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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-29-2015, 12:24 PM   #15361
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Front traction in a 2wd car is not only the suspension and roll center setup, but also driving style and power input. This is where a 4wd driver can have trouble with 2wd.
Exactly where I am having to learn to drive and setup this car. I am so used to 4wd and can get around the track really good with 4wd but 2wd is totally different for me lol
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:02 PM   #15362
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some use it and swear by it. The issue I had was the availability of plastic pinions to make up the size difference. I also didn't require the extra weight over the rear axle. 69 felt like a solid medium on the high grip tracks I raced on.
I have the schelle lockout , not sure i understand about the plastic pinions . I will be using the ss motor which is said to like an fdr a bit higher than other motors , so gearing 30 66 would be 5.7 which is probably ballpark for the motor . Thanks for the reply , does anyone else have input on this matter ?
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Old 08-29-2015, 04:52 PM   #15363
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You should actually be running this ballstud at 0mm or -1mm, not +2. +2 will introduce a LOT of bumpsteer. The kit even has bumpsteer issues when run at 0mm.
I was running the 30 deg kickup and according to the manual I should use 2mm shims on the bumpsteer ballstud. Should I not?
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Old 08-29-2015, 05:02 PM   #15364
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I have the schelle lockout , not sure i understand about the plastic pinions . I will be using the ss motor which is said to like an fdr a bit higher than other motors , so gearing 30 66 would be 5.7 which is probably ballpark for the motor . Thanks for the reply , does anyone else have input on this matter ?
Parma (PSE) makes gears for slot cars that can be used as pinion gears in our application..

Anyone looking to run this type of "pinion", they're actually a spur gear in the slot car world. Koford and Slick7 also make them (higher quality than PSE IMO)

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Old 08-29-2015, 05:05 PM   #15365
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I have the schelle lockout , not sure i understand about the plastic pinions . I will be using the ss motor which is said to like an fdr a bit higher than other motors , so gearing 30 66 would be 5.7 which is probably ballpark for the motor . Thanks for the reply , does anyone else have input on this matter ?
You would have to try it but IIRC when I ran a 66t spur gear the smallest pinion I could get close enough to mesh was a 31. The motor would hit the tranny case, but that was with a 4 gear. The 3 gear tranny may be different, I don't know.
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:37 PM   #15366
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Had an awesome practice day once I got some motor troubles fixed. All the changes added up to a much more controlled buggy that turned in aggressively once I got the weight transferred to the front. Such a difference compared to a heavy push on and off power to be able to get the buggy through a corner with some speed. It is also tracking nice and straight and that makes setting up the jumps so much easier, slowly coming together.

I glued up and used some AKA Typo with their EVO rims and red closed cell foam, I love this setup even better than the track preferred Proline Electron both sets in soft clay compounds. The EVO rims with the Typo's saved about thirty grams a set over the Proline setup, plus they glued up nice and easy with little fuss, a bonus in my book. Sadly, my last pack I was going to run for the day and I get caught up on a pipe, use throttle to get off and grab a nail and tear a rear wheel all the way through! Boo!

I need some help with motor troubles I am having, ruined two and not even sure how I have done so. The first was the one I bought along with the kit and the one suggested by the hobby shop, a Team Powers 17.5. I liked this motor, good torque and worked well at 69\31 to have enough pop to get off the short run up jumps on the current track setup. I ran the timing at about 60% to max and watched temperature each time I took the buggy off the track. Last Sunday, on my last pack no less, the buggy died about ten feet from the staging area and would not move, thought I broke something. Check temp and it is at 141 F. I get back to my pit table and one of the mod racers suggested it might be the sensor board, grabs my buggy and twiddles the solder joints and the sub mount is obviously disconnected. First dead motor.

I grab a Trinity D4 as I am leaving the track\hobby shop as I had read good things about it and always willing to try new things. The Team Powers will take a bit of time to get repaired so I am willing to have a couple backup motors on hand. I spent the better part of three hours trying to get this motor to run and it would not run well, lethargic is best as I can describe it. I tried from 29\69 up through 33\69 and the motor always came off the track in the 110-120 temp range, even with timing maxxed out. It also had the strangest acceleration, almost two stage, it would spin up in a soft manner, and a few seconds into full throttle would hit another level of full throttle making clearing any of the jumps almost impossible. I just looked the motor over and it appears the A lug is lose and wiggles, great another ruined motor it would appear, and it got almost no run time and no serious crashes or hits or even close to over heating.

Disgusted with the Trinity I went and bought another Team Powers, this time in 10.5 turn as I had the need for speed. Holy pewp! That was serious amount of fun! First time coming onto the straight hit full throttle and ripped a wheely for ten feet, was pretty cool. Every jump became too easy, took a couple battery packs to get comfortable using that much brake approaching corners but eventually got it down and was putting down some decent lap times, almost looked like I knew how to drive. The power was seriously addictive, 1/8 scale short course trucks, no trouble, drive right around them or jump clear over them

