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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:35 AM   #16591
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Just tune what you have. Its nice that there are drivers supplying setup sheets but knowing how to tune is what really starts to separate racers from drivers. If you think your current setup pushes, document the entire setup, post it, and tell us exactly how it is not handling correctly and we can help you get it right.
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Old 11-08-2015, 08:48 AM   #16592
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Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
Thanks.
Does the latest Thielke setup have less push than the stock box setup?
I highly recommend not using pro setups unless you drive like a pro. I agree with some of the other guys, go back to a stock baseline then post up about what you don't like. My first recommendation is if the stock set up is pushing, try moving the battery up and go up a step on the rear springs. Also, you sure your choice of tires and inserts are correct. That's a huge piece of the puzzle.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:15 AM   #16593
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I am ordering mine today. I drove my close friends buggy. He told me it has the box setup. We have the popular tyre/foam setup for our track. It pushed pretty bad. It was pretty obvious even when watching him drive it. I was asking about the Thielke setup because we run stock class. His setup has different springs I was going to order them with the buggy if needed. In the past i have started with the most recent or most popular setup and adjusted from there. His just seemed so far away I thought maybe a different setup would be better to start from.
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:17 AM   #16594
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While you guys are helping is there anything else that is really needed. That i should order with the car.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:18 PM   #16595
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I probably haven't thought on it enough but with the Savox black edition servos there is a wire cover for the lead wire. I'm wondering how to get that through the supplied notch behind the mounted servo? Any help will be appreciated
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:28 PM   #16596
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I probably haven't thought on it enough but with the black edition servos there is a wire cover for the lead wire. I'm wondering how to get that through the supplied notch behind the mounted servo? Any help will be appreciated
dont go through the "notch". thats for the transponder wire
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:34 PM   #16597
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dont go through the "notch". thats for the transponder wire
That could be true LOW ET because it's not shown with either going through there. Thanks alot
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:40 PM   #16598
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Mounting the transponder on top of the servo is something new to me, thanks again
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:42 PM   #16599
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Originally Posted by Keith B View Post
That could be true LOW ET because it's not shown with either going through there. Thanks alot
just go up and over the chassis brace with the servo wire. use the "notch" and recess in the chassis to run your transponder wire under the servo and mount the transponder close to the steering rack.

look here and see where the white transponder is mounted: http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...ace2015012125/
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Old 11-08-2015, 01:22 PM   #16600
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Ok guys... Im going to go full noob retard with a couple questions here.

Back story... My daughter has move up into the 2wd buggy world and is doing great. Was battling for the win / bump in the B main yesterday but had an ESC switch go screwy... She is running my 3 year old 22 2.0 witch is still plenty fast but due for an over haul. At this point its going to be cheaper to get a full kit than rebuild.

And now Im stuck between the B5M ( regular, Lite, or CE) or the new 22 3.0.
I can tune and know what to adjust, so that's not going to be an issue. I already own a 44.2 so it will be nice not to have to worry about buying different rims for 2 different cars so that's a plus.

Really, I just need some clarification on set-ups, adding weight ( if you need to) and what people have found if they have switched from a 22 to B5.

Would it be better to get the Lite than the regular... besides being 75 grams lighter, is it really better?
Whats the difference with the 3 gear and 4 gear tranny? ( besides that one other idle gear)
Flat arms or Gull wing? (is it the same situation like with the SC10/T4.2 arms)?
Now with the cars being designed to run MM, are you guys adding weight like they had to do with the 22 ( tried it, spent $80 in brass, got pissed and sold it all, along with the MM parts swearing never to try MM again)

Maybe Im just looking for someone to talk me into it. I would just hate to buy a new kit and watch her struggle and loose interest or something.
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Old 11-08-2015, 02:46 PM   #16601
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Jason was saying that between the two the 4 gear has more lag or drag and Rivkin gives some explanation details on flat and gull wing arms in the video with him and Cav in it. I wish I could link it. It was on Neobuggy November 6th. Cheers
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Old 11-08-2015, 03:17 PM   #16602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerm13 View Post
Ok guys... Im going to go full noob retard with a couple questions here.

Back story... My daughter has move up into the 2wd buggy world and is doing great. Was battling for the win / bump in the B main yesterday but had an ESC switch go screwy... She is running my 3 year old 22 2.0 witch is still plenty fast but due for an over haul. At this point its going to be cheaper to get a full kit than rebuild.

And now Im stuck between the B5M ( regular, Lite, or CE) or the new 22 3.0.
I can tune and know what to adjust, so that's not going to be an issue. I already own a 44.2 so it will be nice not to have to worry about buying different rims for 2 different cars so that's a plus.

Really, I just need some clarification on set-ups, adding weight ( if you need to) and what people have found if they have switched from a 22 to B5.

Would it be better to get the Lite than the regular... besides being 75 grams lighter, is it really better?
Whats the difference with the 3 gear and 4 gear tranny? ( besides that one other idle gear)
Flat arms or Gull wing? (is it the same situation like with the SC10/T4.2 arms)?
Now with the cars being designed to run MM, are you guys adding weight like they had to do with the 22 ( tried it, spent $80 in brass, got pissed and sold it all, along with the MM parts swearing never to try MM again)

Maybe Im just looking for someone to talk me into it. I would just hate to buy a new kit and watch her struggle and loose interest or something.
Just like Rivkin says the lite edition kit has every thing I want and need to go fast bause I am running it strictly on high bite non grooved dry clay. I think for her you should seriously buy the champions edition kit
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Old 11-08-2015, 03:45 PM   #16603
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Originally Posted by fordohio View Post
I am ordering mine today. I drove my close friends buggy. He told me it has the box setup. We have the popular tyre/foam setup for our track. It pushed pretty bad. It was pretty obvious even when watching him drive it. I was asking about the Thielke setup because we run stock class. His setup has different springs I was going to order them with the buggy if needed. In the past i have started with the most recent or most popular setup and adjusted from there. His just seemed so far away I thought maybe a different setup would be better to start from.
The first time I built a B5M with the kit set-up it pushed badly as well. For me, it was the 4 degree trailing axle inserts recommended in the manual. Switched to the 3 degree inserts and I had all the steering I could use.
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Old 11-08-2015, 03:58 PM   #16604
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The first time I built a B5M with the kit set-up it pushed badly as well. For me, it was the 4 degree trailing axle inserts recommended in the manual. Switched to the 3 degree inserts and I had all the steering I could use.
Nice tip if you two share the same track conditions
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:03 PM   #16605
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Nice tip if you two share the same track conditions
Probably not the same track conditions as we run on a wet clay surface with slicks. The traction is super high, with wheelies fairly common on the straights. So even with near perfect traction, the car pushed through turns with the 4 degree trailing inserts. I might not even describe it as a push, but the car turned really lazy on entry and mid corner. Normally I would say a push is most likely the wrong tires, but in my case I knew the tires we ran had the right traction.
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