Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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The three gear top shaft just came in to stock.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
In a MM car, because all of the weight of the car is inside the rear axle, the balance sits the other way. On-throttle, they CAN lack REAR bite, instead of front bite. So you run a 4gear trans, so that the rotation of the motor torques the chassis to put pressure on the rear tires instead. If you run a 3 gear trans in a MM car, you have the potential to really limit weight shift to the rear of the car.
This is stuff I learned 20 years ago, and still have modern day experience with when I was running the DEX and Cougar (which only had 4gear option). It's published info you can go look-up yourself. As a matter of fact, Durango has a GREAT little graphical diagram that teaches the whole thing.
I will venture to say that MOST tracks, the 4gear will be better. On SOME tracks that have high enough traction... the 3 gear will be better. Either way, releasing the truck stock with a 3 gear would be a mistake, as it certainly won't be the way to go for most tracks. So in conclusion, it is my opinion that it will be a tuning option for those that want the most amount of on-throttle steering as possible, which will usually only be tracks with the highest levels of traction.
I will certainly be buying to try out.
+1^^^
Just ordered a B5M, can't wait until it gets here, this will be my first venture into the kit world (all RTRs in the past).
Thinking of going with the Turnigy TrackStar combo, the 120A 'turbo' ESC and a TrackStar red-can motor. Any recommendations on size? I was thinking 17.5T until I start racing on a regular basis. How about gearing?
Thinking of going with the Turnigy TrackStar combo, the 120A 'turbo' ESC and a TrackStar red-can motor. Any recommendations on size? I was thinking 17.5T until I start racing on a regular basis. How about gearing?
How bout we ditch both the idler gears?
Less rotating mass, stiction, weight, etc. I know it's easier said than done, but why isn't it being done?
Less rotating mass, stiction, weight, etc. I know it's easier said than done, but why isn't it being done?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
Just ordered a B5M, can't wait until it gets here, this will be my first venture into the kit world (all RTRs in the past).
Thinking of going with the Turnigy TrackStar combo, the 120A 'turbo' ESC and a TrackStar red-can motor. Any recommendations on size? I was thinking 17.5T until I start racing on a regular basis. How about gearing?
Thinking of going with the Turnigy TrackStar combo, the 120A 'turbo' ESC and a TrackStar red-can motor. Any recommendations on size? I was thinking 17.5T until I start racing on a regular basis. How about gearing?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/rdrp-b5...et/#more-91021
"Made for the Team Associated B5 series of buggies are these aluminium shock mounts from RDRP. Machined from aircraft-grade 7075-T6 aluminium and hard-anodised, the bushings not only look cool but they also improve suspension efficiency as they do not bend under heavy loads like the kit’s composite bushings do. Precision manufacturing ensures an optimised fit within the upper shock cap while the specially treated surface makes for a hard-wearing part. The parts fit both rear and mid motor converted cars."
"Made for the Team Associated B5 series of buggies are these aluminium shock mounts from RDRP. Machined from aircraft-grade 7075-T6 aluminium and hard-anodised, the bushings not only look cool but they also improve suspension efficiency as they do not bend under heavy loads like the kit’s composite bushings do. Precision manufacturing ensures an optimised fit within the upper shock cap while the specially treated surface makes for a hard-wearing part. The parts fit both rear and mid motor converted cars."
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
http://www.redrc.net/2015/01/rdrp-b5...et/#more-91021
"Made for the Team Associated B5 series of buggies are these aluminium shock mounts from RDRP. Machined from aircraft-grade 7075-T6 aluminium and hard-anodised, the bushings not only look cool but they also improve suspension efficiency as they do not bend under heavy loads like the kit’s composite bushings do. Precision manufacturing ensures an optimised fit within the upper shock cap while the specially treated surface makes for a hard-wearing part. The parts fit both rear and mid motor converted cars."
"Made for the Team Associated B5 series of buggies are these aluminium shock mounts from RDRP. Machined from aircraft-grade 7075-T6 aluminium and hard-anodised, the bushings not only look cool but they also improve suspension efficiency as they do not bend under heavy loads like the kit’s composite bushings do. Precision manufacturing ensures an optimised fit within the upper shock cap while the specially treated surface makes for a hard-wearing part. The parts fit both rear and mid motor converted cars."
As cool as a belt would be, I was thinking just eliminating the two idlers and going top shaft to diff. It'd require a new case for sure. But if you look at one side of the diff case, they're really not all that far apart. Maybe just move the top shaft down and a back a little and tada. Someone get on that! I'm busy with midterms!
Just ordered a B5M, can't wait until it gets here, this will be my first venture into the kit world (all RTRs in the past).
Thinking of going with the Turnigy TrackStar combo, the 120A 'turbo' ESC and a TrackStar red-can motor. Any recommendations on size? I was thinking 17.5T until I start racing on a regular basis. How about gearing?
Thinking of going with the Turnigy TrackStar combo, the 120A 'turbo' ESC and a TrackStar red-can motor. Any recommendations on size? I was thinking 17.5T until I start racing on a regular basis. How about gearing?
If you are not worried about hanging with the true Mod guys, i think a 10.5 is perfect.
jB
Tech Champion
iTrader: (170)
As cool as a belt would be, I was thinking just eliminating the two idlers and going top shaft to diff. It'd require a new case for sure. But if you look at one side of the diff case, they're really not all that far apart. Maybe just move the top shaft down and a back a little and tada. Someone get on that! I'm busy with midterms!
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
The only reason it would require different gearing is because you might have to run a smaller spur to avoid the outdrive. Haha. But a non issue in stock!