Originally Posted by imajerky

I run esc back under the brace, battery forward. I found that running inline this way kept the chassis flat in corners, was very predictable in corners and had fantastic steering. I run on a med/high traction indoor track, traction is fairly consistent. Just kind of depends on the night. I felt the inline set up kept the body from rolling excessively, I used the analogy of the car "stepping in a hole" previously. Inline keeps the car flat in air also, jumps/lands with ease.

As far as ways to drop some weight, I have used the following

Things that improve function and drop weight.
Ti turnbuckles
Slipper eliminator. I use ceramic diff balls, no drop in how long the diff has lasted so far without a slipper (17.5 is easier on internals)
MIP pucks system
Alum topshaft

Things that are cool and drop weight
Lunsford Ti screws. Spendy but amazing quality. Look dope.
Lunsford Ti Axles. Again, amazing quality.

Things most people do not think about that lose grams
Amount of paint on your body. If you are looking for bare minimum, mind how much paint you apply when painting
Chassis protector weighs approx. 14 grams

My car weighs in at 1520-30g depending on tires used. I run a cheap HK 17.5 and cheap HK batteries, car is fast. No problems with being outmotored, car is light.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

I have been going back and forth on the chassis protector. I pulled mine off last night to do some work on the car. The I spent 20 minutes with goo gone trying to get the adhesive off. I tossed my used chassis protector on the scale an it weighted 18 grams. So far I have replaced 3 chassis protectors for a total cost of $20ish. I could almost buy a new chassis on ebay at this point. Plus the clay does not stick to the chassis like it does the chassis protector. I am 1515 grams without the chassis protector and clay tires.

Originally Posted by Cpt.America

Stop paying for chassis protectors, which will break the bank. Use what I use!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Scotchrap...item566c21cb7e

(this is the 10mil thick tape.. im 90% sure im running the 10mil, and not the 20mil... but im not 100% positive. I can look later).

This roll has lasted me YEARS. You simply lay it out and cut it to fit the length of the car, and you stick it down (clean with alcohol first). Then simply trim to match the chassis with an exacto. It resticks countless times (never seems to lose its sticky qualities), and leaves no residue. I change mine out every month or two, and cut a new piece. I think I got my roll in 2011 and it still looks 90% full.

Originally Posted by deftones.jt@gma

How much weight does it add? Is it lighter?

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

I have been going back and forth on the chassis protector. I pulled mine off last night to do some work on the car. The I spent 20 minutes with goo gone trying to get the adhesive off. I tossed my used chassis protector on the scale an it weighted 18 grams. So far I have replaced 3 chassis protectors for a total cost of $20ish. I could almost buy a new chassis on ebay at this point. Plus the clay does not stick to the chassis like it does the chassis protector. I am 1515 grams without the chassis protector and clay tires.

Originally Posted by Justinb86

Out of curiosity why are u going thru so Manu chass protectors? I run the xfactory carbon fiber chassis so it's more important to have one. Carbon fiber wears faster. I still get at least 1 season or maybe 2 out of them.

The Only portion that seams to wear fast is the tail piece. So I make a cut there and replace just the tail piece when it's worn out. I just buy generic sized chassis protectors so I have some left over. I actually get my chassis protectors from SOR Graphics. They are extremely durable compared to a lot of why's out there. I'm sure other companies make compatible products. I just haven't seen them.

I don't think the chassis protectors are needed near as much with the aluminum chassis. The aluminum holds up well. I don't use a chassis protector on my Losi 22-4 and it still looka good for how many times I have ended up rail sliding the pipes when I miscalculated a jump.

Originally Posted by Justinb86

Out of curiosity why are u going thru so Manu chass protectors? I run the xfactory carbon fiber chassis so it's more important to have one. Carbon fiber wears faster. I still get at least 1 season or maybe 2 out of them.

The Only portion that seams to wear fast is the tail piece. So I make a cut there and replace just the tail piece when it's worn out. I just buy generic sized chassis protectors so I have some left over. I actually get my chassis protectors from SOR Graphics. They are extremely durable compared to a lot of why's out there. I'm sure other companies make compatible products. I just haven't seen them.

I don't think the chassis protectors are needed near as much with the aluminum chassis. The aluminum holds up well. I don't use a chassis protector on my Losi 22-4 and it still looka good for how many times I have ended up rail sliding the pipes when I miscalculated a jump.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971

Yeah, I only use it to keep the chassis nice. But you are correct, on damn clay, on the rear tail plate takes abuse. All you really need is a tail piece to cover 90% of the dmg. That link that capt linked might work great for making tail pieces.

Originally Posted by thecman26

So really all that is needed is a nice thin rear skid plate? Hmmm....

I wonder if these guys could make something up to fit?
http://www.deracing.net/store/index....ory&path=25_28

Originally Posted by Jmuck69

It has to do with the crush sleeve in between the two bearings in the hub being out of tolerance. Solution is place (1) .20mm shim along with crush tube. This will give the additional support the bearings need when you tighten down the wheel.

Originally Posted by isarctard

I tried adding a spacer and still the same result. Will contact AE and see if a running change has been made on the crush tube and order new bearings.

Thanks for all the input.

Originally Posted by Skeeter36

To be honest i think the kit bearings a just a hair sub par. As soon as i put schelle bearings in my cars all the sudden no more bearing issues but with the same hubs and steering blocks.