54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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11-08-2015, 12:42 PM
look here and see where the white transponder is mounted: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...ace2015012125/
11-08-2015, 01:22 PM
Ok guys... Im going to go full noob retard with a couple questions here.
Back story... My daughter has move up into the 2wd buggy world and is doing great. Was battling for the win / bump in the B main yesterday but had an ESC switch go screwy... She is running my 3 year old 22 2.0 witch is still plenty fast but due for an over haul. At this point its going to be cheaper to get a full kit than rebuild.
And now Im stuck between the B5M ( regular, Lite, or CE) or the new 22 3.0.
I can tune and know what to adjust, so that's not going to be an issue. I already own a 44.2 so it will be nice not to have to worry about buying different rims for 2 different cars so that's a plus.
Really, I just need some clarification on set-ups, adding weight ( if you need to) and what people have found if they have switched from a 22 to B5.
Would it be better to get the Lite than the regular... besides being 75 grams lighter, is it really better?
Whats the difference with the 3 gear and 4 gear tranny? ( besides that one other idle gear
)
Flat arms or Gull wing? (is it the same situation like with the SC10/T4.2 arms)?
Now with the cars being designed to run MM, are you guys adding weight like they had to do with the 22 ( tried it, spent $80 in brass, got pissed and sold it all, along with the MM parts swearing never to try MM again
)
Maybe Im just looking for someone to talk me into it. I would just hate to buy a new kit and watch her struggle and loose interest or something.
Back story... My daughter has move up into the 2wd buggy world and is doing great. Was battling for the win / bump in the B main yesterday but had an ESC switch go screwy... She is running my 3 year old 22 2.0 witch is still plenty fast but due for an over haul. At this point its going to be cheaper to get a full kit than rebuild.
And now Im stuck between the B5M ( regular, Lite, or CE) or the new 22 3.0.
I can tune and know what to adjust, so that's not going to be an issue. I already own a 44.2 so it will be nice not to have to worry about buying different rims for 2 different cars so that's a plus.
Really, I just need some clarification on set-ups, adding weight ( if you need to) and what people have found if they have switched from a 22 to B5.
Would it be better to get the Lite than the regular... besides being 75 grams lighter, is it really better?
Whats the difference with the 3 gear and 4 gear tranny? ( besides that one other idle gear
)Flat arms or Gull wing? (is it the same situation like with the SC10/T4.2 arms)?
Now with the cars being designed to run MM, are you guys adding weight like they had to do with the 22 ( tried it, spent $80 in brass, got pissed and sold it all, along with the MM parts swearing never to try MM again
)Maybe Im just looking for someone to talk me into it. I would just hate to buy a new kit and watch her struggle and loose interest or something.
11-08-2015, 02:46 PM
Tech Fanatic
Jason was saying that between the two the 4 gear has more lag or drag and Rivkin gives some explanation details on flat and gull wing arms in the video with him and Cav in it. I wish I could link it. It was on Neobuggy November 6th. Cheers
11-08-2015, 03:17 PM
Tech Fanatic
Ok guys... Im going to go full noob retard with a couple questions here.
Back story... My daughter has move up into the 2wd buggy world and is doing great. Was battling for the win / bump in the B main yesterday but had an ESC switch go screwy... She is running my 3 year old 22 2.0 witch is still plenty fast but due for an over haul. At this point its going to be cheaper to get a full kit than rebuild.
And now Im stuck between the B5M ( regular, Lite, or CE) or the new 22 3.0.
I can tune and know what to adjust, so that's not going to be an issue. I already own a 44.2 so it will be nice not to have to worry about buying different rims for 2 different cars so that's a plus.
Really, I just need some clarification on set-ups, adding weight ( if you need to) and what people have found if they have switched from a 22 to B5.
Would it be better to get the Lite than the regular... besides being 75 grams lighter, is it really better?
Whats the difference with the 3 gear and 4 gear tranny? ( besides that one other idle gear)
Flat arms or Gull wing? (is it the same situation like with the SC10/T4.2 arms)?
