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Old 10-23-2015, 10:39 AM   #16231
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I've seen you mention machined idler gears before, but I can't seem to find any info on them. Who makes them and where do they sell them?
Socket is toying with you. Because yes some locals have access to the machined idler gears, BUT they are not for sale. The guy that makes them, does it as a service for some locals, but he has no desire to sell them on the market. He owns a business that makes "real" gears for "real" cars. His daughter races for AE and this is something he was doing to give her and locals an "edge".
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:40 AM   #16232
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He is talking about actual machined gears. He would need to tell you where / from whom he got them. Socket is also the type of person to tell you he has them and not tell you where you can get them.
You're funny

Another amazing part - Machined shock bushings. Oh my are they amazing. I have 3 sets left...and could never imagine parting with them.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:41 AM   #16233
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He is talking about actual machined gears. He would need to tell you where / from whom he got them. Socket is also the type of person to tell you he has them and not tell you where you can get them.
I bet his inbox is about to be full of PM's from people wanting to know where to get them.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #16234
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I bet his inbox is about to be full of PM's from people wanting to know where to get them.
As Wildcat mentioned....They are not available.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:45 AM   #16235
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I wouldn't say pucks are a waste but most guys wouldn't notice any gains in lap times and probably would ruin them fast because people seem to forget to replace the pucks as often as they should. That's the bottom line on mods right? Either your trying to make your car more tunable or more reliable and reduce lap times. Almost all the mods most of us buy don't really do either.

As far as the caged thrust bearings go I've found quite the opposite results of Wildcat. My diffs last forever with them. Part of it may be that I've got a lot of cars and rotate them. I dunno, but since I started using the avid caged thrusts I find that my diff outdrives and dog bones wear out before my diffs do. I guess that I've had good luck. Its not like I use anything special. I buy the MIP pucks diff rebuild kit and then use the caged thrust. I cannot figure out if I like the ceramic or carbide thrust better. The longevity is good on both. My "race" b5m has the ceramic and the diff is 5 months old. I don't plan on rebuilding it until it needs it.

Unlike the "all pros" that do a lot of posting I can tell you that I'm a mid pack racer and I'm happy with a win every month or two. The difference is that not only do I try and test everything, I'm also, more or less, am the track shop so I know what everybody [locally] is using and I don't order or sell anything that I wouldn't use.

The local pros and sponsored guys do not use a ton of stuff that a lot of us buy. The advice that I've heard a lot of pros give is make sure your set up is right, pick the right tires, and get a decent steering servo.

Going back to the B5M Lite, I think its the best out of the box kit that has been sold in a while, perhaps even the best ever. If you run on med-high bite you can buy it, build it per the book, slap your electronics in, and be totally competitive without spending a dime on the basic chassis. There is no other manufacturer that sells as comprehensive of a kit. Most other cars need $100 in upgrades to be where the Lite is out of the box. If you buy a Lite don't be like me. I've never been able to buy one and not throw a couple hundred bucks worth of stuff on it. I swear that I'm going to try to run one that's pretty much out of the box to see if my lap times are any different. I don't think they will be.
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:46 AM   #16236
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I actually have run stock a lot. The pucks improved zero for my racing and did not last as long as the stock parts on the car. I like the Schelle and Avid Slippers just fine but I have had just as good of luck with the stock system. The lite comes with the two pad system which works much better than the associated three pad system. The lite kit is good to go out of the box in my opinion. I dislike the plastic rear hubs with the inserts but people have run them without issue.
The pucks do matter. I hate to spend money on gimmicks. But i am telling you they do matter. Faster spin up for sure and the rear of the car is more free, probably do to less bind and weight in the rear. As for the age old question "Will my lap times improve?". That depends on if you can keep the wheels down for the entire race and the track you race on. I could get into all of the variable of track surface and layout and the impact of Pucks, but I will pass on that. I run on high bite tacky tracks and we use clay or SS slicks. One of the local tracks likes short run up jumps and that extra snap helps. But we have so much traction that traction rolls are abound. I like the pucks, because they free up the rear end and let the car rotate better. I have gone back and forth with pucks and kit setup, and the pucks just feel better and give me more corner speed.

The kit slipper is trash and I will never be convinced otherwise. And the AE gears are crap. Most of the ones I had were out of round. And the slipper adjusts just fade too much for me. I dont lockout my slipper and I like to actually set it and forget it. The Avid Evo does exactly that for me.
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:20 AM   #16237
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Unless you guys know something I don't. Any narrowed, lightened idler gears are going to be "machined". If by machined you mean that the entire gear, including the teeth are machined vs. molded. It's hard to say how much gain comes from that vs. a stock gear that's been machined/narrowed. Some I'm sure, but enough to tell??
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:22 AM   #16238
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As Wildcat mentioned....They are not available.
I'll bet a dollar that if I'M nice I can get a set
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:28 AM   #16239
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I'll bet a dollar that if I'M nice I can get a set
In other words, if racer1812 can get a set, you won't be banned from the site
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:46 AM   #16240
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In other words, if racer1812 can get a set, you won't be banned from the site
He got denied...LOL.

Ban me, it's not like you guys would miss out on anything
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:49 AM   #16241
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Dang..I lost a dollar, in the vending machine at work today. You're all still stuck with Socket
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Old 10-23-2015, 11:51 AM   #16242
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I was thinking he was talking about actual machined gears, not cut stock gears.
maybe ur looking for something like this?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/robinson-racing-b5-b5m-hardened-steel-idler-gear-rrp2331/p361375
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:12 PM   #16243
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maybe ur looking for something like this?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...rp2331/p361375
I would not use that. A steel idler is heavy and will wear out the topshaft quickly.
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Old 10-23-2015, 01:06 PM   #16244
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The pucks made no difference for me and cost more to maintain in the long run, the stock slipper I can tune and make work just fine. I have tuned with and without and that's what works for me. To each their own for me tuning makes me better to others 15K plus comments in a tech forum makes them an expert.
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:01 PM   #16245
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The pucks made no difference for me and cost more to maintain in the long run, the stock slipper I can tune and make work just fine. I have tuned with and without and that's what works for me. To each their own for me tuning makes me better to others 15K plus comments in a tech forum makes them an expert.
lol, at the poke. If I was running in dusty dirty outdoor conditions, I would probably run the stock out drives, just because of the up keep. And the additional weight in the rear might be welcome. It is an it depends. I said for my tracks, they are good. I have no idea on your track. I guess I kinda assume everyone runs on indoor clay tracks. But obviously, that is not a true case.
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