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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 03-13-2016, 07:18 PM
  #26131  
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Originally Posted by Volition
Hi guys,

Today at the track in my last 2 finals my car started veering to the left on acceleration. I couldn't work out what could be causing the problem. I ended up compensating throughout the races.

Spoke to Ray Munday afterwards. He suggested;
  • Check rear shock preload are not uneven
  • a hub bearing could be an issue.
  • Rear shocks set unevenly someway.
  • Cracked arm
All look OK to me. Maybe it's the diff, but that feels smooth and normal. Once the buggy is at speed it's tracking ok.

What's your suggestions to troubleshoot. I'm thinking;
  1. Test shocks and springs on shock duplicator.
  2. Rebuild shocks
  3. Clean hubs, test bearings

If no good after testing I'll have to just rebuild the entire drivetrain, cleaning everything as I go.

Has anyone ever experienced and problem solved this issue. I have a very slight gut feel it may remotely be related to steering issue. But probably not, it tracks fine on the car park. Actually I can't seem to replicate the problem on the car park.

Need to solve before a big meet in 3 weeks time. Helpppp please?

Is it possible that there is something wrong with a wheel or maybe a tire has come unglued? Problems like this always seem to be caused by something simple. I'd swap tires and see if you still have the problem.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:52 PM
  #26132  
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Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:58 PM
  #26133  
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm
Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
32/69 would be a good starting point. Go up or down depending on what you need. More punch go down a tooth or more top end go up a tooth or two. With these newer motors I rarely gear for temps since these newer motors are plenty fast and rarely get very warm.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:58 PM
  #26134  
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm
Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
It's impossible to gear a car over the internet. Gearing is voltage, temp, feel, and weight based. Also, the rotating mass of your drivetrain can have an effect as well.

However, that said, start small and work up. Make sure your timing is at 55-60 degrees, and you have a very strong 8.4v fan on the motor.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:04 PM
  #26135  
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Ok, I know it is hard to tell me what to do over the internet, but I was just hoping for a general guideline. I loved the rip from adding a 33 pinion but I just couldn't get up to top speed on the straight as much as I felt I needed to . I just wasn't sure if this motor was a real burner (as in heat), so I didn't want to go out on my first run with a 32 or 33 and see 160+ temps.
I do have a fan on my motor since I am way underweight so I am hoping I will see similar temps as I have currently just with more rip :P
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:12 PM
  #26136  
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Gearing a race vehicle is so simple when using Novak electronics. They do the hard work for you (timings)
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:15 PM
  #26137  
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Originally Posted by Keith B
Gearing a race vehicle is so simple when using Novak electronics. They do the hard work for you (timings)
What?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:16 PM
  #26138  
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm
Ok, I know it is hard to tell me what to do over the internet, but I was just hoping for a general guideline. I loved the rip from adding a 33 pinion but I just couldn't get up to top speed on the straight as much as I felt I needed to . I just wasn't sure if this motor was a real burner (as in heat), so I didn't want to go out on my first run with a 32 or 33 and see 160+ temps.
I do have a fan on my motor since I am way underweight so I am hoping I will see similar temps as I have currently just with more rip :P
I had a team works D4 based Fantom and it never got very warm at all and I went up to 35/69 and it hit maybe 135*. So don't be afraid to start at 32. Just gear it for speed, you should be top speed about 3/4 down the straight away. Righ about when most people start shutting it down.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
What?
Yeah wha?
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:21 PM
  #26140  
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Originally Posted by cripplethreat
What's a good starting point for gear diff on a dusty rough outdoor track? thanks in advance



Your better off running a ball diff you could try 3k or 2k in the Gear diff first though to see.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:37 PM
  #26141  
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Default need help with a tamiya

Hello ..
I'd like to start off by saying I'm a newbie to the rc world and recently purchased a
TAMIYA 1/10 RC TA01 4WD CHASSIS Kazama Auto's 2JZ Lexus IS

Servo -FUTABA FP-S148 × 2

RECIEVER : FUTABA FP-R112JE

Now the issue I have is that it didn't come with a transmitter like most tamiya rc...
so my question is.
Could I use any match pair of transmitter and reciver for the tamiya and do they have to be tamiya brand??
I'm oblivion to the mhz and channel of the futaba that is stated above
So b4 anyone asks that question.
My respond is I, don't, know.
If anyone does know what channel and mhz that the futaba run on do let me know pls.
I am most grateful and I will appriciate any help that has Been provided Thank you in advance 😊
Preferably private massage me do that I have your full attention .
Thank you once gain
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:18 PM
  #26142  
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm
Just ordered a fantom 17.5 today. Looking for some gearing suggestions. I currently run a 32 tooth and get to about 90 degrees in these cooler temperatures. Should I be gearing about the same as my Hobbywing 3650? From what I read here, I am thinking I should start with a 30 or 31 tooth? Any suggestions would be appreciated for my mid size high bite clay track.
When I ordered mine I asked them what their opinion was. They said start at 30 or 31 but 32 would likely be the sweet spot. Good luck, you'll love the motor!
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:32 PM
  #26143  
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Originally Posted by gio24
Hello ..
I'd like to start off by saying I'm a newbie to the rc world and recently purchased a
TAMIYA 1/10 RC TA01 4WD CHASSIS Kazama Auto's 2JZ Lexus IS

Servo -FUTABA FP-S148 × 2

RECIEVER : FUTABA FP-R112JE

Now the issue I have is that it didn't come with a transmitter like most tamiya rc...
so my question is.
Could I use any match pair of transmitter and reciver for the tamiya and do they have to be tamiya brand??
I'm oblivion to the mhz and channel of the futaba that is stated above
So b4 anyone asks that question.
My respond is I, don't, know.
If anyone does know what channel and mhz that the futaba run on do let me know pls.
I am most grateful and I will appriciate any help that has Been provided Thank you in advance 😊
Preferably private massage me do that I have your full attention .
Thank you once gain
Welcome to the RC world but you posted in the wrong thread

Here's the information on your remote that would be useful, also check out the FAQ section on that site which will help.
http://www.futabarc.com/receivers/old-receivers.html
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:04 AM
  #26144  
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Originally Posted by Keith B
Gearing a race vehicle is so simple when using Novak electronics. They do the hard work for you (timings)
Is this a joke post? Novak hasn't been relevant in racing since the brushed days, even then, LRP started wooping their asses on ESC's and Trinity with motors. The Novak 4 was their last really good esc and I can't remember the last time they had a good motor, maybe the havoc when SC first started to get big. Bob Novak, is an extremely nice guy and holds a very dear place in this hobby. But he's let the times steam roll over him and Novak's dead now in the racing world. Stop living in 1987
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Old 03-14-2016, 01:21 AM
  #26145  
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Originally Posted by DennisNyholm
Ok, I know it is hard to tell me what to do over the internet, but I was just hoping for a general guideline. I loved the rip from adding a 33 pinion but I just couldn't get up to top speed on the straight as much as I felt I needed to . I just wasn't sure if this motor was a real burner (as in heat), so I didn't want to go out on my first run with a 32 or 33 and see 160+ temps.
I do have a fan on my motor since I am way underweight so I am hoping I will see similar temps as I have currently just with more rip :P
Dennis stop by my pit table next time your there I'll take a look and get u set for Irh These gentlemen here did post some real good info.

Phil
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