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Old 09-13-2015, 05:11 PM
  #15526  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Still having a lot of pushing, this thing is a plow.

off power steering is awful, had no mid to exit steering. only had time to mush front shocks a little and battery, it got a little better but not where I need it to be.

I threw down my Serpent and it's worlds of a difference.


Really need help guys.

Thinking the aluminum or brass front bulkhead is needed.
Throw what you have on a setup sheet and post it. Include all the details and the type of track you are running on. I just got spanked by a Serpent my last time out but I also ran door to door with the guy previously. I think pretty much any of the top brand cars are pretty much equally made for the average person. Its all in the building/tuning/driving.
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Old 09-13-2015, 06:52 PM
  #15527  
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My tires were right, the buggy is setup from the box with the plastic c and d blocks.

stock is 3 + 1 right?

I think I found the issue though, looks like the camber block was flipped over with +2 with the 3 mm shims on top of that which I believe would cause my pushing condition.

so I flipped it to -2 added the 3 mm shims and need to drive it again. I'm hoping this fixes the problem.

I bought this buggy from another dude who built it so my fault for not checking that.

I have to put the front shocks back where I had them and retest.

kinda makes sense now. this was really buggin me.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:25 PM
  #15528  
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That is why you totally take it apart and do it yourself. You then know what you have to work with. There could be other things wronge as well.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:41 PM
  #15529  
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Originally Posted by Socket
4 gear? Seriously? Please, in all of your infinite reasoning, why would you downgrade?
4 gear isn't a downgrade, what the heck are you talking about? The 3 gear will torque the chassis towards the front tires on-throttle, and the 4 gear will torque the chassis towards the rear tires on-throttle. 4 gear is likely faster on a very loose track.

Listen, Socket... lay off with your attitude. Be here to help or go elsewhere.
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:24 PM
  #15530  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
caged thrust? mip vs ae diff bolt?
Caged thrust either avid or Schelle, I go back and forth. Mip diff screw, spring and nut.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:23 AM
  #15531  
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Are the caged thrust worth it over the stock thrust setup? Im just asking opinions on it. Also I am going to be running on turf here and there is it better to run a ball diff or a gear diff and what fluid to start with. Running a B5m lite. Any other option parts I may need to run on turf compared to dirt?
Thanks
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Old 09-14-2015, 04:45 AM
  #15532  
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Originally Posted by scr8pn4205
Are the caged thrust worth it over the stock thrust setup? Im just asking opinions on it. Also I am going to be running on turf here and there is it better to run a ball diff or a gear diff and what fluid to start with. Running a B5m lite. Any other option parts I may need to run on turf compared to dirt?
Thanks
For carpet run the gear diff, start with 5k oil.

For the rear get the stock B5m arms, if I remember the B5m Lite comes with the B5 rear arms which shortens the wheel base.

Also worth trying the +4mm rear end with narrow hexes.

MiCk B. :-)
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Old 09-14-2015, 12:19 PM
  #15533  
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I say yes on the caged.
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:21 PM
  #15534  
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thanks. I'll try some on next rebuild. Are the bearings smaller? If so will they last as long as std thrust setup ?
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:26 PM
  #15535  
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I am a big proponent of running caged ceramic thrust assemblies. They don't really wear out, and run a lot smoother. I personally run the avids

The only thing to watch out for, is sometimes they have an overall thickness that is thinner than the stock thrust, which means the bolt will bottom out in the screw before your diff is tight. Simply put a washer on the bolt head to achieve the same overall thickness. Usually not more than .5 mm or 1.0mm.
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:26 PM
  #15536  
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Originally Posted by scr8pn4205
thanks. I'll try some on next rebuild. Are the bearings smaller? If so will they last as long as std thrust setup ?
I have been running the caged thrust for about 8 months. I love not having to deal with those tiny balls and it just makes the diff rebuild easier. But when used with Pucks, I just get goofy results. I ran a steel non carbide version and it was smooth in my stock diff and it lasted a while. So I tried the ceramic thinking it would last forever in my pucks, but the diff is feeling off after a short time. Your mileage may very. I am still on the fence about them.
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:28 PM
  #15537  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I have been running the caged thrust for about 8 months. I love not having to deal with those tiny balls and it just makes the diff rebuild easier. But when used with Pucks, I just get goofy results. I ran a steel non carbide version and it was smooth in my stock diff and it lasted a while. So I tried the ceramic thinking it would last forever in my pucks, but the diff is feeling off after a short time. Your mileage may very. I am still on the fence about them.
Running a caged thrust has zero to go with running pucks. If your diff is needing a rebuild more often than before, it isn't because you have mated a caged thrust with pucks.
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:37 PM
  #15538  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Running a caged thrust has zero to go with running pucks. If your diff is needing a rebuild more often than before, it isn't because you have mated a caged thrust with pucks.
Yeah, unsure what the deal is. My diffs when build with the pucks dont last as long. I thought I needed to use the "hat" thrust washer from the pucks with the ceramic thrust, so I did that on this last build, but still didnt last all that long (2 months). Might just be a coincidence. I need to pull it apart and see what is up. it does not feel "gritty" per say, it just feels weird. Kinda wavey. I was good at first, but now feels off. I also used TKO sanded rings and ceramic diff balls on this build. Like I said, I am on the fence. I would really like the caged to be best because it makes relubing and working on the diff nicer.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:41 PM
  #15539  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Yeah, unsure what the deal is. My diffs when build with the pucks dont last as long. I thought I needed to use the "hat" thrust washer from the pucks with the ceramic thrust, so I did that on this last build, but still didnt last all that long (2 months). Might just be a coincidence. I need to pull it apart and see what is up. it does not feel "gritty" per say, it just feels weird. Kinda wavey. I was good at first, but now feels off. I also used TKO sanded rings and ceramic diff balls on this build. Like I said, I am on the fence. I would really like the caged to be best because it makes relubing and working on the diff nicer.
USUALLY a wavy feeling diff means you have an issue with the thrust assembly. For example, if you are missing a thrust ball. It certainly should NOT feel like that... but isn't related to your pucks at all. There is an issue with your diff build.
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:51 PM
  #15540  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
USUALLY a wavy feeling diff means you have an issue with the thrust assembly. For example, if you are missing a thrust ball. It certainly should NOT feel like that... but isn't related to your pucks at all. There is an issue with your diff build.
The only reason I brought up the pucks is because the "hat" thrust washer from the pucks rebuild kit was no specifically designed to be run with the caged. I also tried to just use the caged thrust washer and no MIP hat, and it seemed "fine". I just didnt like the lack of support for the screw. Matt from MIP said the complete caged thrust "should" be fine. Again, the mip hat thrust is the part of the build I am unsure of
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