I will get one more day running the TP 10.5 tomorrow and then back goes the TP 17.5 for the class I will be running some where down the road. That is going to be a bit depressing but also should seem like I have a life time to make line decisions and pick better approaches to the jumps; I might just be lying to myself..
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Old 08-29-2015, 07:54 PM   #15367
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The change of rpm in the D4 you are describing sounds to me like a disconnected sensor wire, or bad board. Trinity honestly is a GREAT motor, I have 3 17.5 D4s. One in my buggy, one in my touring car and one back up. As fast if not faster than anything out there. We have sold over 60 D4s at our store, I think 2 came back with issues, and IIRC it was a sensor board issue.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:06 PM   #15368
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The change of rpm in the D4 you are describing sounds to me like a disconnected sensor wire, or bad board. Trinity honestly is a GREAT motor, I have 3 17.5 D4s. One in my buggy, one in my touring car and one back up. As fast if not faster than anything out there. We have sold over 60 D4s at our store, I think 2 came back with issues, and IIRC it was a sensor board issue.
Any suggestion what to do with the motor? Will Trinity do repairs or warranty work? Never sent anything in with regards to RC in the past but this was a 100.00 motor that got almost zero use and never abused.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:09 PM   #15369
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Any suggestion what to do with the motor? Will Trinity do repairs or warranty work? Never sent anything in with regards to RC in the past but this was a 100.00 motor that got almost zero use and never abused.
Of course they will do warranty work. I believe they include all the info in the box your motor came in. If you believe that's the issue then contact them.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:13 PM   #15370
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Of course they will do warranty work. I believe they include all the info in the box your motor came in. If you believe that's the issue then contact them.

Thanks for the feedback I'll contact them on Monday and see how this is handled.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:59 PM   #15371
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You would have to try it but IIRC when I ran a 66t spur gear the smallest pinion I could get close enough to mesh was a 31. The motor would hit the tranny case, but that was with a 4 gear. The 3 gear tranny may be different, I don't know.
Thanks , good info , will try fit it up and see what the go is . Will report my findings
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:07 AM   #15372
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Spent some time at the track yesterday, I had an issue with sort of extreme push that I received some advice on here. I didn't actually make too many changes, I just did two things; added some preload to the front and moved the shorty battery pack forward. I also worked my tires a little better cleaning with simple green and saucing more religiously. I cut over a second from my best lap and my average lap times were improved dramatically. I know there is some more room for improvement, but I finally felt like my driving was the limiting factor and not so much the buggy.

I'm going to work on replacing the Proline Electrons with Gold Dirtwebs on the front like I have in the rear... Although, I did think it was funny, some people told me not to mix rubber front and rear and looking at the pros at OCRC this weekend, like everyone was running mixed sets... haha... I know, I'm no pro, just a newbie trying to figure it all out, keeping it simple.

One Question:

I feel like my buggy is too heavy, I weighed in at 1565g with a trakpower 4500mah 2s shorty... Any advice for what things I can do to reduce weight? I really thought my buggy would be lighter than this. Is there any information on a list of weight saving upgrades sorted by effectiveness or a prioritized list of items that lower weight.
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Old 08-30-2015, 11:04 AM   #15373
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Spent some time at the track yesterday, I had an issue with sort of extreme push that I received some advice on here. I didn't actually make too many changes, I just did two things; added some preload to the front and moved the shorty battery pack forward. I also worked my tires a little better cleaning with simple green and saucing more religiously. I cut over a second from my best lap and my average lap times were improved dramatically. I know there is some more room for improvement, but I finally felt like my driving was the limiting factor and not so much the buggy.

I'm going to work on replacing the Proline Electrons with Gold Dirtwebs on the front like I have in the rear... Although, I did think it was funny, some people told me not to mix rubber front and rear and looking at the pros at OCRC this weekend, like everyone was running mixed sets... haha... I know, I'm no pro, just a newbie trying to figure it all out, keeping it simple.

One Question:

I feel like my buggy is too heavy, I weighed in at 1565g with a trakpower 4500mah 2s shorty... Any advice for what things I can do to reduce weight? I really thought my buggy would be lighter than this. Is there any information on a list of weight saving upgrades sorted by effectiveness or a prioritized list of items that lower weight.
That's not all that heavy really. But if you're looking to get down around minimum weight (1499g), then you could knock off about 20 with an aluminum screw set, 7 with a carbon motor plate, about 8 with MIP bimetal pucks, and about 15 with a slipper eliminator. Those last 2 are assuming you're running 17.5, they're not good ideas in mod. That also assumed you already have the lite chassis. You could drop a significant amount of weight with a carbon chassis. You'll get mixed reviews for them though. 2.4 wheels and tires also drop a good bit of rotating mass.
Also, different people have different experiences with mixing rubbers. I did it all winter, and I noticed that it would lose a little steering throughout the run as the sauce wore off, so I set it up loose to begin with. Then the car would become neutral later in the main when my reaction times were fading as well. Best of luck!
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Old 08-30-2015, 12:08 PM   #15374
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One Question:

I feel like my buggy is too heavy, I weighed in at 1565g with a trakpower 4500mah 2s shorty... Any advice for what things I can do to reduce weight? I really thought my buggy would be lighter than this. Is there any information on a list of weight saving upgrades sorted by effectiveness or a prioritized list of items that lower weight.
I was able to get a car down to almost 1400 w/o ditching the battery strap. Its all about how much money you want to spend. Trackpower makes a 3250 90C lipo that will bring your weight down to around 1500....maybe a little less. For $65-70 that's your best bang for the buck. I found my cars feel best at 1530+ and I run stock. Anything more than 17.5 is for fun, no racing. I don't find 1565 to be that bad.
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Old 08-30-2015, 12:38 PM   #15375
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Anybody have experience with RDRP products? Looking to try an aluminum front bulkhead,was curious on the quality of RDRP. Might just stick with the FT version but I like the option of adjustability with the RDRP.
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