scythe23

iTrader: (4)

anyone heard dates on the 3 gear transmission yet?

mel_russ615

iTrader: (3)

it kinda sucks that there's not as many setups for the rear motor b5 vs. the mid b5 on ae website. it's almost like they want you to either buy the mid or convert. i understand that most of the team run the mid motor car but it seems like the rear motor was released and then forgotten. i've committed myself to run the rear motor until i can get the best setup possible. this is my rant but one i feel is probably shared with others. feel free to offer up your opinions on the subject

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

There has been a bunch of setup advice here. Yhe kit setup is not far off.

QuadCamd

iTrader: (2)

i heard like nov 14th

robbie_gtc

iTrader: (7)

I hear you on limited time. I try to get to the track as early as possible and do my testing before quals start.

Also definitely reccomend the AE app. RC Cheat Sheets app. Will help give you a guide of what tuning to try under limited timeframes.

pink_sleeve

iTrader: (220)

Anybody running the xfactory carbon fiber chassis? Looking for any feedback

daveb

iTrader: (4)

I've had mine for awhile now but have only ran it a number of times. I'm just starting to test some things and possibly fine tune it. I just have a hard time leaving my stock M for some reason. I did however race it last week and was pretty happy with it.

slashdad

iTrader: (33)

Gents.
Just bought myself a kit to build. Looking for any tips you gents have gleaned in the last 603 pages and counting on RCTech for the B5M build. Going to run the car on medium traction clay dirt outdoors. 8.5turn motor. ANY SUGGESTIONS and TIPS on the build would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

dan-o

iTrader: (105)

Slash dad.... First page is your Friend. It has all you need! Good luck!

slashdad

iTrader: (33)

Yes it is! Thanks to all for the distillation of all the knowledge on this car.

Got me some research to do.

heinen81

Slash dad, I would recommend addressing the ball cup issue during the initial build. Chuck the ball studs in a cordless and spin them in some scotch brite and make sure they are free. Also when building turnbuckles, I used a drill to run the turnbuckles into the ball cups and then backed them out. Seems to make adjustments easier without ball cups popping off. Remember ball dif adjustment screw should be opposite the motor plate. Also if you are not using front clamp hexes and axles, use a dab of remove able loctite on the screw on the backside of the front axles... They like to back out.

Mason

Build slowly. Think about what you are doing, how things are suppose to go together and how they are suppose to act. Do not just slap it together. Don't RTR it.

spamager

newbie B5 tuning comment/question (6 weeks into driving, 2nd /3rd time on this non-home track)

Scenario
Cold hard clay track indoor w lower jumps and several step up/ down with 180'ish turns after. One long straight (track is R/C Excitement in Fitchburg MA). Car setup 17.5 using black bald barcodes on rear sauced w devil spit and green dirt webs on front. Was at 24mm ride height and middle holes on front shock tops. 35weight oil.
~22% drag brake

Felt like I was cacthing some traction roll. Recommendation was to drop 1mm ride height and move shocks to inner holes on shock towers.
-
Being a newbie I was running higher 19's and 20's on this track consistently over two nights.

After those tweaks in same session I was running low 19's and strings of mid- high 18's.

Question is, how do you get to this logic and troubleshooting tweaks in the best order? Initially because some landings were hard I was thinking of changing shock oil.. Springs (stock setup currently white/green)

Have done reading of the old associated pdf, scanning the hudy manual , etc. But looking to streamline my "tweaking" , not overdue it and know when to just focus on driving.

Other background: before looking at other things I tried some different combinations of tires (all my tires have aka closed cell red) that really kept netting me same lap times. Combos tried: green new dirt webs all around, blue barcodes on back w scrubs or dirt webs on front, black bar codes balded on back w scrubs or dirtwebs on front even flipping scrubs in opposite tread direction.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Not necessarily necessary. You can check to make sure they are free before doing anything with a drill or scotch brite. My build had 0 issues with any ballcups or ballstuds.

Only worry about this if your ballcups cause binding on your ball studs.

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

Yea, I second this. I built my kit and never "prepped" the ballstuds at all and have had zero issues so far (knock on wood)