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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:07 PM   #15001
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Got my B5M all built and need to break in the diff. This is my first time breaking one in for a 2wd buggy and people I know have had all sorts of problems with theirs so I want to do it right the first time.

The only thing I have done is tightened thrust bolt just enough so I could no longer spin the gear by hand while holding the outdrives with two wrenches. I shyed away from tightening it all the way down and backing it off slightly like the manual says because people say you shouldn't do that. My slipper is set with the shaft flush with the nut like the manual says as well.

So far is this correct? I know a lot of people say it goes by "feel" but since I have never done it before I obviously don't know the feeling. When i hold the spur gear and spin the rear wheels it feels a little gritty but still smooth.
You still need to break in the diff, put the wheels on and spin one side of the car by holding the other side. Do this for 5-10 seconds each side a couple times, (with little throttle) and you should be set to go. Only used a little throttle when breaking it in.

Here is a better explanation: "How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch"

Also most go by feel or the flick test. With moderate force spin each wheel opposite direction of each other, and it should turn about 1/2 turn (make a black sharpie mark on the wheel to make this easier). And you should be set to go!
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:38 PM   #15002
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less grip more flex, is generally the rule, on low bite the flexing of the chassis helps to gain a little more grip and the car won't snap too bad (hard bite at end of turn). But on high traction, you want a stiffer chassis because you already have enough grip and if you have a flexing chassis, the car will want to snap and do weird things on the exit of the turn.
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:33 PM   #15003
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Originally Posted by Fanatic01 View Post
Got my B5M all built and need to break in the diff. This is my first time breaking one in for a 2wd buggy and people I know have had all sorts of problems with theirs so I want to do it right the first time.

The only thing I have done is tightened thrust bolt just enough so I could no longer spin the gear by hand while holding the outdrives with two wrenches. I shyed away from tightening it all the way down and backing it off slightly like the manual says because people say you shouldn't do that. My slipper is set with the shaft flush with the nut like the manual says as well.

So far is this correct? I know a lot of people say it goes by "feel" but since I have never done it before I obviously don't know the feeling. When i hold the spur gear and spin the rear wheels it feels a little gritty but still smooth.
Build per manual, tighten down then back off 1/8 turn. Then I followup with running under power with one wheel on the table and running under 1/4 power then switch to other wheel. once done, tighten diff and back off 1/8. done!
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:53 PM   #15004
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Build per manual, tighten down then back off 1/8 turn. Then I followup with running under power with one wheel on the table and running under 1/4 power then switch to other wheel. once done, tighten diff and back off 1/8. done!
ok, I do this also...but. What does spinning each side do? I suspect nothing. because the balls are rolling on both plated and cutting a groove. Even if you just lift one side. That being said, I do like you do, only because it makes me feel better, lol
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Old 08-11-2015, 02:57 PM   #15005
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ok, I do this also...but. What does spinning each side do? I suspect nothing. because the balls are rolling on both plated and cutting a groove. Even if you just lift one side. That being said, I do like you do, only because it makes me feel better, lol
It helps to seat everything. I tighten after each set of running in while holding a wheel. Always tighten to the final diff setting, never loosen to the final setting.
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:02 PM   #15006
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What I did is the way the manual states. I then broke it in by holding each wheel with little throttle for about 10-15sec and then I run a few laps on the track and tighten down then back off the 1/8 turn and mine is super smooth and has been doing great.
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:20 PM   #15007
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It helps to seat everything. I tighten after each set of running in while holding a wheel. Always tighten to the final diff setting, never loosen to the final setting.
yes, I work my way up also. Start loose and break in then tighten. repeat until it is good.
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Old 08-11-2015, 03:36 PM   #15008
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Default Set Screw Size - rear Aluminum Hubs

What size is the set screw for the rear Aluminum Hubs ? is it the M3 x 3mm ?
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:51 PM   #15009
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What size is the set screw for the rear Aluminum Hubs ? is it the M3 x 3mm ?

Not sure on the Avid or shelle but on the Associated aluminum rear hubs the grub screw size to hold the pin is a 3 X 3 mm.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:02 PM   #15010
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Any reason to not put on a graphite front shock tower. I don't like the looks of the associated shock tower.
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:17 PM   #15011
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Gull Wing or B5 front on low traction hard packed clay.

I feel that my car pushes but bought it setup for indoor clay.
Will the stock setup help with this?
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:16 PM   #15012
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got my b5m lite pretty much done being built, nothing missing and everything went together good.rear arms are a little tight and the damn ball studs are super snug.Figure they would have gotten those down little better a year later.Cant wait to run it
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Old 08-12-2015, 12:07 AM   #15013
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got my b5m lite pretty much done being built, nothing missing and everything went together good.rear arms are a little tight and the damn ball studs are super snug.Figure they would have gotten those down little better a year later.Cant wait to run it
If the ballcups are really tight on the ballstuds, i wouldn't count on them freeing up. You will need to pinch them with pliers to free them up. See post #1.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:41 AM   #15014
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Hi all,
I plan to build a car for low grip tracks
Do you think that B5M lite with a 4 gear box is a good idea ?
What part do I need exactly, a 4 gear box and an idler gear?
Thank's for your help
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:40 AM   #15015
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Hi all,
I plan to build a car for low grip tracks
Do you think that B5M lite with a 4 gear box is a good idea ?
What part do I need exactly, a 4 gear box and an idler gear?
Thank's for your help
I run a b5m light w/ 4 gear on a really low traction outdoor track and it's great.

You'll need an idler gear, idler pin, idler bearings, heavy top shaft, heavy top shaft bearings, heavy top shaft thrust tube, 4 gear motor plate, and 4 gear gear cover.

EDIT: The heavy top shaft items won't be needed if using a V2 4 gear gear box. I had a V1 laying around and those are the parts I had to use.

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