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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 01-21-2016, 07:18 AM
  #25141  
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Bump stop tubing: I forgot to mention that the FL is set up in the manual using 5mm spacer shock spring cups on all 4 shocks. I used the 0mm spring cups and then added the 6mm front and 9mm rear fuel tubing. So no travel loss, just a restrictive compressive bumper. Does the same thing as an oring.

Last edited by DeadstickDuck; 01-23-2016 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:35 AM
  #25142  
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Originally Posted by Jerm13
Give the wife/ girlfriend/ mom $100 and tell her to go shopping.

After she leaves, heat the oven to 350-375*.
Turn oven off.
Throw them in there on a glass dish and wait 15-20 minutes ( make sure oven is off!!!)
Pull them out and peel the tires off.
Open all the windows and clear out the smell.
Get correct tires/rims and start over

(cheaper option)
Or... try them out and see if they work for you. Who knows
Or just use acetone...
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:42 AM
  #25143  
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Originally Posted by DeadstickDuck
Bottom out bumper tubing: I forgot to mention that the FL is set up in the manual using 5mm spacer shock spring cups on all 4 shocks. I used the 0mm spring cups and then added the 6mm front and 9mm rear fuel tubing. So no travel loss, just a restrictive compressive bumper.
Ok so.... You don't lose travel no matter which spring cups you use. The different height spring cups are used for:
To use the springs on several different shock length. Example: 9mm cups for putting the springs on the truck and 0mm for getting a lower ride height with the stiffer springs like running on carpet.

By adding 6mm-9mm of fuel tubing outside of the shock, you 100% limited your up travel by that same amount! All of the sizes of spring cups sit in the same position on the shock eyelet at the same height. The cups only affect the spring and where it sits.

Example:
Using the kit recommended 5mm offset cup with the white front spring set at the desired ride height is the EXACT same thing as using the 0mm offset cup with the same spring but turning the threaded shock collar down 5mm. None of the spring cups effect the up travel or down travel of the shock shaft.
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:06 AM
  #25144  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Ok so.... You don't lose travel no matter which spring cups you use. The different height spring cups are used for:
To use the springs on several different shock length. Example: 9mm cups for putting the springs on the truck and 0mm for getting a lower ride height with the stiffer springs like running on carpet.

By adding 6mm-9mm of fuel tubing outside of the shock, you 100% limited your up travel by that same amount! All of the sizes of spring cups sit in the same position on the shock eyelet at the same height. The cups only affect the spring and where it sits.

Example:
Using the kit recommended 5mm offset cup with the white front spring set at the desired ride height is the EXACT same thing as using the 0mm offset cup with the same spring but turning the threaded shock collar down 5mm. None of the spring cups effect the up travel or down travel of the shock shaft.
...
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Old 01-21-2016, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
...

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Old 01-21-2016, 09:36 AM
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I elected to not really comment on the uptravel discussion, as I would not do this myself. at most I would use an oring or 2 if my bone were getting into my outdrives. But that has not been the case. So I see no need. And i definitely would not do it to keep my chassis from rubbing
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Old 01-21-2016, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by juicy74
Or just use acetone...
If you are trying to save the tires and inserts...then no.
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Old 01-21-2016, 02:55 PM
  #25148  
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3 questions for anyone who has tried the prime waterfall fan mounts ?

1. I’m going to use the WTF windy fan which is 16mm tall – I assume only the Finnisher body fits?

2. Has anyone tried a 10mm thick fan with the prime mount and got a silencer body on! Or does the extra 10mm get in the way.

3. If I want to cut the body I believe it’s illegal to cutout the body (unless the body has pre-marked air inlet marks) is that correct?
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Old 01-21-2016, 03:28 PM
  #25149  
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Originally Posted by aeRayls
Ok so.... You don't lose travel no matter which spring cups you use. The different height spring cups are used for:
To use the springs on several different shock length. Example: 9mm cups for putting the springs on the truck and 0mm for getting a lower ride height with the stiffer springs like running on carpet.

By adding 6mm-9mm of fuel tubing outside of the shock, you 100% limited your up travel by that same amount! All of the sizes of spring cups sit in the same position on the shock eyelet at the same height. The cups only affect the spring and where it sits.

Example:
Using the kit recommended 5mm offset cup with the white front spring set at the desired ride height is the EXACT same thing as using the 0mm offset cup with the same spring but turning the threaded shock collar down 5mm. None of the spring cups effect the up travel or down travel of the shock shaft.
One aspect that hasn't been brought up on the shock shaft o-ring is the benefit when the car rolls out. Suspension bump stops have been used for many years as a cushion when the suspension limits out. What happens, for example in a deep roll corner, when the suspension hits the stop is a high load transfer to that wheel. Almost like an electrical short to ground. Tires can be rate sensitive; i.e. the higher load rate the more easily they break traction. Bump stops ease, or slow down, the rate of load application to the grounded wheel. I've not tried it with my B5M, but the change seems directionally beneficial with the assumption it is at the cost of suspension travel .
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Old 01-21-2016, 04:00 PM
  #25150  
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I did not want to remove the shock ends to keep their threads good and used the fuel tubing out of pure simple test. Once I rebuild the shocks I will use an old oring or spare rebuild kit oring instead of the fuel tubing.

I will be trying all sorts of simple tune stuff as I learn how our high grip carpet track is driven. All part of the fun.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:31 PM
  #25151  
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I seem to be having an odd issue with the Kashima shock pistons. One of the shock pistons has what seems like a lot of play after being screwed in. The other 3 have zero vertical play after being screwed in. I double checked that the washer was on there and tried flipping things around but it still has a lot of play. I assume this will adversely affect the way the shock functions. I plan to call AE tomorrow. Has anyone else encountered this?

Originally Posted by jstang50
I just purchased one of these kits and while installing the rear clamping 7mm hex on the upgraded axle I broke the bolt off in the hex. Is there a better aftermarket hex I can buy that will fit on the upgraded axle shaft? Thanks
I ran into this as well, except its just stripped the screw in my case. Now that I know about it I probably could've avoided it but I wasn't wrenching on it that hard to begin with. I've never had any issues with the the hexes on my SC10.2 and TLR22. I know the B5M FL is all about saving weight but using the smaller screw seems silly.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:40 PM
  #25152  
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I bet they save at least 71 Gnat's hairs worth of rear end weight.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:27 PM
  #25153  
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Thinking about running pucks again with new rollers but staying with kit diff parts, no alum. outdrives, would it be ok or would it eat the rollers.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:44 PM
  #25154  
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Originally Posted by Cridd
Thinking about running pucks again with new rollers but staying with kit diff parts, no alum. outdrives, would it be ok or would it eat the rollers.
You wouldn't be able to use the kit diff outdrives. You'd want to use the MIP steel outdrives that comes with the shiny pucks kit.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:20 AM
  #25155  
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Looks like Rivkin is running a 3rd hole in the front arm at the Reedy race.


Image courtesy of RedRC
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