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Old 08-12-2015, 07:16 PM   #15031
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DID YOU WATCH THE VIDEO ON 1ST PAGE, IT WORKS AWSOME DID MINE FIRST TIME AND IT WAS BUTTER SMOOTH WITH ALL BOX PARTS
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:52 PM   #15032
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So today I took all the bearings out of my car and took the rubber seals off and used a RPM bearing blaster to clean them out. There was a lot of grease in each one and they wouldn't spin for long when testing them before. I took the ones out of the transmission also and did a full cleaning of it and used the graphite power and Avid Slip bearing oil and put it all together and WOW what a difference. It spins so easy and smooth now. I am hoping this helps with motor temps and giving me the low end punch I need to!
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:05 PM   #15033
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Been doing it for several hours now....
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:11 PM   #15034
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T-Work’s have released this line of shock bushings for Team Associated RC10 B5/B5M 1/10th buggy. Made from hard coated 7075-T6 aluminum they come in a set of 4 and are a direct replacement for the kit versions.


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Mckune Design have released their new simple Low Centre of Gravity shorty weight plate. The plates are made from super thin .75mm thick brushed stainless steel, yet still weigh 25 grams each. They will fit under any 2S shorty LiPo and can be stacked for additional weight.
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:16 PM   #15035
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Wow that's really nice! I have been looking at new shock bushings for mine. Mostly for the looks and longevity
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:32 PM   #15036
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I use the avid shock bushings. I like the black with silver etching
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:39 PM   #15037
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Hi guys. I am new to off-road racing. Just got a B5M and want to set it up. What would be a good gear ratio? I am running 17.5 Stock on a medium sized clay indoor track. And what about the shock oil? Thanks for any suggestions.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:04 PM   #15038
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Hi guys. I am new to off-road racing. Just got a B5M and want to set it up. What would be a good gear ratio? I am running 17.5 Stock on a medium sized clay indoor track. And what about the shock oil? Thanks for any suggestions.
You can get some really good feedback from the folks in this forum, the trouble is they can only give you ballpark guesstimations on the size of your track, how rough the surface is and what would be "best".

Your best bet is asking folks that have their cars dialed in at the track you will be running at. They have done all the trial and error for you for the surface you will be running on, the gear ratio that works for them in 17.5 (this I found will still require some tweaking as everyone's driving style differs ever so slightly and how you want that power to hit is pretty important).

I would get the car ready and hit the track, pick the folks brain you see running good lines and their car seems dialed, rotates well, has good jumping manners and seems to be dialed in already. Most of these will be happy to share their setups, rarely do I find some one unwilling to help me out at the track I run at.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:19 PM   #15039
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Hi guys. I am new to off-road racing. Just got a B5M and want to set it up. What would be a good gear ratio? I am running 17.5 Stock on a medium sized clay indoor track. And what about the shock oil? Thanks for any suggestions.
Depends on the type of 17.5. 69/31-32 is probably an ok place to start for almost any 17.5 but might not be ideal for your track. Crack open the manual. AEs manual setups are pretty good.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:43 PM   #15040
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So I broke in my diff but...
I'll just leave this here.



That is the bfast break in method. Follow it exactly.
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:49 PM   #15041
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I did my diff exactly like the manual said when I built my car but it seems a tad to tight still. I am going to try the bfast way and see if there is a difference.
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:03 PM   #15042
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Default My setup as requested

I run this outside and it's great. Track goes from hot and loamy and unable to really retain moisture on the surface to grooved and potentially moist at night. I run paddled modded m3 holeshots with open cell foam when the track is super slippery, dusty, and hot, then m4 holeshots with blue closed cell when the sun goes down, and if the track gets in shape, m4 electrons with blue closed cell foam. Let me be clear that I am not advocating open cell foam, I just don't feel like wasting money on closed cell inserts when you want a softer foam anyway and nobody's really pushing their tires to the edge of deforming on a super slick track.

Please note that if I were to run inside, I would go to low mount +3mm and 1 thin pad forward battery as my starting point. This is an outdoor variant of my normal setup.
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Old 08-13-2015, 09:04 AM   #15043
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I run this outside and it's great. Track goes from hot and loamy and unable to really retain moisture on the surface to grooved and potentially moist at night. I run paddled modded m3 holeshots with open cell foam when the track is super slippery, dusty, and hot, then m4 holeshots with blue closed cell when the sun goes down, and if the track gets in shape, m4 electrons with blue closed cell foam. Let me be clear that I am not advocating open cell foam, I just don't feel like wasting money on closed cell inserts when you want a softer foam anyway and nobody's really pushing their tires to the edge of deforming on a super slick track.

Please note that if I were to run inside, I would go to low mount +3mm and 1 thin pad forward battery as my starting point. This is an outdoor variant of my normal setup.

Thank you much!!! roar race here in town Saturday we will see if this works for me as well.
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Old 08-13-2015, 10:38 AM   #15044
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I run this outside and it's great. Track goes from hot and loamy and unable to really retain moisture on the surface to grooved and potentially moist at night. I run paddled modded m3 holeshots with open cell foam when the track is super slippery, dusty, and hot, then m4 holeshots with blue closed cell when the sun goes down, and if the track gets in shape, m4 electrons with blue closed cell foam. Let me be clear that I am not advocating open cell foam, I just don't feel like wasting money on closed cell inserts when you want a softer foam anyway and nobody's really pushing their tires to the edge of deforming on a super slick track.

Please note that if I were to run inside, I would go to low mount +3mm and 1 thin pad forward battery as my starting point. This is an outdoor variant of my normal setup.
Interesting that u run the outer hole on the rear camber link. Doesn't that make the car oversteer?
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:46 AM   #15045
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Interesting that u run the outer hole on the rear camber link. Doesn't that make the car oversteer?
Nope. It's only a "half hole" longer than the A middle. The standard hole is A middle, the B outer is a half hole longer, B inner is half hole shorter.

What it does is take away high speed corner apex traction and add low speed traction, which is actually very helpful.

As the car chassis rolls hard, such as in a sharp apex at speed, where you would want rotation, it makes the tire hold LESS contact patch because the camber gain is less,. This makes the car's rear slide and the car rotate more. As you get pointed in the right direction and start leveling out, the car hooks up MORE. This is why it doesn't oversteer—it hooks back up with authority when you want to go. The rotation of the car is much more fluid, controllable, and predictable.

To understand why, you have to familiarize yourself with what camber gain does (the length of your link, best adjusted at the hub to not mess with roll center.) More camber gain will make the top of the rear tires tuck in on power when going straight. That removes contact patch when your rear end squats going straight, for less net traction if you're pointed in the right direction, such as when you're done rotating in a corner. At the same time, when you're either hard in the apex of a corner, or accelerating out HARD, the chassis is rolled and the camber gain makes the tire lean more straight up and down, instead of leaning out so much, which adds contact patch and traction. The inverse is true: less camber gain gives you more straight line traction and less traction when your car is rolled hard.

The down side of running a longer link with less camber gain is that if you run enough droop, or simply just get on it hard enough, you can break traction once you're hooked up exiting a corner hard, but in my experience, this is NOT the case on the b5m generally. I've gone back and fourth on that hole and really prefer the B out hole in all situations. It just feels more controllable everywhere.

Wayne
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