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Old 09-14-2015, 01:19 PM   #15541
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I say yes on the caged.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:21 PM   #15542
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thanks. I'll try some on next rebuild. Are the bearings smaller? If so will they last as long as std thrust setup ?
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:26 PM   #15543
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I am a big proponent of running caged ceramic thrust assemblies. They don't really wear out, and run a lot smoother. I personally run the avids

The only thing to watch out for, is sometimes they have an overall thickness that is thinner than the stock thrust, which means the bolt will bottom out in the screw before your diff is tight. Simply put a washer on the bolt head to achieve the same overall thickness. Usually not more than .5 mm or 1.0mm.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:26 PM   #15544
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thanks. I'll try some on next rebuild. Are the bearings smaller? If so will they last as long as std thrust setup ?
I have been running the caged thrust for about 8 months. I love not having to deal with those tiny balls and it just makes the diff rebuild easier. But when used with Pucks, I just get goofy results. I ran a steel non carbide version and it was smooth in my stock diff and it lasted a while. So I tried the ceramic thinking it would last forever in my pucks, but the diff is feeling off after a short time. Your mileage may very. I am still on the fence about them.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:28 PM   #15545
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I have been running the caged thrust for about 8 months. I love not having to deal with those tiny balls and it just makes the diff rebuild easier. But when used with Pucks, I just get goofy results. I ran a steel non carbide version and it was smooth in my stock diff and it lasted a while. So I tried the ceramic thinking it would last forever in my pucks, but the diff is feeling off after a short time. Your mileage may very. I am still on the fence about them.
Running a caged thrust has zero to go with running pucks. If your diff is needing a rebuild more often than before, it isn't because you have mated a caged thrust with pucks.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:37 PM   #15546
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Running a caged thrust has zero to go with running pucks. If your diff is needing a rebuild more often than before, it isn't because you have mated a caged thrust with pucks.
Yeah, unsure what the deal is. My diffs when build with the pucks dont last as long. I thought I needed to use the "hat" thrust washer from the pucks with the ceramic thrust, so I did that on this last build, but still didnt last all that long (2 months). Might just be a coincidence. I need to pull it apart and see what is up. it does not feel "gritty" per say, it just feels weird. Kinda wavey. I was good at first, but now feels off. I also used TKO sanded rings and ceramic diff balls on this build. Like I said, I am on the fence. I would really like the caged to be best because it makes relubing and working on the diff nicer.
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Old 09-14-2015, 04:41 PM   #15547
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Yeah, unsure what the deal is. My diffs when build with the pucks dont last as long. I thought I needed to use the "hat" thrust washer from the pucks with the ceramic thrust, so I did that on this last build, but still didnt last all that long (2 months). Might just be a coincidence. I need to pull it apart and see what is up. it does not feel "gritty" per say, it just feels weird. Kinda wavey. I was good at first, but now feels off. I also used TKO sanded rings and ceramic diff balls on this build. Like I said, I am on the fence. I would really like the caged to be best because it makes relubing and working on the diff nicer.
USUALLY a wavy feeling diff means you have an issue with the thrust assembly. For example, if you are missing a thrust ball. It certainly should NOT feel like that... but isn't related to your pucks at all. There is an issue with your diff build.
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Old 09-14-2015, 04:51 PM   #15548
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USUALLY a wavy feeling diff means you have an issue with the thrust assembly. For example, if you are missing a thrust ball. It certainly should NOT feel like that... but isn't related to your pucks at all. There is an issue with your diff build.
The only reason I brought up the pucks is because the "hat" thrust washer from the pucks rebuild kit was no specifically designed to be run with the caged. I also tried to just use the caged thrust washer and no MIP hat, and it seemed "fine". I just didnt like the lack of support for the screw. Matt from MIP said the complete caged thrust "should" be fine. Again, the mip hat thrust is the part of the build I am unsure of
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:24 PM   #15549
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I have been running the caged thrust for about 8 months. I love not having to deal with those tiny balls and it just makes the diff rebuild easier. But when used with Pucks, I just get goofy results. I ran a steel non carbide version and it was smooth in my stock diff and it lasted a while. So I tried the ceramic thinking it would last forever in my pucks, but the diff is feeling off after a short time. Your mileage may very. I am still on the fence about them.
Are you running a slipper eliminator? If so I could see ceramic not holding up as well as the carbide.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:42 PM   #15550
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Are you running a slipper eliminator? If so I could see ceramic not holding up as well as the carbide.
No I use the avid Triad slipper. And I am liberal with the slip. About 1 inch lift.
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Old 09-14-2015, 06:25 PM   #15551
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I never used the HAT from the MIP kit with the larger (stock) size thrust balls. The MIP thrust balls are smaller so I always assumed the grove in their HAT was cut to match.
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:13 PM   #15552
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So guys after browsing through the forum I am trying to reach a decision. B5m or B5m lite. Car will be ran on both high bite and med bite track... Ive heard from several people they are not 100% convinced the lite is always the best option. Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:25 PM   #15553
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I would just get the lite kit myself. Has some of the aluminum stuff in the box already, better bearings, HD rear axles, titanium turnbuckles, and arms everybody was using anyway. Converting to the 4 gear transmission isn't really too expensive if you think you need it. That's what I've done but I run on an outdoor track that's very low grip. And I add ballast to calm the car down and make it easier to drive, my own preference.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:52 PM   #15554
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So guys after browsing through the forum I am trying to reach a decision. B5m or B5m lite. Car will be ran on both high bite and med bite track... Ive heard from several people they are not 100% convinced the lite is always the best option. Thanks in advance!
I have run both and like the lite better.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:12 PM   #15555
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I never used the HAT from the MIP kit with the larger (stock) size thrust balls. The MIP thrust balls are smaller so I always assumed the grove in their HAT was cut to match.
yes, the hat thrust washer is grooved to keep the balls contained. the reason is to prevent them from scoring the inside of the alum outdrive. Since steel is harder than alum. The hat, also fits into a larger than normal opening inside the outdrive to "key" it into place.
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