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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 12-15-2015, 09:17 PM
  #24451  
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Just got my Titatium Turnbuckles: Should I use the original ball cups or would be the RPM (just have them as spares) the better choice (improvment in ??)
(I won't mind to disassemble the original ones).
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:09 AM
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Originals in B5m are much better then RPM. Not like B4 series.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Cridd
Shock package may be something to try.
I think we're already leaning that way by swapping the 4x1.3 to the rear. My belief is they were always in between the 1.6 and 1.7, so it seems logical that would be the next step. I'm thinking with the less weight transfer of the 3 gear MM, we can run packages with less dampening (thinner oil and bigger holes) than we did with 4 gear. I'm currently on 35 1.6 fr and 30 3x1.4 rr and it just feels better everywhere.
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Old 12-16-2015, 05:46 AM
  #24454  
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Originally Posted by Kalio
I wonder if we've met before? I remember seeing you post in other threads before. I recognize your name too, though I can't put a face to it. You're a heck of a buggy driver in stock. Anyway, still relatively new to the hobby and trying to meet new people and learn everything I can.

I'll be at Bumps this Sunday with my brand new B5m CE (painted dark blue with white stripe and side wing panels), hopefully practicing it tomorrow night for the first time.
He's very fast. In stock I think it's been Thomas, Joey, Stuart, Juan the last few weeks 1-4 with any of the 4 able to win. Andrew Gray is blazing too when he's there (he just won the classic). I tend to be in that next wave of guys after those top 4 (finished 5th a few times). Since you're new, I would just go 3 gear (for 17.5) and then go look at the Factory Lite setup sheet on AE's website. Copy that and start there. It was very good. Very neutral and easy to drive.
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Old 12-16-2015, 06:01 AM
  #24455  
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This 3 gear tans is that the same as the old b3/b4 ran.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:24 AM
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No it's not at all really. Only the main ball diff gear is the same. Rest is all new.
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JBR18
This 3 gear tans is that the same as the old b3/b4 ran.

Nope
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:28 AM
  #24458  
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Originally Posted by Silberpfeil
No it's not at all really. Only the main ball diff gear is the same. Rest is all new.
Even that's not the same B4 and later have 12 diff balls, B5 series have 14.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:10 AM
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Has anyone purchased a Phantom body from Pro-Line? Did it fit?

The one I received SUCKS
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:35 AM
  #24460  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
He's very fast. In stock I think it's been Thomas, Joey, Stuart, Juan the last few weeks 1-4 with any of the 4 able to win. Andrew Gray is blazing too when he's there (he just won the classic). I tend to be in that next wave of guys after those top 4 (finished 5th a few times). Since you're new, I would just go 3 gear (for 17.5) and then go look at the Factory Lite setup sheet on AE's website. Copy that and start there. It was very good. Very neutral and easy to drive.
Yup, that's exactly what I plan to do, though I've heard to use heavier shock fluid (currently 37.5/40). I'm not sure which gear set to use though at Bumps. Right now I have a 34 pinion and 72 spur.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:41 AM
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how often do you guys replace plastic suspension parts. im finding that after 4 or 5 runs there is a ton of slop in the suspension. mainly in the front. rear takes about twice as long to get sloppy. gets kind of old replacing all the plastics in the front after everyday of racing. I run 17.5 on medium bite indoor clay. my t5m is even worse.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by walter white
how often do you guys replace plastic suspension parts. im finding that after 4 or 5 runs there is a ton of slop in the suspension. mainly in the front. rear takes about twice as long to get sloppy. gets kind of old replacing all the plastics in the front after everyday of racing. I run 17.5 on medium bite indoor clay. my t5m is even worse.
Been running the same front end on my buggy that I first built it with , 1.5 years ago. Very little slop. I also run on indoor clay, very high bite. It is important to run the set screw kit in the buggy, and glue in your front axle inserts.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kalio
Yup, that's exactly what I plan to do, though I've heard to use heavier shock fluid (currently 37.5/40). I'm not sure which gear set to use though at Bumps. Right now I have a 34 pinion and 72 spur.
You can try that but I think that's pretty thick on the oils.

Especially when it starts getting colder. Just use the Factory Lite setup exactly. Even if you have the CE parts, it will still treat ya well

17.5 gearing is close enough. I use 33/69 but that's not really that different. You're in the ball park so don't worry too much about that. Get your Dirt Webs or Bar Flys worn in some and you'll be dialed
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by walter white
how often do you guys replace plastic suspension parts. im finding that after 4 or 5 runs there is a ton of slop in the suspension. mainly in the front. rear takes about twice as long to get sloppy. gets kind of old replacing all the plastics in the front after everyday of racing. I run 17.5 on medium bite indoor clay. my t5m is even worse.
I have some slop in my car too. don't worry about it. I've said this before, and I'll say it again, slop = grip. These cars work best IMO when they are clapped out. The only exception is drive train. I shoot for zero slop there.
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:43 AM
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My suspension stuff doesnt seem too clapped out, ran the car for 6 months straight and didnt change an arm or anything. There is definitely some slop but not excessive
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