Wade....

iTrader: (2)

$150! Ill take a +/- 0.01 mm inaccuracy.

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

I have an older model of that one. I've had it since about 1997 and it still works like new. I also have one of those crappy ones - I think it came for free with some bearings I bought and I just can't get it to work right.

Barge

Actually a micrometer would be a much better way to measure something like a shock shaft

gticlay

iTrader: (14)

Yeah a screw gage would be better but who can afford that many nice tools for toy cars? Also, calipers ususally have the wider part so you can measure things like a shock shaft pretty easily.

proraptor

iTrader: (2)

Anyone have excessing play between the rear hubs and the rear a arms? I so what are you doing to resolve this?

OptimumRC

iTrader: (6)

The motor and transmission have been centered (approximately) over the B4.

People worry to much about some small details like ESC/wire placement when even changing the motor from stock to mod changes the weight a small amount.

Fact is +/-5mm side to side placement of the speed control will have such an insignificant change in L/R weight bias because it is still very close to center as it is and and it is a small percentage of the total weight of the car.

predu

iTrader: (6)

nevermind mine had slop on inner rear arms not outer

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

You fit a red oring in there? How much play did you have??

Ragsrc

iTrader: (8)

Just got the call that mine came in. What tips do the guys that built there's have for us?

Thanks for the advice in advance!

proraptor

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I noticed there is play in the rear arms where they attach to the chassis and also in the rear hubs where they meet the rear a arm. Kind of annoying and more slop than my B4

proraptor

iTrader: (2)

Read this whole thread. Its full of advice

predu

iTrader: (6)

haha just reread mine was between the arm and block on the inner hinge pin, not the hub side. and the oring gets squished pretty good but no slop after.

Cautrell05

iTrader: (8)

What are you guys coming up with for a ready to race weight?

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (20)

I need to go back and shim the rear arms where they connect to the chassis. There was an unusual amount of slop there. I also was a little worried about how much slop the shock caps have on the upper shock mounts. The tops of the shocks can shimmy back and forth quite a bit at the upper shock mounts. I thought maybe I was missing something that might have needed to go in the shock cap hole but didn't find anything in the instructions

mugenhatchie

I think based upon what I have read and what mine weighs, roughly 1550g-1580g with a shorty lipo is a safe guess. Keep in mind this is box stock. Mine was 1570g with everything on it rtr.