2dialed

it's removing the front hinge pin brace to get alittle more clearance when landing nose down

youngrigo

iTrader: (7)

Ive read about people doing exactly that. Ive been thinking about it but not sure if I want to do it yet...

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

from fellow regular racers, they could hardly feel a difference other than the harder plastic being more brittle and breaking when you hit a pipe or something.

joncmack

iTrader: (31)

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setupb5/B5_RyanCavalieri_FrontEndTip/

Just2much19

iTrader: (7)

Perfect, thank you. It appears you need the aluminum bulkhead that had the set screws in them. This is more for high speed scrubbing so if you have a long track with a lot of jumps it can be beneficial, that is if you are good at scrubbing.

joncmack

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, it comes in handy if you have very steep take-offs on jumps where the front may be dragging or if there's the possibility of really nosing onto a flat landing. It also has its negatives though in that all of the force on hard impacts on the front arms are transferred to the front noseplate and can cause failure/cracking. I'd say if you don't have a hobby shop with ample parts (the noseplate/front arms) available at the track, it's probably not worth the modification.

*also, a little trick if you do the mod, take a lighter to the front bumper to heat it up and bend it up to the front bulkhead.

Just2much19

iTrader: (7)

Well I just got done rebuilding the back end and trans on the buggy. Replaced the rear hubs with the 0* aluminum ones that you put the ball in vertical. I also put in the rear Schelle D mount with removable Pins so you don't have to take everything apart. I also put in 3-1 C inserts in along with B5 A arms.

I built a 4 gear lay down trans with cut gears, Avid ceramic bearings and Avid gear balls and thrust bearing. I already had the MIP pucks and axles. I still have to adjust wheel angles but I will do that last, after going through the front end and a re-wire.

The one problem I ran into with the lay down trans is that my Reedy 5200 battery doesn't fit, seems about an inch short. I have ordered a ProTek RC 2S "Supreme Power" Li-Poly 100C X-Lightweight, 2800 should be fine for a race right? I will probably order an Orion 100C Li-Poly Shorty Pack Battery at 4500mah to play around and get some more time from. I would like to hear what battry you are running, especially if you have the laydown trans.

Also there is a little front to back play on the rear inside A arms/hinge pin, about 0.4mm. Therefore I need some 3.5mmx.3mm spacers. Has anyone does this already? Ideally I would like about .1-.15 of play.

Also the S2 body doesn't fit perfectly. Looks like the top shaft is a little long so I will either need to trim that or poke a hole in the body for it.

mhughesjr

iTrader: (7)

What are those wheels on your buggy? I assume that they are for adjusting your setup, but I have never seen them before. Where can I get a set.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

+1 those must be for carpet tracks!

What's really shocking about those pictures is all that money in carbon chassis, D4 motor, low profile tranny, pucks,slipper eliminator, all those aluminum pieces, and yet has nasty birdcage bullet connectors?

RcJunky76

iTrader: (1)

I believe those are best used on medium bite clay tracks with no cracks.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

The bird cage are fine. I use the reedy 5mm ones in my car, no issues and a better fit. solid connectors, at least in 5mm, can be very annoying. Never has issues with 5mm solid connectors, but the 5mm ones....they have sucked.

thecman26

iTrader: (112)

Wasn't there a big uproar a year or two ago with cheap birdcages melitng down lipos since the are inconsistent with contact? I tossed out my birdcages long ago and went solid. Good quality solid connectors are way way better in holding contact from my experience.

boucher

I have a very similar setup (carbon chassis, 3 gear ACRC, JC S2W). You can only run shorty packs with the laydown gear boxes because they move everything a little forward into the battery cradle area. I run SMC 4400 batteries. Yes you'll have to make a relief hole for your topshaft. I also had to trim a little more on my motor plate at the top because the body was contacting it.

born2build

Holy crap! I've hit the mother lode! I just signed up on this site and found this thread. All things B5M in one place! So cool. I've been all over "hyperspace" trying to get some schooling on my new buggy and it's all been here all along. Sheesh! Well, such is life. By the way, when did these things get so ugly? Cab forward? Yuck!

ridgewaybodies

iTrader: (42)

Integy makes them...