137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
02-13-2016, 03:14 AM
sorry for the delay i been busy at work. 1st of he runs the new mach 3 with a 7.5. new motors seem to have tons of bottom punch. also he runs a higher c rating battery. not sure which as i run for a different company. team scream and i run a 100c pack. again more throttle punch. and last hes running a shorter gear. he has a 78 and i believe about a 19. that will put the motor closer to axles. little farther back which may help. i run orion motors which are super smooth so my car doesnt do wheelies like his its more of a gradual power wheelie. also u may want to go on the web site for whatever esc your running and check where the pro guys are running setting. most importantly just cause your car isnt doing wheelies like that doesnt mean its not wrking well. i think he just likes to play before his run. hes keeping it fun which is what we should all do. and he wont think your creepy if u friend him hes a great kid killer personality and like to help out so check him out. if you want ill pass your name along to him so he can keep an eye out for u..good luck and keep it fun. and if u have anymore questions ill do my best to help u out anytime
02-13-2016, 03:23 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
http://www.redrc.net/2016/02/avid-tr...t/#more-108237
Avid have introduced the Triad direct drive set that allows stock racers to remove the entire clutch assembly for conditions where the driver feels having less rotating mass and zero slip except from the differential is beneficial. The unit is of a very lightweight design which was accomplished by removing all the plates and pads as well as the steel spring with a minimalist design done in aluminium. The DD plate is hard anodised for strength and the DD post is gutted for weight removal for a grand total of 0.8 gram. For B5M owners, there is also an included M4 aluminium flanged locknut to remove even more weight. The direct drive set is a direct fitment for Team Associated 5th generation vehicles such as the B5, T5 and SC5 and it is also usable on TLR22 and Kyosho RB6 kits with the latter requiring the Avid Triad Kyosho aluminium top shaft. The set will hit the stores soon.
Avid have introduced the Triad direct drive set that allows stock racers to remove the entire clutch assembly for conditions where the driver feels having less rotating mass and zero slip except from the differential is beneficial. The unit is of a very lightweight design which was accomplished by removing all the plates and pads as well as the steel spring with a minimalist design done in aluminium. The DD plate is hard anodised for strength and the DD post is gutted for weight removal for a grand total of 0.8 gram. For B5M owners, there is also an included M4 aluminium flanged locknut to remove even more weight. The direct drive set is a direct fitment for Team Associated 5th generation vehicles such as the B5, T5 and SC5 and it is also usable on TLR22 and Kyosho RB6 kits with the latter requiring the Avid Triad Kyosho aluminium top shaft. The set will hit the stores soon.
I already use a Shapeway 3D printed lockout that works great and is lighter than this setup. I like the fact that I can screw the gear to it, I am not sure I like the potential play that can exist with the pins on the triad. Knowing Avid I am sure their quality is excellent!
I am going to use the idea of the aluminum but on my setup.
02-13-2016, 04:56 AM
$15 isn't a bad price for it. There are already items very similar to this like the Exotek or even Shapeway 3D printed items. This eliminated the 3 screws for the gear and add an aluminum nut. I see Avid is making specific spur gears for this setup, I'm not sure if this works with the Kimbrough gears.
I already use a Shapeway 3D printed lockout that works great and is lighter than this setup. I like the fact that I can screw the gear to it, I am not sure I like the potential play that can exist with the pins on the triad. Knowing Avid I am sure their quality is excellent!
I am going to use the idea of the aluminum but on my setup.
I already use a Shapeway 3D printed lockout that works great and is lighter than this setup. I like the fact that I can screw the gear to it, I am not sure I like the potential play that can exist with the pins on the triad. Knowing Avid I am sure their quality is excellent!
I am going to use the idea of the aluminum but on my setup.
02-13-2016, 05:25 AM
sorry for the delay i been busy at work. 1st of he runs the new mach 3 with a 7.5. new motors seem to have tons of bottom punch. also he runs a higher c rating battery. not sure which as i run for a different company. team scream and i run a 100c pack. again more throttle punch. and last hes running a shorter gear. he has a 78 and i believe about a 19. that will put the motor closer to axles. little farther back which may help. i run orion motors which are super smooth so my car doesnt do wheelies like his its more of a gradual power wheelie. also u may want to go on the web site for whatever esc your running and check where the pro guys are running setting. most importantly just cause your car isnt doing wheelies like that doesnt mean its not wrking well. i think he just likes to play before his run. hes keeping it fun which is what we should all do. and he wont think your creepy if u friend him hes a great kid killer personality and like to help out so check him out. if you want ill pass your name along to him so he can keep an eye out for u..good luck and keep it fun. and if u have anymore questions ill do my best to help u out anytime
02-13-2016, 08:22 AM
Yeah this just seems so far off I don't know how it would run right with one link 1mm longer than the other. I took the whole front clip off to see if it was a twisted chassis, and by eye the camber was still off. I have a b5r which shares parts on the front so I guess I will start swapping them out to see what is wrong
02-13-2016, 08:23 AM
How do I get my 3gear car to rip wheelies like Alex K's on a flat no traction clay surface???
This past weekend at the JC winter nationals in stl, Alex was ripping wheelies on the straight before the race stared. The traction was terrible, I ran 4gear like always because it seems to have more forward bite on our low bit Midwest tracks. But he and every othe fast ae car was running 3gear and looked to have no issues with forward drive. So I switched to a 3gear and my car doesn't do wheelies when I punch it, my tires are well sauced and inserts broken in, Idk what I'm missing? My car has BT's most recent club setup on it, esc setup as well.
This past weekend at the JC winter nationals in stl, Alex was ripping wheelies on the straight before the race stared. The traction was terrible, I ran 4gear like always because it seems to have more forward bite on our low bit Midwest tracks. But he and every othe fast ae car was running 3gear and looked to have no issues with forward drive. So I switched to a 3gear and my car doesn't do wheelies when I punch it, my tires are well sauced and inserts broken in, Idk what I'm missing? My car has BT's most recent club setup on it, esc setup as well.
02-13-2016, 11:58 AM
Tech Rookie
chassis crade
Hi,
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
02-13-2016, 12:06 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (7)
Yea I figured, Avid makes top quality stuff! If I didn't already have mine I would definitely purchase this. I am happy to hear that you like it and it always makes it easier when your lhs has the items readily available.
02-13-2016, 01:52 PM
Hi,
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
02-13-2016, 04:24 PM
Hi,
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
02-13-2016, 04:24 PM
02-13-2016, 05:11 PM
Hi,
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
I am building a champions edition kit.
I got to the third step, to secure the 'chassis cradle 91514' to the chassis '91510' (aluminum). Where the chassis cradle notches into the front chassis plate is fine, but the 6 m3x8mm bolts which are supposed to go from underneath the chassis into the chassis cradle, these simply do not line up. I see later on in the manual that the Chassis brace '91521' is secured also to the chassis, but those holes don't line up.
Did I get the wrong chassis brace? I checked the supplements to no avail. Thanks.
02-13-2016, 05:12 PM
And...
02-13-2016, 05:22 PM
End to end the chassis is 11.25"
02-13-2016, 05:33 PM
Getting the wrong stuff in a kit or defective parts.... yep...typical AE.
Probably a T5M chassis.
Probably a T5M chassis.