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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:05 PM   #15166
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Running the 2.2 associated rims
Make sure you have the proper shims behind the caster block if you changed the trailing axle adjustment from the no. 4 insert. See chart. If you move axle to 3mm or 2mm trailing, you need to change the shims behind the caster block. this can be causing your problems.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:19 PM   #15167
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Oh ok sorry I read it wrong then. My track is medium traction during the day and can be high at night. It is a outdoor track that I go to and sometimes indoor. I have been running my stock slipper pretty tight so I doubt it is even doing anything lol

Edit: Exotek updated their site and shows it in stock so I ordered it. DO I need to get the kimbrough spurs also or can the stock ones be used?
you need kimbrough gears with the exotek part.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:21 PM   #15168
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Does it really matter which side of the drivetrain the bolt head of the diff thrust bolt is on? Manual says to put it on the spur gear side.

Just finished my build and noticed I did this incorrectly, but didn't want to tear it down and rebuild it, if it's not necessary.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:25 PM   #15169
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I have the same problem on my B5 and just assumed it was normal...? Both sides too.

I've got a 2mm spacer on the ballstud, so maybe that's it?
You should actually be running this ballstud at 0mm or -1mm, not +2. +2 will introduce a LOT of bumpsteer. The kit even has bumpsteer issues when run at 0mm.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:26 PM   #15170
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Does it really matter which side of the drivetrain the bolt head of the diff thrust bolt is on? Manual says to put it on the spur gear side.

Just finished my build and noticed I did this incorrectly, but didn't want to tear it down and rebuild it, if it's not necessary.
It's MUCH easier to get to and work on if the head of the bolt is on the passenger side, but it doesn't actually matter once you're running. (edit:... not sure how they recommend for the lite kit... the standard 4gear that I run, we run opposite side from the spur)
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:26 PM   #15171
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Does it really matter which side of the drivetrain the bolt head of the diff thrust bolt is on? Manual says to put it on the spur gear side.

Just finished my build and noticed I did this incorrectly, but didn't want to tear it down and rebuild it, if it's not necessary.
It does not matter. Whichever side is easier to adjust from for you will be fine.

Now here come all the comments saying it has to be on the "correct" side because it will loosen during driving if not...If that's the case then it will also tighten from being installed the "correct" way during driving....
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:30 PM   #15172
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you need kimbrough gears with the exotek part.
That's one of the great advantages of running the exotek elim kit... you get to run kimbrough spurs. I think they make the best spurs on the market. Love my kimbroughs.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:34 PM   #15173
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Thanks for the responses guys. I can access it on the driver's side as well, and for the 3 gear seems to be pretty easy to access. I was more concerned as to whether or not it can actually loosen or tighten depending on side, but I haven't thought of a way yet where the diff can tighten or loosen under normal driving conditions.
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Old 08-19-2015, 03:45 PM   #15174
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Thanks for the responses guys. I can access it on the driver's side as well, and for the 3 gear seems to be pretty easy to access. I was more concerned as to whether or not it can actually loosen or tighten depending on side, but I haven't thought of a way yet where the diff can tighten or loosen under normal driving conditions.
I would imagine it is possible if you REALLY REALLY diff out the car. I.e., are high centered, but one wheel is touching the ground... and you go full throttle. In that case, the center diff gear and one outdrive spin at really high speed while the other sits still... you could generate enough friction on the thrust assembly to actually move the bolt inside the lock nut. Would still take quite the scenario to pull off. I myself, am always very careful to keep my diffs in great shape, and if I ever do high center, im careful pulling the trigger.

I am actually running my diff backwards right now, on accident. Forgot to pay attention to it's orientation last rebuild... zero issues two full track days later.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:11 PM   #15175
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
you need kimbrough gears with the exotek part.
Thanks a lot! I will see if the LHS has them

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That's one of the great advantages of running the exotek elim kit... you get to run kimbrough spurs. I think they make the best spurs on the market. Love my kimbroughs.
That's great! Nice to know they are still high quality! I used to run them in a Bolink car back in the early 90's lol.
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Old 08-19-2015, 04:43 PM   #15176
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That's one of the great advantages of running the exotek elim kit... you get to run kimbrough spurs. I think they make the best spurs on the market. Love my kimbroughs.
Is it still 4-40 screws?
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:33 PM   #15177
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It does not matter. Whichever side is easier to adjust from for you will be fine.

Now here come all the comments saying it has to be on the "correct" side because it will loosen during driving if not...If that's the case then it will also tighten from being installed the "correct" way during driving....
You know what's funny is I recently replaced the puck outdrives on my B5M and screwed up and put thr bolt head on the driver's side. The diff loostened after the first pack. I tightened it back up and it hasn't loostened since. At first I was like "oh no they were right". Then I figured it was just because I put more diff lube in and it would've loostened after that first pack regardless. Put it this way, I'm not pulling the diff to switch it.
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:12 PM   #15178
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
I have the same problem on my B5 and just assumed it was normal...? Both sides too.

I've got a 2mm spacer on the ballstud, so maybe that's it?
Just thought of something else that might cause this...

Is it possible that you have the 4mm tailing inserts in backwards, pushing the axle way forward?
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Old 08-19-2015, 06:15 PM   #15179
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Just thought of something else that might cause this...

Is it possible that you have the 4mm tailing inserts in backwards, pushing the axle way forward?
That still shouldn't cause this...that's a tuning option and should not cause the wheels to rub.
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Old 08-19-2015, 08:26 PM   #15180
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You should not be running any spacers on the steering spindle. The AE guys actually dremel down the spindle 1mm to achieve zero bumpsteer.
Thanks. I don't know why I had spacers on there actually. Sucks, 'cause my buggy was dialed (for me), now I have to go through setup again.

Even after removing the spacers, it's super darn close. I'll have to put on new ballcups to be sure, but it looks like it would be pretty close. I have the 3mm insert and the caster block spaced in the middle. I am running the spindle mounted high in the block with 91403, so that's probably it.
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