sgtlt

iTrader: (5)

just got one for a back up car, also when traction is low on our track.

sgtlt

iTrader: (5)

will a B6 body fit on the B5 ?

mick33b4

iTrader: (14)

Follow this. BEST setup guide for any platform. All on one sheet.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb5/B5M_RayMunday_SetupGuide201503/

TC5Driven

iTrader: (13)

From what I understand no.

sgtlt

iTrader: (5)

tried mine, not as tight of a fit in the front but it's looks like it will work fine

SLO county race

iTrader: (10)

So I finally got a chance to get my buggy onto the track last Friday and man what a difference! Before I was using a FT b4 with a Novak gtb 17.5 and was running about an average off low 19's with a fast if 18.3. Now with the B5mfl, justock esc with a reedy 17.5 and 3 gear trans with the nova slipper. I was averaging mid to low 18s with a fast lap of 17.6. I'm going back again this Friday and will be club racing. I'm looking for a bit more rear traction and was thinking about getting some Positron rear tires. Currently I'm running posi fronts and electron rears with 3 batteries though them. Any other suggestions? I'm read the tuning tips in the manual and will try that too.

I bought this kit used so I don't really know what mods are done BUT I do have a few extra stuff for stock racing.. a 4gear trans with lightened outdrives along with the mip puck system and aluminum cvds... what type of changed would each of these changes roughy make?

wombat

iTrader: (31)

For some increased rear traction, you can try the brass C mount

TC5Driven

iTrader: (13)

Then go for it if you like the fit.

SLO county race

iTrader: (10)

Raced this buggy for the first time on Friday night for a club race and did really good I thought. Having not raced indoor in multiplier years and just running this new to me buggy one day last week I ended up 3rd overall in sportsman 17.5. Qualified 6th and got to 1st.. got nervous and crashed back to 3rd. I can't wait to get more time with this buggy. It been AWESOME so far.

tvih

Since I've now started experimenting with setups finally on my SCTs, I figured it's time to take a look at my B5M as well. Originally I built it basically as per manual as well as a I could (as it was my first car). I was driving indoors at the time, and a few guys readjusted the shock preload to be a lot less than what manual suggested. So, it ended up being a quite low ride height indeed in retrospect.

Where it gets funky is that I've been driving with it outdoors now, on a low/medium-grip clay track that is basically a 1/8 track - still with the same darn setup! I must say it has worked surprisingly well, but I suppose I've probably been slamming the chassis to the ground and thus scratching it more than would be necessary As the summer has progressed the track has gotten all the bumpier for it due to lack of maintenance, which isn't helping any especially with a 1/10 buggy.

Tomorrow will be "2WD day" as far as my practise session goes, because I noticed today with my SC10 2WD that I've been driving 4WD too much recently. Bad habits learned from that meant a stuck-in-a-ditch or belly-up 2WD every damn lap! So anyway, gonna test out the B5M with the more approriate ride height. It's probably at least 1cm higher now, I kid you not - rear level CVA, front level inner and outer hinge pins as per manual - not sure why my manual says "or 24mm" because at those levels it's much higher. Also not sure why the preload levels in the assembly phase is just 4mm and 7mm, because those sure as heck don't get the CVAs/pins level.

Not sure if there's any other adjustments I should try while at it. Shock mount holes are standard, shock oils are standard (and way overdue for a refill), etc. But I suppose it's best to test the ride height first, since it is a rather drastic change.

tvih

Well, the new ride height worked nicely, landing jumps was a lot less "slappy", though there's still some of that given it's not really a 1/10 track.

Gotta say, it's funny that I often see people say that SC is easier than buggy, but again today it was so much easier to be consistent with the B5M compared to the SC10. I drove about 2 hours with each, and the buggy was just easier. Sure, it's a newer model than the SC10, but the same has been said when it was still current.

I've been thinking of doing a diff check on the B5M because it hasn't been touched since the initial build, but been putting it off. What got me doing it right now is I realized there was likely to be no oil in it. When I was still driving indoors I noticed some oil on the rear of the car, somehow I thought it was shock leak, but in retrospect I think I just forgot that there was oil in the diff, because the location made it obvious it was the diff. Well, now to hope that it'll keep the oil in after assembly, and having said oil surely shouldn't be detrimental to driving performance either

tvih

Eh, I don't get it. Why is it that every time I rebuild a gear diff, it ends up much too tight? Happened with both diffs in the SC10 4x4, and now with the B5M. I had to remove the sun gear shims in the 4x4 to get the diffs to spin like they did prior to rebuilding. Feels like I'd need to remove one of the two shims on each side in this case, too. Requires way too much force to spin the diff. Having built 4 new gear diffs (the B5M's, and three for the SCTE 3.0) there was never any problem, but these rebuilds...

nbartlet1

does anyone know where to get a diff rebuild kit? it is on backorder at multiple sites i checked online.

blankenj99

Associated's site shows them in stock

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7677-ASC7677-diff_rebuild_kit/

_danimal_

There's a lip on the top of the sun gear that should be sanded smooth, before assembly. I built the gear diffs for my B5m and B6 this way, and they are butter smooth.