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Old 10-18-2015, 08:35 PM   #16141
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Hi all,

Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,

V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.

Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?

Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?

Cheers!
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:58 PM   #16142
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Originally Posted by Nat Maniac View Post
Hi all,

Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,

V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
V2 Pistons will only work w/ Version 2 pistons. They top is narrower (if I remember correctly) to account for the piston to "sit" on the shaft rather then be held between two eclips. So short answer is no.

Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Egh, tough call here. My original didn't leak that bad as long as I got the 4 screws tight. It helped, but not a ton.

Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
There's not really any aftermarket options right now. Nor really another design to base it off of besides the Kyosho shocks.

Cheers!
Answers above.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:05 PM   #16143
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can anyone tell me what "hard" arms and towers will do over the stock parts? Is it worth getting them? thanks alo
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:06 PM   #16144
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Thanks 3Srcracing
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:22 PM   #16145
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can anyone tell me what "hard" arms and towers will do over the stock parts? Is it worth getting them? thanks alo
Reduce flex. More brittle compared to regular plastic. Only worth it if you are trying top reduce flex. Usually more desired in high bite situations. Mix and match between hard and soft parts for chassis tuning.
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Old 10-19-2015, 04:16 AM   #16146
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Has anyone experience with a combo of Sonic Mach 2 8.5T and GM-GENIUS Race II 80R? A local shop owner told me that, if you arent into pro-racing, you dont need a ESC like the Nosram HD. Would save me up do 100$ and the Graupner ESC seems to be pretty good for the Sonic

The other thing: Can anyone give some information on how long my runtime will be on a standard track? It's hard for me to choose the ideal motor. Sonic Mhac 2 with 7.5T?8.5T?10.5T

Last edited by man1ac; 10-19-2015 at 06:11 AM.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:56 AM   #16147
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I've been running this same 17.5 motor along with the X-Car 120A ESC in both my (new) B5M Lite and my son's (my old B4.2FT) car for over a year now. Both are set up in blinky mode with conservative (per the book) gearing and zero end bell timing. Obviously we're not the fastest cars on the track, but our goal is to simply stay ON the track! Upside down doesn't win races, nor do broken cars. Set up like this we can run and run, working on lap consistency, and never worry about overheating anything.

Granted, I'll admit my experience with other brushless hardware is zip. Last time I ran RC was 1988 with brushed mod motors and a Victor Engineering VIC-4 ESC. Still have it, too, and it still works!

Chris

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Here is a ESC and motor combo for a great price, good one to start off on in stock racing or just playing around.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...bo_17_5T_.html
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:09 AM   #16148
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Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
For those of you running the +4mm mount, what o rings come in the kit thats "required" to run them?

Can you just run the generic orings, or did they get thinner ones?
They aren't O-rings...they are shims.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91605/
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:05 AM   #16149
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Originally Posted by SCTDan View Post
Where the contact between the metal pieces is solid the grease is pushed out and does not add any resistance. In the loose areas it remains and helps prevent arcing and corrosion. I've done resistance tests and have not seen any difference in the same connection with and without the grease. However with it the connection does go together and come apart easier.
So you've done nothing but "lube" your connectors then...?

If that's the case then..."user results may vary"
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:37 PM   #16150
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I had a peak battery bullet sorta melt the case a little bit, and when that happens, I just re-tension my bullets. I'd rather have them hard to pull out than melt a battery down. Remember how hard deans plugs used to be some times. Yeah, that.
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Old 10-19-2015, 01:53 PM   #16151
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I had a peak battery bullet sorta melt the case a little bit, and when that happens, I just re-tension my bullets. I'd rather have them hard to pull out than melt a battery down. Remember how hard deans plugs used to be some times. Yeah, that.
No astroglide in the lipo sack for me
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Old 10-19-2015, 05:55 PM   #16152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCTDan View Post
Where the contact between the metal pieces is solid the grease is pushed out and does not add any resistance. In the loose areas it remains and helps prevent arcing and corrosion. I've done resistance tests and have not seen any difference in the same connection with and without the grease. However with it the connection does go together and come apart easier.
At first i was just thinking of the electrical contact. But I agree with Racer and Raz. I want my connectors to be secure, I don't mind them being a slight pain. I used to use Sermos/PowerPoles but when I started running on carpet and hard pack tracks I started having disconnect issues. I also want the install to take some effort and thus hopefully some thought to avoid errors.

But hey, if it works for you that's fine, just my thoughts. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 10-19-2015, 06:26 PM   #16153
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What is involved and what parts do I need to change my 4 gear trans to a new 3 gear ? And will a Schelle clutch work on it afterwards
https://www.teamassociated.com/news/...on_for_the_B5M

Yes all this is doing is flipping around your motor and taking a a gear out. Any slipper is fine.
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:02 PM   #16154
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Originally Posted by BrandonBreh View Post
https://www.teamassociated.com/news/...on_for_the_B5M

Yes all this is doing is flipping around your motor and taking a a gear out. Any slipper is fine.
You will also need diff shims for the 3 gear
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Old 10-19-2015, 07:34 PM   #16155
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This is probably a dumb question, but how do you get the top shaft bearing out on the closed side? I remember it was a snug fit when I built it, now I just can't seem to get it out.
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