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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:23 AM   #16861
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Originally Posted by Potoczak View Post
Off topic question. Ran my b5m lite for the first time last night. Which worked awesome by the way. But my issue is with the reedy black box speedo. 80% of the time when a turn it on the red and green light stay on solid and I will not get throttle response till I actually move the car a little then the green light starts flashing. Anyone have any ideas???

I did. Changed the sensor wire and it's fine now. Senot wires are finicky man.
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:03 AM   #16862
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My local carpet track has a "slicks only" rule. Ive gotten the Buggy pretty damn good. Lapped the field 3 times with a 17.5T lol.

Just don't like the hassle of switching the diff, rear arms, and shock package when I run carpet Friday night and dirt Saturday.
What slicks are you running? are you running PL Primes or true slicks like Sweeps?
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Old 11-22-2015, 10:07 AM   #16863
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What slicks are you running? are you running PL Primes or true slicks like Sweeps?
I've run both M4 and MC Primes and tores worn down to slicks. The MC compound doesn't do anywhere as good for me.

I gained two tenths with the VTR style but I have to touch up the bead every few runs.

Want to try some JConcepts and AKA slicks next with their harder inserts.
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Old 11-22-2015, 10:19 AM   #16864
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I have owned Associated cars for more than 30 years. I am in the market for a new 2wd buggy and am trying to decide. I know that this being the b5m thread, people might be biased, but I thought I would ask. I am mainly going to be racing 17.5 dirt. Should I get a Factory Lite or Championship Edition if I go with Associated? The new Losi is looking really good too. Xray Xb2? Why should I buy the Associated?
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:18 AM   #16865
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Unneeded.
Haha! Yeah, I've considered that too. But I figured cut gears are pretty cheap, and I can put them in while rebuilding the diff anyway, so I'd give them a try as long as I didn't get feedback about them stripping or something.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:28 AM   #16866
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Haha! Yeah, I've considered that too. But I figured cut gears are pretty cheap, and I can put them in while rebuilding the diff anyway, so I'd give them a try as long as I didn't get feedback about them stripping or something.
I am not sure about the performance compared to the standard gears, but my B5m came with them (I traded my 22 for one). As far as the durability of them, I have no issues and I am pretty rough on the car with my driving.
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Old 11-22-2015, 11:50 AM   #16867
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I have owned Associated cars for more than 30 years. I am in the market for a new 2wd buggy and am trying to decide. I know that this being the b5m thread, people might be biased, but I thought I would ask. I am mainly going to be racing 17.5 dirt. Should I get a Factory Lite or Championship Edition if I go with Associated? The new Losi is looking really good too. Xray Xb2? Why should I buy the Associated?
You can't go wrong with any of them. I absolutely love my B5M Lite. The new XB2 looks fantastic. I had a Xray X1 and the quality was on another level, but you had to pay for it.

Another thing to consider is local parts/setup/team support.
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Old 11-22-2015, 12:56 PM   #16868
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The stock B5M lite is dialed on carpet right out of the box. Just bolt up some Schumacher mini-pins and stagger ribs and lower the ride height a little and battery way back.
After struggling a little for front grip on clay, I went to the 1.7 ft shock pistons/35wt) on mine and when I put on the carpet tires, it cornered like my 1/12th scale pan car the moment I dropped it on the track. In fact mine probably has too much steering for some .
We run Foams (Gone Bananas) on carpet, endless grip....run them if they are legal for your club. I had to raise the Roll Center a lot to prevent traction rolling. Been playing with front/rear ride height bias along with shorty pack position. I either have WAY too much steering on the infield or it pushes through the high speed sweepers.
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Old 11-22-2015, 02:38 PM   #16869
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Default Thrust bearing and spring removal

I needed to rebuild my diff and I was unable to get the inner most thrust washer and the spring out of the outdrive. I tried fishing it out with a small hooked scraper. Any other tips? Thanks.
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Old 11-22-2015, 03:26 PM   #16870
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I needed to rebuild my diff and I was unable to get the inner most thrust washer and the spring out of the outdrive. I tried fishing it out with a small hooked scraper. Any other tips? Thanks.
Spray it with motor cleaner or carb cleaner to break down the grease that's holding it in. Let it sit for a minute, then give it a easy smack on a flat surface.
WD-40 also works...
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:58 PM   #16871
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does anyone know what the +4mm (c) arm mount would be used for? i am just curious what this would do to make it better? thinking about buying one if its worth it
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:05 PM   #16872
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does anyone know what the +4mm (c) arm mount would be used for? i am just curious what this would do to make it better? thinking about buying one if its worth it
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91608-ASC91608-factory_team_aluminum_arm_mount_4mm_c_b/
Explains it.
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:53 PM   #16873
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Thank you JERM13!
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Old 11-22-2015, 07:56 PM   #16874
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Anyone have a part number for just the bottom shock cap o ring, I don't need the cap, just the o ring
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Old 11-22-2015, 09:07 PM   #16875
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anybody try the jconcepts spring steel cva set other then bling any changes in performance over stock?
Yes, they have a little better drive feel because the joints fit better than stock. Being a better material, they stay that way for quite a while.

Easily worth it when it comes time to replace your worn stockers.
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