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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:27 AM   #14986
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The esc needs to stay in blinky mode. Adding timing to the motor is perfectly legal.
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:29 AM   #14987
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The esc needs to stay in blinky mode. Adding timing to the motor is perfectly legal.
Perfect.

Ok ill try that. Thank you for all the help with the novice questions.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:48 PM   #14988
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Perfect.

Ok ill try that. Thank you for all the help with the novice questions.
Were you able to resolve the random control issues you posted about the other day? Curious what it ended up being.
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Old 08-11-2015, 01:48 AM   #14989
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Were you able to resolve the random control issues you posted about the other day? Curious what it ended up being.
I haven't had a chance to drive it again. I did program the esc. I tried the timing today but when I turned the dial the screws wouldn't go in. It looks like there are only one set of screw holes for the end cap. I'm not really sure how to get them back in outside of leaving the motor with "neutral" timing. I will post back with results.
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Old 08-11-2015, 05:06 AM   #14990
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Don't pull the screws all the way out. Just loosen them, rotate the end cap, and snug them back up. It might be fairly firm to rotate. I have had a couple of motors where it was fairly challenging and I needed to use a bit of umph to get them to move.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:10 AM   #14991
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So Cav didn't use a lite, just a regular kit with a 3 gear tranny. My mind is blown again.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:31 AM   #14992
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So Cav didn't use a lite, just a regular kit with a 3 gear tranny. My mind is blown again.
My guess is to keep a lower center of gravity, due to the super high bite, to limit potential traction rolling.

He ran brass weight in his T5M as well under the battery, and a brass rear toe block on his SC5M.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:53 AM   #14993
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Yea I thought there might be something. advantageous to not having a light weight chassis on a hight bite track.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:06 AM   #14994
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the advantage was he felt more comfortable with it. Whether or not a lite kit would have been better based on physics and math could still be debated but we need not. Just know that one man, prepared himself and his car to be the pinnacle of all other challengers.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:15 AM   #14995
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Comes down to proper set-up but most importantly, driving skill. Practice, practice and more practice. All the aftermarket items look cool but just learning to drive is 90% of the game.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:57 AM   #14996
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I watched all of the mains on sunday. It came down to this.....Cav didnt crash, everyone else did. Rivkin, Phend and others kept catching him....but then they crashed. His smooth driving won. Period. He didnt have the "fastest" car, but he was the smoothest. Like we also say, all the parts in the world dont matter if you are crashing.
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:02 AM   #14997
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I watched all of the mains on sunday. It came down to this.....Cav didnt crash, everyone else did. Rivkin, Phend and others kept catching him....but then they crashed. His smooth driving won. Period. He didnt have the "fastest" car, but he was the smoothest. Like we also say, all the parts in the world dont matter if you are crashing.
ding ding ding, we have a winner
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:05 AM   #14998
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My guess is to keep a lower center of gravity, due to the super high bite, to limit potential traction rolling.

He ran brass weight in his T5M as well under the battery, and a brass rear toe block on his SC5M.
The standard chassis had 2 advantages. Heavier and less flex. Which are advantageous on super high bite.

They ran brass under the shorties because square lipos aren't roar legal and Saddle packs are a hassle. Hartson still ran a saddle tho.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:49 AM   #14999
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Vote, is flex good or bad on high bite traction, like say carpet?
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:03 PM   #15000
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Got my B5M all built and need to break in the diff. This is my first time breaking one in for a 2wd buggy and people I know have had all sorts of problems with theirs so I want to do it right the first time.

The only thing I have done is tightened thrust bolt just enough so I could no longer spin the gear by hand while holding the outdrives with two wrenches. I shyed away from tightening it all the way down and backing it off slightly like the manual says because people say you shouldn't do that. My slipper is set with the shaft flush with the nut like the manual says as well.

So far is this correct? I know a lot of people say it goes by "feel" but since I have never done it before I obviously don't know the feeling. When i hold the spur gear and spin the rear wheels it feels a little gritty but still smooth.
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