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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:14 PM   #15766
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Originally Posted by gooba View Post
Being concerned about looks on a racecar is stupid.
that depends if you are in first place it does not matter, if in last place than make it look good.

I always say, form over function my friend.
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:22 PM   #15767
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Can I get recommendations on gearing, I'm running a team powers 7.5 motor, currently using 81/23, timing on motor is at 0*, our track is carpet high traction small/medium in size
Also some chassis setup choices for carpet would be great too
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Old 09-28-2015, 05:27 PM   #15768
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When is it appropriate to change gearing vs endbell timing vs esc timing. What is the advantage of changing one over the other or what's the difference in changing each.
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:09 PM   #15769
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http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/view_article/20


This might be helpful, -Tim
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:42 AM   #15770
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Just ordered B5M Factory Lite. Does the kit come with X-rings?
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Old 09-29-2015, 01:47 AM   #15771
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No it doesn't and not either the updates ball cups, still as stiff as the old ones
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Old 09-29-2015, 03:55 AM   #15772
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It does not come with x-rings.
My kit that I got in August came with good ball cups, I didn't have to do anything to them for the suspension to be free.
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:43 AM   #15773
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Thanks guys!
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:30 AM   #15774
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Ill be starting my build on the b5m lite this week. I know the bearings were in question for the original kit. I see the lite comes with upgraded bearings, are they any good?
Also has anyone tried removing the seals or at least one seal for the transmission bearings since they are not exposed to the elements to free up the drive train?
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:51 AM   #15775
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Ill be starting my build on the b5m lite this week. I know the bearings were in question for the original kit. I see the lite comes with upgraded bearings, are they any good?
Also has anyone tried removing the seals or at least one seal for the transmission bearings since they are not exposed to the elements to free up the drive train?
The lite bearings are certainly better. I would recommend you pickup a set of the avid or schelle transmission bearings before the build if you're at all wanting a freer drivetrain. I would also pickup several idler gears, and find the one that is the most round.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:45 AM   #15776
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What good is upgrading the transmission bearings if you're not also upgrading the wheel hub bearings?
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:52 AM   #15777
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What good is upgrading the transmission bearings if you're not also upgrading the wheel hub bearings?
It still frees it up. I would only run the ceramics in the trans and keep the regular bearings in the hubs as they are exposed to the elements. I clean out all the "lube" from the hub bearings and use my own. Not as free as ceramics would be but it makes a difference.
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:03 AM   #15778
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It still frees it up. I would only run the ceramics in the trans and keep the regular bearings in the hubs as they are exposed to the elements. I clean out all the "lube" from the hub bearings and use my own. Not as free as ceramics would be but it makes a difference.
I have been running the avid revolution ceramics in my front and rear hubs for a year. still super smooth. I was told they would not last as long, but they have. But we have very low dust here.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:33 AM   #15779
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When is it appropriate to change gearing vs endbell timing vs esc timing. What is the advantage of changing one over the other or what's the difference in changing each.
I only run my cars in blinky, so I no longer run any dynamic timing in my ESC. Back in 08/09/10ish... before the blinky mode thing became law in the RC world for stock racing, and when I was running touring car, you had to be VERY good at understanding and implementing dynamic timing in the ESC in order to be competitive. If you want to learn how that all works, do a google search or send me a PM and i'd be happy to explain it.

Having said that, if you ARE running blinky mode rules, you can't set even static timing in your ESC anyway. But for all intents and purposes, adding 10 degrees of static timing in your ESC is no different than adding 10 degrees of static timing to the endbell of the motor.

The real question is when do you gear up or down, vs adding or removing endbell timing on the motor. For your average racer, they really can be thought of as being synonymous. Adding timing feels, for the most part, like gearing up. Now, there are actually differences. Certain motors will perform better, or feel better, or seem to prefer a certain range on it's timing endbell. For example, on my Fantom motors I run in offroad, The motors feel better geared up one tooth, with the timing kept relativly lower, around 40 on the endbell. Geared down but running 50 on the endbell (which should net the same basic power band), feels different... feels like I loose some of that middle power band grunt. It will require testing with your specific motor.

All in all, the rule of thumb, is run your endbell timing to match the size of the track. 40 for a smaller track, 45 for a medium track, and 50 for a large track (just a general recommendation, YMMV). The longer the car spends it's time at max speed of the vehicle, the more endbell timing will help.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:53 AM   #15780
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I have been running the avid revolution ceramics in my front and rear hubs for a year. still super smooth. I was told they would not last as long, but they have. But we have very low dust here.
This is going to be an indoor carpet offroad car, so I will look into the Avid ceramics. Thanks for the advice.
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