Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
For anyone that runs this already do you think the wing shim is necessary? deciding if I need it or not.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...2357-1/p443485
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...2357-1/p443485
awesome, thanks guys
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
Tech Regular
On the other end when they are wearing out, the push is less so I can drive them at least 8 or 10 more runs before I can't take it any more and throw the rims in the pickle jar.
I'm running the 4wd fronts on JC front wheels and I feel the same thing. I think they feel a little less edgy when brand new compared to the narrow fronts on narrow Schumacher rims. I also think the car feels more planted like a 4wd car but without the weight.
On the other end when they are wearing out, the push is less so I can drive them at least 8 or 10 more runs before I can't take it any more and throw the rims in the pickle jar.
On the other end when they are wearing out, the push is less so I can drive them at least 8 or 10 more runs before I can't take it any more and throw the rims in the pickle jar.
When I was a newbie to race buggies, I accidentally purchased 4wd fronts that I managed to squeeze on to the 2WD front wheels. I didn't even realise I had 4WD tires until someone at the track pointed it out to me. The car (B5R at the time) was awesome.... And I thought I was a really good driver. Lol.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
I remember way back with my XXX-BK2, we would mount up 4wd fronts on 2wd front wheels and the same with front wings back then
The ROAR rules indicate a max tire width of 44.45 mm and don't distinguish between 2wd and 4wd tires.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I have a set of 4wd front Electrons mounted on 22-4 front rims that measure 33.5mm. In looking at the rules it doesn't even distinguish between front and rear tire so width-wise just about any tire is okay for the front.
The main problem used to be that the cars have to fit in the "box" at roar races. The 4wd fronts made the car a tad to wide for it.
Tech Apprentice
So I'm finally starting to string together a few minutes of laps (in practice with traffic) without being upside down or stuck. What I'm struggling with is corner entry.
Car is box stock (shock oil, springs, camber/caster/toe, 24mm ride height. 8MM [2 skinny shims) battery from back, new Dirt Webs). It feels really good most of the time except mid and low speed corners. I check settings every run.
I understeer quite a bit. My Reedy 800z is currently on the defaults which means 0% drag brake. I noticed adding some braking force into the corner helps tremendously but it's difficult to modulate. I end up pointing the wrong way a bit. I've calibrated my transmitter (Airtronics MX-V) and ESC, brake EPA is 100%.
Will upping the drag brake to 5% (next setting up from 0) help me get some weight on the nose into a corner?
Car is box stock (shock oil, springs, camber/caster/toe, 24mm ride height. 8MM [2 skinny shims) battery from back, new Dirt Webs). It feels really good most of the time except mid and low speed corners. I check settings every run.
I understeer quite a bit. My Reedy 800z is currently on the defaults which means 0% drag brake. I noticed adding some braking force into the corner helps tremendously but it's difficult to modulate. I end up pointing the wrong way a bit. I've calibrated my transmitter (Airtronics MX-V) and ESC, brake EPA is 100%.
Will upping the drag brake to 5% (next setting up from 0) help me get some weight on the nose into a corner?
Tech Apprentice
what motor should i look at for a beginner
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
So I'm finally starting to string together a few minutes of laps (in practice with traffic) without being upside down or stuck. What I'm struggling with is corner entry.
Car is box stock (shock oil, springs, camber/caster/toe, 24mm ride height. 8MM [2 skinny shims) battery from back, new Dirt Webs). It feels really good most of the time except mid and low speed corners. I check settings every run.
I understeer quite a bit. My Reedy 800z is currently on the defaults which means 0% drag brake. I noticed adding some braking force into the corner helps tremendously but it's difficult to modulate. I end up pointing the wrong way a bit. I've calibrated my transmitter (Airtronics MX-V) and ESC, brake EPA is 100%.
Will upping the drag brake to 5% (next setting up from 0) help me get some weight on the nose into a corner?
Car is box stock (shock oil, springs, camber/caster/toe, 24mm ride height. 8MM [2 skinny shims) battery from back, new Dirt Webs). It feels really good most of the time except mid and low speed corners. I check settings every run.
I understeer quite a bit. My Reedy 800z is currently on the defaults which means 0% drag brake. I noticed adding some braking force into the corner helps tremendously but it's difficult to modulate. I end up pointing the wrong way a bit. I've calibrated my transmitter (Airtronics MX-V) and ESC, brake EPA is 100%.
Will upping the drag brake to 5% (next setting up from 0) help me get some weight on the nose into a corner?
Hope a more experienced driver can help you out better but those are my experiences.
Tech Apprentice
I've personally noticed drag brake helps me. I'm at 15% currently (though I'm using a new motor and it brakes much less than my last). I also have my max brake at 50% so I can really mash the brakes when I need that front bite. When I had it at 75% I noticed I was spinning too much and couldn't control it as much.
Hope a more experienced driver can help you out better but those are my experiences.
Hope a more experienced driver can help you out better but those are my experiences.
Thanks again!