137LikesTeam Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
04-22-2024, 12:09 PM - Wikipost
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01-25-2016, 06:35 PM
Not really outdated junk. Depends on what you are looking to do with it. Still people that prefer a rear motor buggy, but it is now commonly more thought of as an outdoor loose track vehicle. The current trend is mid motor and considered a proper fit for higher traction tracks like indoors.
01-25-2016, 07:05 PM
I want to try it in mine. Being a stock car, I have got it down to about as light as I want it. Now I want to start adding weight in places to keep my CG low and also bring back the planted feel when the car was 1600+ grams. If anything I will keep it just to do the hinge pin mod.
I see lots of 17.5 set ups online running the Al front bulk head. The weight might be great. I was told by a sponsored local to get a full size servo because the b5m needs the weight up front.
Also, the front hinge pin mod... The pins don't slide out the front!?! They must not as every ft driver seems to run that mod.
01-25-2016, 07:26 PM
When we put the 0* caster blocks, standard set-up is 5* blocks, in ( Part Number 91400) it smoothed out the steering ( numbed it down a little) on entry and added exit/ on power steering. These 2 things were her main complaint. Nice thing was, the caster change corrects both of these
01-25-2016, 09:41 PM
Tech Regular
My b5m is going to be a 17.5 racer and I'm wondering about all the AL stuff too. Based on the FT setup sheets I've found for 17.5 B5m I see them running loads of aluminum parts. Spencer Rivkin has a 17.5 set up sheet out and he has the al rear hubs, and several al arm mounts and yet his weight is still jn the low 1500s. How the he11 does he do it?
I see lots of 17.5 set ups online running the Al front bulk head. The weight might be great. I was told by a sponsored local to get a full size servo because the b5m needs the weight up front.
Also, the front hinge pin mod... The pins don't slide out the front!?! They must not as every ft driver seems to run that mod.
I see lots of 17.5 set ups online running the Al front bulk head. The weight might be great. I was told by a sponsored local to get a full size servo because the b5m needs the weight up front.
Also, the front hinge pin mod... The pins don't slide out the front!?! They must not as every ft driver seems to run that mod.
01-26-2016, 08:36 AM
Sorry if this has been asked before. Does anybody know what is up with the team guys rear springs lately? I have noticed these same springs on a few of the team guys cars in the last few months. Different brand or new springs coming?
01-26-2016, 08:45 AM
They are Yatabe Arena (yokomo) springs.
01-26-2016, 08:56 AM
yeah, I am unsure why they are using the yatabe springs. stiffer rates? According to petit, that is a 2.71lbs springs. AE yellow rear is a 2.4. So a lot stiffer I guess
01-26-2016, 09:01 AM
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01-26-2016, 09:05 AM
01-26-2016, 09:10 AM
01-26-2016, 09:12 AM
. Btw, I just made up that statistic as I have no real data points
Last edited by Wildcat1971; 01-26-2016 at 09:35 AM.
01-26-2016, 09:29 AM
I highly doubt that is true. I just dont think RC has that good of tolerances. I was told by a few spring makers, that the numbers are averages. The rates often change because each rod thet are wound from is never exactly the same. That is why AVID always tested each "batch" and labeled accordingly. AE, TLR, Yok and Kyosho have their numbers all over the place also. if you want matched springs, get a high quality spring tester and buy a crap ton of springs, lol. Otherwise, run what is in the package and work on keeping the wheels down. That is what 99% of us need to do . Btw, I just made up that statistic as I have no real data points
. Btw, I just made up that statistic as I have no real data points 
01-26-2016, 09:53 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Hi,
I'm new here and had a couple Traxxas "basher" type R/Cs when I was younger but haven't messed with r/c in about 10 years. Recently visited a local track and I'm interested in running their stock buggy 17.5 blinky class. I've never raced before. I ordered a B5M CE from AMain yesterday and should be getting it in about a week. I've done some research but I have a couple basic questions.
1) Are the screws/nuts metric or SAE? I have some basic automotive tools in the garage but will probably need some smaller hex keys and nut drivers I imagine. What other tools will I need for the assembly?
2) I see both 2.2" and 61(?)mm wheels listed for 1/10 buggies. Which should I use on the B5M?
3) I noticed that none of the local hobbies shops that I visited seem to carry any B5M specific parts. Is this likely to change as the platform ages?
4) Here's my basic list so far for electronics. Please feel free to comment/critique. Local track has a clay surface if that matters.
-Hobbywing XERUN "Justock" sensored brushless ESC
-EcoPower slingshot 17.5 motor
-Airtronics MX-V FHSS-2 Radio
-Savox SC-1258TG Servo
-Hitec X1 AC Plus Single Port AC/DC Charger
-SMC Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C Batteries
Thanks for the help! This board is a great resource!
I'm new here and had a couple Traxxas "basher" type R/Cs when I was younger but haven't messed with r/c in about 10 years. Recently visited a local track and I'm interested in running their stock buggy 17.5 blinky class. I've never raced before. I ordered a B5M CE from AMain yesterday and should be getting it in about a week. I've done some research but I have a couple basic questions.
1) Are the screws/nuts metric or SAE? I have some basic automotive tools in the garage but will probably need some smaller hex keys and nut drivers I imagine. What other tools will I need for the assembly?
2) I see both 2.2" and 61(?)mm wheels listed for 1/10 buggies. Which should I use on the B5M?
3) I noticed that none of the local hobbies shops that I visited seem to carry any B5M specific parts. Is this likely to change as the platform ages?
4) Here's my basic list so far for electronics. Please feel free to comment/critique. Local track has a clay surface if that matters.
-Hobbywing XERUN "Justock" sensored brushless ESC
-EcoPower slingshot 17.5 motor
-Airtronics MX-V FHSS-2 Radio
-Savox SC-1258TG Servo
-Hitec X1 AC Plus Single Port AC/DC Charger
-SMC Factory Spec 7.4V Shorty 4400mAh 60C Batteries
Thanks for the help! This board is a great resource!
01-26-2016, 10:36 AM
01-26-2016, 10:57 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
I'm a new guy too, just came back to RC cars after a long break.
My suggestions - spend some time at the track asking questions before you build. Hopefully they have a store as well and can recommend some of the parts you need.
Car is 99% metric, I think the pinion gear is the only part that is standard. Get a good set of metric drivers, a MIP set would be the best.
Ask at the track which tires and wheels to get - it's a huge part of the set up and typically there is a dominant favorite at the local track.
Spend a lot of time making sure everything is set up right before your 1st time - camber, ride height, droop, etc. Get a camber gauge and a ride height tool. It's easier to understand what to change if you start from a standard, correct set up. Chances are you will need to make changes, but it will take awhile to figure out which problem is the car and which is the driver.
Practice, practice, practice. And don't be surprised when the 10 year old kid whips your butt - it's going to happen for awhile.
Bruce
My suggestions - spend some time at the track asking questions before you build. Hopefully they have a store as well and can recommend some of the parts you need.
Car is 99% metric, I think the pinion gear is the only part that is standard. Get a good set of metric drivers, a MIP set would be the best.
Ask at the track which tires and wheels to get - it's a huge part of the set up and typically there is a dominant favorite at the local track.
Spend a lot of time making sure everything is set up right before your 1st time - camber, ride height, droop, etc. Get a camber gauge and a ride height tool. It's easier to understand what to change if you start from a standard, correct set up. Chances are you will need to make changes, but it will take awhile to figure out which problem is the car and which is the driver.
Practice, practice, practice. And don't be surprised when the 10 year old kid whips your butt - it's going to happen for awhile.
Bruce