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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:27 PM   #15856
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
anyone know how to put the front axle height to up postion?
U need the schelle bushing pieces
http://www.schelleracing.com/Associa...ng-Set-SCH1087
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Old 10-04-2015, 12:37 PM   #15857
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Thanks chris i couldnt figure out how that was done. Thank you
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Old 10-04-2015, 01:11 PM   #15858
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anyone know how to put the front axle height to up postion?
or Associated Part #: 91403
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Old 10-04-2015, 01:39 PM   #15859
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or Associated Part #: 91403
Great thank you.
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:03 PM   #15860
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That's a B5 to B5M Heavy conversion though, right?

I just added up the parts. I think the conversion kit + chassis, 3 gear, motor plate is about $80, so you can get close for about $160. Still no titanium turnbuckles or HD axles that I forgot to include in the original list.

Seems like the cheapest option is to just sell the B5 for $100 or whatever and buy a new kit.

You never can upgrade a car it seems for a good value. Always best to sell it and upgrade the whole kit used or new.

Earlier this year I looked in a NIB RC8B I had to upgrade to RC8.2 and B44.2 to B44.3 and not worth it at all. Parts add up to usually about a new kit price.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:29 PM   #15861
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What is the best batterey to use for 17.5 stock?
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:38 PM   #15862
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A guy that I race with has ALL the Integy stuff on his car....it is a tank
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:29 PM   #15863
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Anyone used a torque gauge to measure diff tightness. I know you can get screwdriver/wrench torque gauges. Seems like a reliable way to get the tightness right.

There are cheap ones out there.
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Torque-Wrench-Gauge-Angular/214307

Just an idea. What do you think? Could you hold 1 wheel and twist the other with the gauge. To get a reading.
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Old 10-04-2015, 08:46 PM   #15864
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Quick question, B5M lite, car is purpose built to run with my Yokomo isn't completely hooked up. Tried running a Nova slipper on it, and the back little plate is rubbing on the motor plate turns out I have about .05mm play on the top shaft that is causing it to rub, doesn't the top shaft on this car sit tight with no side to side play in the diff case? I remember my old B5M didn't have this problem, nowhere in the manual did I see to run a shim anywhere. And ideas would help.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:53 AM   #15865
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Originally Posted by Volition View Post
Anyone used a torque gauge to measure diff tightness. I know you can get screwdriver/wrench torque gauges. Seems like a reliable way to get the tightness right.

There are cheap ones out there.
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...Angular/214307

Just an idea. What do you think? Could you hold 1 wheel and twist the other with the gauge. To get a reading.
Or just go by feel, which works better.

That's a nylock on the diff, if the nylock is a little tight, or a little loose, your torque gauge won't be able to account for that.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:54 AM   #15866
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Quick question, B5M lite, car is purpose built to run with my Yokomo isn't completely hooked up. Tried running a Nova slipper on it, and the back little plate is rubbing on the motor plate turns out I have about .05mm play on the top shaft that is causing it to rub, doesn't the top shaft on this car sit tight with no side to side play in the diff case? I remember my old B5M didn't have this problem, nowhere in the manual did I see to run a shim anywhere. And ideas would help.
This is pretty easy - pull apart the transmission and see where the play is. You don't want it super tight in the cases, however just like anything, shim to perfection.
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:32 AM   #15867
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Had that same issue with my Sc5m but not the B5m lite. The tolerance from each kit always are a little off but a little shimming can cure a lot of ill's.
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:16 AM   #15868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Quick question, B5M lite, car is purpose built to run with my Yokomo isn't completely hooked up. Tried running a Nova slipper on it, and the back little plate is rubbing on the motor plate turns out I have about .05mm play on the top shaft that is causing it to rub, doesn't the top shaft on this car sit tight with no side to side play in the diff case? I remember my old B5M didn't have this problem, nowhere in the manual did I see to run a shim anywhere. And ideas would help.
The topshaft has some play, so you can add a 3/16" axle shim to space out the slipper. Also you can pull the shaft out to make sure the bearing is completely seated into the case. If you don't have a shim email [email protected] and we'll mail you some shims.
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:16 PM   #15869
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Originally Posted by Volition View Post
Anyone used a torque gauge to measure diff tightness. I know you can get screwdriver/wrench torque gauges. Seems like a reliable way to get the tightness right.

There are cheap ones out there.
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...Angular/214307

Just an idea. What do you think? Could you hold 1 wheel and twist the other with the gauge. To get a reading.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Or just go by feel, which works better.

That's a nylock on the diff, if the nylock is a little tight, or a little loose, your torque gauge won't be able to account for that.
The Nylock can be solved for. Nut with no Nylock or have the nut flush against the wheel.

The problem with feel is it is so subjective. What is loose, what is medium what is tight. Let alone what is medium tight to me may be loose to you.

They are cheap enough that I might just give one a try. I'd love to be able to replicate diff tightness from diff build to diff build. Hopefully, get rid off the flick test. Which while adequate is too subjective.
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Old 10-05-2015, 01:46 PM   #15870
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The Nylock can be solved for. Nut with no Nylock or have the nut flush against the wheel.

The problem with feel is it is so subjective. What is loose, what is medium what is tight. Let alone what is medium tight to me may be loose to you.

They are cheap enough that I might just give one a try. I'd love to be able to replicate diff tightness from diff build to diff build. Hopefully, get rid off the flick test. Which while adequate is too subjective.
Volition,

A group of us tried using a torque wrench with mixed results. Let us know what you find. I personally go by feel.
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