137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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11-10-2014, 05:15 AM
Hi all,
After a long layoff I've decided to get back into racing and the B5R seems like the perfect fit for this old Team Associated fan boy
I've only managed to read 148 pages so far, so forgive me if this is the most annoyingly common question asked, but is there any rumours of an FT version on the horizon?
Thanks
Smokey
After a long layoff I've decided to get back into racing and the B5R seems like the perfect fit for this old Team Associated fan boy
I've only managed to read 148 pages so far, so forgive me if this is the most annoyingly common question asked, but is there any rumours of an FT version on the horizon?
Thanks
Smokey
11-10-2014, 05:18 AM
I'm on the fence about picking one of these kits up. Have a B4.2 that I have working pretty well along with all the spares and kit that goes with it. I assume some or most of you ran the B4s, looking for some words on how the two compare. Would be going from rear motor B4.2 to mid motor B5. All the fastest guys at my track run mid motor cars, just haven't got the chance to drive one yet. Is it worth selling off the old setup?
11-10-2014, 05:40 AM
They will release it. The newer racers don't realize that the B4 platform was 10 years old, so the only thing they saw was FT editions.
The difference is now the buggy is really good as is. You can add bits and pieces as you go but the only thing you would need is ti turnbuckle.
The difference is now the buggy is really good as is. You can add bits and pieces as you go but the only thing you would need is ti turnbuckle.
11-10-2014, 06:40 AM
Learned allot of things from going down to Trackside to check out the Spektrum Nationals, which were run on a very high bite track. First, B5M's dominated buggy without a doubt and all the guys appeared to be using the flat front arms and Dirt Webz. The one thing that did shock me while checking out Cavalairi's (sp?) BM5, was how out of the box it looked! I see all these pictures of the battery trays hacked apart, esc's stuck to batteries that are run length-wise, ect... and all the winning B5M's down there looked out of the box except for the rear aluminum ball stud mount, aluminum rear hubs, aluminum front pin retainer and a set of clamping hexes.
One question i do have, in regards to the aluminum rear ball stud mount, depending on which way you mount it, is either +2 or -2. On medium bite tracks, does anyone have an idea which way would help the car more? What exactly does raising or lowering the rear ball stud mounting accomplish? thanks!
One question i do have, in regards to the aluminum rear ball stud mount, depending on which way you mount it, is either +2 or -2. On medium bite tracks, does anyone have an idea which way would help the car more? What exactly does raising or lowering the rear ball stud mounting accomplish? thanks!
11-10-2014, 06:45 AM
I rub mine -2 because you can still run 4mm of washers getting the +2 roll center without having to flip the mount. Plus the CG is lower lol
11-10-2014, 06:54 AM
11-10-2014, 07:12 AM
See, roll center. That was what I thought this affected... but all the tips I see out there, is everyone says the looser the track, lower the ball studs. Wouldn't this take away from side bite though? I could see how it would help forward traction, but to get the car to roll over and induce side bite... wouldn't you want to raise the ball studs/roll center to induce a bit more chassis roll?
11-10-2014, 07:24 AM
When ever I lower the link, I feel like side bite is lost. It is one of the things I do when traction rolling and always seems to make it better.
11-10-2014, 08:17 AM
Tech Adept
Raise ballstuds = lower roll center = more chassis roll.
Lower ballstuds = higher roll center = less chassis roll. Raising ballstuds on low grip increases chassis roll which should theoretically increase grip. Sounds like you have roll center and center of gravity a bit mashed up.
Lower ballstuds = higher roll center = less chassis roll. Raising ballstuds on low grip increases chassis roll which should theoretically increase grip. Sounds like you have roll center and center of gravity a bit mashed up.
11-10-2014, 12:16 PM
my poor rm has been on the back burner I think it's time to go ahead and clean her up and get her running again
11-10-2014, 02:16 PM
I'm having a problem with my buggy jumping nose high on some jumps. It's not the jump because some times it will jump level off the same jump. Anyone have any idea if it could be something to do with setup or something I may be doing.
11-10-2014, 02:21 PM
Assuming the jump is consistent across the entire face (big assumption as this is rarely the case), let off the throttle sooner. If the jump is consistent and the car is consistent, then throttle is the variable. Now, if the car was consistently nose high, then maybe stiffer rear suspension or more anti-squat is in order, but that does not sound like the case.
11-10-2014, 02:23 PM
I thought that same thing and I tested that but it was still doing it. I'm certain it's something in the car.
11-10-2014, 02:33 PM
Too many variables. Rm cars do nose up more than mm cars so you jump them differently. 99 pct of the time yourr doing the jump wrong.
11-10-2014, 03:22 PM
Mine did that then I switched to a shorty pack and used the spacer to space it to the forward position. And I have a little drag brake so when I let off in the air it brings it back down.