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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 09-08-2016, 11:11 PM
  #27901  
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Question regarding cutting of the plastic bracing:

I'd like to cut between the thumb screw mounts out so that I can center my ESC. I have seen many do this, as well as cut the one out behind the servo. Does removing one or both of these have any real effects on the chassis in either a positive or negative way?

Regarding steering:

I drove another guys Tlr22 3.0 today. His car seemed to have much faster steering and could turn much quicker and tighter. At first that killed me and the car felt twitchy but then I got used to it. When I went back to my b5m lite the steering felt super slow and much wider. I checked my endpoints on his recommendation and they are as high as they can go before generating a buzzing servo. I have a savox 1257tg that I know is lightning quick so I'm thinking this is more of an issue with my setup. Any recommendations?

Also, regarding stock class fan usage:

When I mounted my WTF fan I instantly couldn't fit my stock body. I'm using the gravity rc waterfall mount. Seems this is common occurance? I mainly practice so I don't just run 6 minutes then go to the pits, I'd like to run my full pack and then move to my next battery. Seems like a fan will be needed to run that long as my TrakPower MS 17.5 gets quite hot after 7-10 minutes. Should a jconcepts finisher solve that? Ordered one to try.

May need suggestions for a better 17.5 as well. I'm geared 30/69 and don't have near the bottom end nor top end of many other 17.5s I have practiced with.

Thank you all!

Last edited by Ride1226; 09-08-2016 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ride1226
Regarding steering:

I drove another guys Tlr22 3.0 today. His car seemed to have much faster steering and could turn much quicker and tighter. At first that killed me and the car felt twitchy but then I got used to it. When I went back to my b5m lite the steering felt super slow and much wider. I checked my endpoints on his recommendation and they are as high as they can go before generating a buzzing servo. I have a savox 1257tg that I know is lightning quick so I'm thinking this is more of an issue with my setup. Any recommendations?

Also, regarding stock class fan usage:

When I mounted my WTF fan I instantly couldn't fit my stock body. I'm using the gravity rc waterfall mount. Seems this is common occurance? I mainly practice so I don't just run 6 minutes then go to the pits, I'd like to run my full pack and then move to my next battery. Seems like a fan will be needed to run that long as my TrakPower MS 17.5 gets quite hot after 7-10 minutes. Should a jconcepts finisher solve that? Ordered one to try.

May need suggestions for a better 17.5 as well. I'm geared 30/69 and don't have near the bottom end nor top end of many other 17.5s I have practiced with.

Thank you all!
whats your shock setup? (for steering)
Finnisher has a higher roof area. I used a Safeway fan mount and it clears it.

what motor and timing are you at?
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Old 09-09-2016, 06:51 AM
  #27903  
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I think citting the chassis braces actually has a positive effect on handling on the 5 series, more chassis flex and traction.

See the 17.5 speed tricks and tips thread for a lot of good info regarding this class. Things like lightened drivetrains, slipper eliminators and hi amp charging are all used in 17.5 for more speed.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:25 AM
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I am running a TrakPower MS Series 17.5t at it's full 45* of timing.

I have read about the high amp charging and I'm simply not going to go down that road. 2c charging is the most my batteries will see. I just strongly disagree with that whole topic. I asked the gent that let me drive his 22 3.0 yesterday and he doesn't do it. So that wasn't the difference between my car and his. In fact, he's running the exact same smc 60c factory spec shorties that I am. He is however running a Schuur Speed 17.5t.

As for my shock setup I have to admit I'm not sure what's inside them. I bought the car off another user here at a steal and in nearly new shape. I ran it at OCRC and it jumped and landed so nicely that I didn't tear the shocks down. They have white springs front and rear. Rear are kashima bodied, front regular.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:41 AM
  #27905  
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He is however running a Schuur Speed 17.5t
An off the shelf 89.00 one or a 200+ dollar hand built, shimmed , top 5% of the top 5% ? Big difference.

Is he running aluminum pucks? Cut gears? Slot car pinion? Right at 1500 grams? There is alot you can do and never get into charging beyond 2c.
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by xyzracer
I think citting the chassis braces actually has a positive effect on handling on the 5 series, more chassis flex and traction.
interesting... Which part of the brace should be cut? Pics?
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Old 09-09-2016, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
interesting... Which part of the brace should be cut? Pics?
Like this:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/14624149-post1794.html
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
Thanks. So what's the advantage to this in handling ? Is this only good for dirt tracks or clay high bite tracks?
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Old 09-09-2016, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JsK
An off the shelf 89.00 one or a 200+ dollar hand built, shimmed , top 5% of the top 5% ? Big difference.

Is he running aluminum pucks? Cut gears? Slot car pinion? Right at 1500 grams? There is alot you can do and never get into charging beyond 2c.
No pucks according to him. Didn't ask the weight. The schuur speed is definitely a 100$ motor but I didn't think the difference would be so drastic. Maybe my TrakPower MS 17.5 really just sucks.
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Old 09-09-2016, 04:40 PM
  #27910  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
Thanks. So what's the advantage to this in handling ? Is this only good for dirt tracks or clay high bite tracks?
Its good for everything....it allows the chassis to flex properly. I have ran it outdoors / indoors, low traction / high traction.
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:56 PM
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whats good starting point for gearing 10.5 motor stock spur on high byte clay track
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by big james
whats good starting point for gearing 10.5 motor stock spur on high byte clay track
Some guys will just comment rtfm.
I say the manual is a good start. 24/78
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:11 PM
  #27913  
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thanks
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Old 09-09-2016, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by big james
thanks
Rock on, the manual does tend to be a bit conservative.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:33 PM
  #27915  
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My Hitec servo is a super tight fit even with the spacers removed, anyone experience binding of the linkage? I am thinking of using a dremel to create a little room.
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