Socket

iTrader: (61)

I'm going to take this and be honest, It's frustrating that the B5M is metric. I picked up a SC10.2, and now can use all my old tools from 10 years ago which is cool, but seriously, having to have both sets is annoying.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

But using a 2mm to do 90% of the car is nice

Mason

Wayne, have you tried the 1.7s with 32.5 in the rear yet? landing a jump is so effortless in my experience.

Razathorn

iTrader: (2)

I've tried 1.7s in the rear, but I felt I needed 35wt, and then it wasn't my favorite. I think it depends on how you are landing jumps.

The 1.7s provide you with more static damping vs pack. They're good if you're on a completely blown out track and need as little pack as possible, or a really fast smooth track and you need to run thicker static damping for the corners without making the car pack up like a brick. Whenever I ran them on our track, I felt that they were good until I drove the car hard, and then they didn't handle the corners or harsh landings as well as I wanted.

my $0.02

Graham11

iTrader: (22)

since bushings are cheaper than buying new caps, which bushings fit these older style caps? these:
http://www.amain.com/team-associated...g-blue-4/p7969

or I also have the schelle standoffs which I took off because the shock caps I got didnt fit and thats why i bought the AE standoffs, so I guess i could replace the b5m bushings with the old schelle b4 bushings:
http://www.amain.com/schelle-racing-...hing-4/p300382

Mason

cool beans. 1.7s just seemed more consistent/safe throughout the day here. switching to the 3x1.4 tapers saturday if its warm enough for me lol.

Jade67

iTrader: (5)

Cool thanks for the input. I will give it a try. the current track is a pretty tight/technical track layout so I will try the 8.5 with the timing at 20 and see how it runs.