54LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
03-09-2017, 12:23 AM - Wikipost
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04-02-2016, 02:32 PM
Tech Fanatic
General Maintenance Schedule Question
What schedule do you guys follow on your B5m for regular maintenance with the exception of stuff breaking of course.
After being called out by the local pros at my track after they looked over my shock oil and how the diff felt im curious with what frequency you guys look to adjust /replace stuff.
Main things I know so far to check are
shock oil (Every 2 races)
Bearings (Every 5 or 6 races)
slop in rear and front hubs
What schedule do you guys follow on your B5m for regular maintenance with the exception of stuff breaking of course.
After being called out by the local pros at my track after they looked over my shock oil and how the diff felt im curious with what frequency you guys look to adjust /replace stuff.
Main things I know so far to check are
shock oil (Every 2 races)
Bearings (Every 5 or 6 races)
slop in rear and front hubs
04-02-2016, 02:50 PM
So it came early. Servo fits well with no cutting. Car weighs in at 1585g
04-02-2016, 03:25 PM
General Maintenance Schedule Question
What schedule do you guys follow on your B5m for regular maintenance with the exception of stuff breaking of course.
Main things I know so far to check are
shock oil (Every 2 races)
Bearings (Every 5 or 6 races)
slop in rear and front hubs
What schedule do you guys follow on your B5m for regular maintenance with the exception of stuff breaking of course.
Main things I know so far to check are
shock oil (Every 2 races)
Bearings (Every 5 or 6 races)
slop in rear and front hubs
shock oil - once a week if was dirty. I would always bleed/re-bleed my shocks before racing to make sure they were consistent.
Bearings: I run partially de-shielded, so I would clean and re-oil before every race
Diff: I would rebuild every week, but that's my personal preference. To clarify, rebuild = clean and regrease
slop: monitor after every race and shim as necessary.
YMMV depending on your track, the dirt, dust buildup, etc.
04-02-2016, 04:16 PM
Damn i guess im slacking! Shock oil once a year, bearings when they go out, Diff oil never unless it leaks.
04-02-2016, 04:39 PM
I have the same problem. Trying to keep them stored upright seems to help I think. My guess is the cap just doesn't form a good seal.
04-02-2016, 06:26 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
When I was able to race weekly, I would do the following:
shock oil - once a week if was dirty. I would always bleed/re-bleed my shocks before racing to make sure they were consistent.
Bearings: I run partially de-shielded, so I would clean and re-oil before every race
Diff: I would rebuild every week, but that's my personal preference. To clarify, rebuild = clean and regrease
slop: monitor after every race and shim as necessary.
YMMV depending on your track, the dirt, dust buildup, etc.
shock oil - once a week if was dirty. I would always bleed/re-bleed my shocks before racing to make sure they were consistent.
Bearings: I run partially de-shielded, so I would clean and re-oil before every race
Diff: I would rebuild every week, but that's my personal preference. To clarify, rebuild = clean and regrease
slop: monitor after every race and shim as necessary.
YMMV depending on your track, the dirt, dust buildup, etc.
04-02-2016, 07:37 PM
Oil
Glad someone mentioned it. Am always buying new oil because of this. Anyone.
04-03-2016, 04:35 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Nice! I would cut the nubs off the wing mount and screw the wing into the mount. You will need either wing buttons or small washers. Also make sure you have the set screws in the bottoms of the hubs and front bulkhead if aluminum to remove any slop.
04-03-2016, 04:58 AM
I have the set screws in the rear hubs and front bulkhead since I did the hinge pin mod...
04-03-2016, 06:42 AM
Thanks
04-03-2016, 08:09 AM
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
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Front Suspension
I appreciate all the responses regarding hard vs. stock suspension arms. One more question because unfortunately since I did not build this car and I bought it as a new slightly used roller I am working out the bugs from the previous owner.
Regarding the front suspension block? I used to run an aluminum block in other cars and trucks I ran one but I prefer to run the stock one to keep the car light weight.
So the Question becomes that while replacing the front arm I noticed the hinge pins are kind of tight and need to be pressed into the suspension block? Is this normal? Should I ream it out so they move freely and no the pins aren't tweak I checked that too! So do I ream it ? leave it alone and let them be snug/tight or go to an aluminum front block running 17.5???
Regarding the front suspension block? I used to run an aluminum block in other cars and trucks I ran one but I prefer to run the stock one to keep the car light weight.
So the Question becomes that while replacing the front arm I noticed the hinge pins are kind of tight and need to be pressed into the suspension block? Is this normal? Should I ream it out so they move freely and no the pins aren't tweak I checked that too! So do I ream it ? leave it alone and let them be snug/tight or go to an aluminum front block running 17.5???
04-03-2016, 08:49 AM
04-03-2016, 08:50 AM
I appreciate all the responses regarding hard vs. stock suspension arms. One more question because unfortunately since I did not build this car and I bought it as a new slightly used roller I am working out the bugs from the previous owner.
Regarding the front suspension block? I used to run an aluminum block in other cars and trucks I ran one but I prefer to run the stock one to keep the car light weight.
So the Question becomes that while replacing the front arm I noticed the hinge pins are kind of tight and need to be pressed into the suspension block? Is this normal? Should I ream it out so they move freely and no the pins aren't tweak I checked that too! So do I ream it ? leave it alone and let them be snug/tight or go to an aluminum front block running 17.5???
Regarding the front suspension block? I used to run an aluminum block in other cars and trucks I ran one but I prefer to run the stock one to keep the car light weight.
So the Question becomes that while replacing the front arm I noticed the hinge pins are kind of tight and need to be pressed into the suspension block? Is this normal? Should I ream it out so they move freely and no the pins aren't tweak I checked that too! So do I ream it ? leave it alone and let them be snug/tight or go to an aluminum front block running 17.5???
Check the hinge pins aren't bent first. (roll them on a piece of glass)
Then yes, I'd ream the block and arms. Unfortunately this is part of owning a B5M.