Now with the cars being designed to run MM, are you guys adding weight like they had to do with the 22 ( tried it, spent $80 in brass, got pissed and sold it all, along with the MM parts swearing never to try MM again)
Maybe Im just looking for someone to talk me into it. I would just hate to buy a new kit and watch her struggle and loose interest or something.
Back story... My daughter has move up into the 2wd buggy world and is doing great. Was battling for the win / bump in the B main yesterday but had an ESC switch go screwy... She is running my 3 year old 22 2.0 witch is still plenty fast but due for an over haul. At this point its going to be cheaper to get a full kit than rebuild.
And now Im stuck between the B5M ( regular, Lite, or CE) or the new 22 3.0.
I can tune and know what to adjust, so that's not going to be an issue. I already own a 44.2 so it will be nice not to have to worry about buying different rims for 2 different cars so that's a plus.
Really, I just need some clarification on set-ups, adding weight ( if you need to) and what people have found if they have switched from a 22 to B5.
Would it be better to get the Lite than the regular... besides being 75 grams lighter, is it really better?
Whats the difference with the 3 gear and 4 gear tranny? ( besides that one other idle gear
)Flat arms or Gull wing? (is it the same situation like with the SC10/T4.2 arms)?
Now with the cars being designed to run MM, are you guys adding weight like they had to do with the 22 ( tried it, spent $80 in brass, got pissed and sold it all, along with the MM parts swearing never to try MM again
)Maybe Im just looking for someone to talk me into it. I would just hate to buy a new kit and watch her struggle and loose interest or something.
11-08-2015, 03:45 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I am ordering mine today. I drove my close friends buggy. He told me it has the box setup. We have the popular tyre/foam setup for our track. It pushed pretty bad. It was pretty obvious even when watching him drive it. I was asking about the Thielke setup because we run stock class. His setup has different springs I was going to order them with the buggy if needed. In the past i have started with the most recent or most popular setup and adjusted from there. His just seemed so far away I thought maybe a different setup would be better to start from.
11-08-2015, 03:58 PM
Tech Fanatic
Nice tip if you two share the same track conditions
11-08-2015, 04:03 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
Probably not the same track conditions as we run on a wet clay surface with slicks. The traction is super high, with wheelies fairly common on the straights. So even with near perfect traction, the car pushed through turns with the 4 degree trailing inserts. I might not even describe it as a push, but the car turned really lazy on entry and mid corner. Normally I would say a push is most likely the wrong tires, but in my case I knew the tires we ran had the right traction.
11-08-2015, 04:12 PM
Tech Fanatic
Probably not the same track conditions as we run on a wet clay surface with slicks. The traction is super high, with wheelies fairly common on the straights. So even with near perfect traction, the car pushed through turns with the 4 degree trailing inserts. I might not even describe it as a push, but the car turned really lazy on entry and mid corner. Normally I would say a push is most likely the wrong tires, but in my case I knew the tires we ran had the right traction.
Last edited by Keith B; 11-08-2015 at 04:27 PM.
11-08-2015, 04:26 PM
I have a question, I just finished building my 2nd B5m(Lite version this time) and was wondering if I could get some ideas on how you set your ball diff once you build it and it's installed in the car. I see setup sheets that say tight and standard ball diff and I'm not sure how to do this. Also what track conditions would use a tight setup or a standard setup.
11-08-2015, 04:41 PM
Glad those guys race for a living. Just as bad if not worse than listening to Ronefalk ( don't care if its spelled wrong) talk about VRC!
But... I got the answers that I needed, so well done on the information part. Hopefully, AE will splurge for speech coaches for their drivers!
11-08-2015, 06:21 PM
Tech Fanatic
11-08-2015, 06:45 PM
I have a question, I just finished building my 2nd B5m(Lite version this time) and was wondering if I could get some ideas on how you set your ball diff once you build it and it's installed in the car. I see setup sheets that say tight and standard ball diff and I'm not sure how to do this. Also what track conditions would use a tight setup or a standard setup.
