Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread >

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree54Likes

Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 03-09-2017, 12:23 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Quick link to the front page

First Page

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-27-2015, 09:46 AM
  #15301  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (146)
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,355
Trader Rating: 146 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Fasttrak
I had picked up a Trinity D4 17.5 SS to replace the Team Powers but the end bell is very odd and it only clocks to three positions and none had the soldering lugs in good locations, praying the hobby shop will take it back for something else.
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...



if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):

RC*PHREAK is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 12:33 PM
  #15302  
Tech Master
 
Dino_D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Markham
Posts: 1,176
Default

Originally Posted by tekin112000
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
I can tell you the ballcups in the B5M lite were pretty good and had more movement, but the ones on the SC5M never needed any work. Even after a whole day of racing, it's movement is free. I am assuming they must have changed their molds to have better tolerances, but I am not sure if there will be a new part number for that or that they are revising the new ballcups with the same part numbers.
Dino_D is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 12:34 PM
  #15303  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: N Cal
Posts: 283
Default

Originally Posted by Sean B.
You need to rotate the end of the can to get proper alignment. Not the end bell side, the shaft side.

Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
the part of the trinity motor that touches the motor plate can be rotated for better alignment and wiring.

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...
if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):
Thanks to all three for the followup and feedback. Yeah, once the first post hit it was a palm to forehead moment. At that point it was obvious I was tackling the problem from one side and never even considered clocking the output shaft side of the motor. Have not bothered to solder up the Trinity, but am positive it will mate up no trouble once I get both ends of the motor clocked correctly. I might just bring the soldering station with me and test out this old Novak 13.5, see how well it performs against the more modern timeable brushless that are available now.



Originally Posted by tekin112000
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
They must have made some changes in the recent past as the kit I just built, new stock of the B5M Lite, the ballcups mounted up nicely to the ballstuds. After a few battery packs they are moving very freely and I would not want them any looser than they already are. Might be worth it to try a package of the newest release, even if they have the same part #. Order from some one like Amain who goes through stock rapidly to be certain you are getting the most current inventory. Compared to ballcup and studs from a decade ago, you always had to upgrade to RPM to have a good match and those required effort to get them to move freely on the ballstuds.
Fasttrak is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 01:01 PM
  #15304  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NoVa
Posts: 341
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dino_D
I can tell you the ballcups in the B5M lite were pretty good and had more movement, but the ones on the SC5M never needed any work. Even after a whole day of racing, it's movement is free. I am assuming they must have changed their molds to have better tolerances, but I am not sure if there will be a new part number for that or that they are revising the new ballcups with the same part numbers.
I have the B5M lite kit, they all needed a bit of tweaking to get free play.

Thanks for suggesting the idea of getting a new set at a high turnover place like A-main.
tekin112000 is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 02:30 PM
  #15305  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (31)
 
racer1812's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 15,480
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...



if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):

I can't believe you would post pics like that, proving you're human!
racer1812 is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 04:02 PM
  #15306  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: El Mirage, AZ, USA
Posts: 1,474
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tekin112000
How have your ballcups been behaving? When I first build the kit I had t do the old pinch with pliers trick to get free movement on the turnbuckles.

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.

Now they don't seem so smooth some needed to be re-squeezed with pliers to get free movement.

Have any of you bought ballcups from Associated lately, have they gotten better?

Does the squeeze last or do the ballcups snap back to original tight shape?
I just got a new Associated ball cup set for a new set of gold turnbuckles from SMC and to my surprise they snapped on and moved freely with no pinching whatsoever! They not only flopped by the weight of the arms, one of them flopped by the weight of itself. I would twist the tierod and it would twist back. Awesome... I knew it was going to be a running change and those cups are now getting out from the factory. So that should mean they will start showing up in the kits too.
Bubonic-X is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 06:46 PM
  #15307  
R/C Tech Elite Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (40)
 
RCBuddha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,094
Trader Rating: 40 (100%+)
Default

Blue chassis protector

Black Chassis Protector
RCBuddha is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 08:09 PM
  #15308  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 226
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i know it's been said, but it's always better with pictures...



if you take out those three screws and rotate that piece so that it is aligned like it is in that pic, your solder tabs will face up, like this (for the anal retentive and OCD'ers, yes, it's not a great solder job, but my buggy is a rocket, and now that i'm looking at it, i'll probably re-do it):

This would be no bueno
BrandonBreh is offline  
Old 08-27-2015, 08:15 PM
  #15309  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,085
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BrandonBreh
This would be no bueno
yep, that's a fried motor waiting to happen.
Cpt.America is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 04:26 AM
  #15310  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (146)
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,355
Trader Rating: 146 (100%+)
Default

Even with a disclaimer, people just can't help themselves.

Once I saw the picture up close I debated about whether to post the pics because I knew the wise guys would flock to it like flies on shite. I ended up saying F-it. If I can help the guy I'll deal with those with no impulse control.

My only regret is that my solder job will only be seen by AE guys. Losi, Kyosho, HB, and Tamiya finger pointers and know it alls are missing out. Maybe the pic should be ripped from this thread and be posted as its own thread in all electric forums as an example of how not to solder.
RC*PHREAK is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 05:09 AM
  #15311  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 184
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

This wins the internet for today!

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Even with a disclaimer, people just can't help themselves.

Once I saw the picture up close I debated about whether to post the pics because I knew the wise guys would flock to it like flies on shite. I ended up saying F-it. If I can help the guy I'll deal with those with no impulse control.

My only regret is that my solder job will only be seen by AE guys. Losi, Kyosho, HB, and Tamiya finger pointers and know it alls are missing out. Maybe the pic should be ripped from this thread and be posted as its own thread in all electric forums as an example of how not to solder.
BigReade is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 05:25 AM
  #15312  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,938
Trader Rating: 81 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BigReade
This wins the internet for today!
Just wait, the day isn't completely over yet.
Kraig is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 07:09 AM
  #15313  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tekin112000

Since then I popped them off a few times to reset a couple things.
There is literally NO reason a ball cup should ever be popped off on a B5M.

Use a 2mm wrench on the ballstud.
Socket is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 07:11 AM
  #15314  
Suspended
iTrader: (61)
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,121
Trader Rating: 61 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
Even with a disclaimer, people just can't help themselves.

Once I saw the picture up close I debated about whether to post the pics because I knew the wise guys would flock to it like flies on shite. I ended up saying F-it. If I can help the guy I'll deal with those with no impulse control.

My only regret is that my solder job will only be seen by AE guys. Losi, Kyosho, HB, and Tamiya finger pointers and know it alls are missing out. Maybe the pic should be ripped from this thread and be posted as its own thread in all electric forums as an example of how not to solder.
$5 says no one mentions the gross looking puck.

Or the hammered fan wiring...tape, really?
Socket is offline  
Old 08-28-2015, 07:42 AM
  #15315  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (146)
 
RC*PHREAK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 5,355
Trader Rating: 146 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Socket
$5 says no one mentions the gross looking puck.

Or the hammered fan wiring...tape, really?

Puck? Probably went a bit overboard with the grease. On my first set I didn't use any grease and they got hammered quick. Grease over compensation this time, but they're holding up much better.

Fan wiring? Guilty. Duct tape? If you don't have it somewhere on your ride, you're doing it wrong.

You really want your mind blown? Ask me to post a pic of the rats nest of a wiring job.
RC*PHREAK is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.