Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
Another option is just to leave it in there and get a few more bearings so someday down the road you can build a complete 4 gear to have as a quick swap unit? That's what I am gonna do as 5X10 bearings are as plentiful as water, thanks AE engineers!
Tech Addict
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Tech Apprentice
Hello Guys!
Going to make the move from a RC10 B5 to B5M. So was wondering if any set up will translate from the B5 to the B5M. Like shock oil weight? I run 30WF, 25WR at the track I run on. Should I just go with that? Or, is the MM car a totally different animal and start from stock. In all my old RM cars/trucks I have always liked zero anti squat. Would that translate to MM as well?
Anyhow, I am sure a lot have made the switch from a B5 to B5M and would like to learn from others on their experience. Hope to reduce the learning curve a bit!
Thanks!
Going to make the move from a RC10 B5 to B5M. So was wondering if any set up will translate from the B5 to the B5M. Like shock oil weight? I run 30WF, 25WR at the track I run on. Should I just go with that? Or, is the MM car a totally different animal and start from stock. In all my old RM cars/trucks I have always liked zero anti squat. Would that translate to MM as well?
Anyhow, I am sure a lot have made the switch from a B5 to B5M and would like to learn from others on their experience. Hope to reduce the learning curve a bit!
Thanks!
Tech Rookie
B5m vs. b5m Lite
Hey guys, I currently have the b5m and I was just wondering what is your guys thoughts on the b5m Lite, should I get it? Or do I just upgrade my b5m now? Let me know if the Lite is worth it or not? Thanks!
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
The cars feel different. You might have a hard time getting use to the MM car, at least at first. Although the set up for the front of both cars may be similar I'd just go with the book set up and adjust as needed. Also, as if you hadn't heard, it makes little sense to not buy a B5M Lite.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (68)
Yes depending on the condition of ur kit. If u run on low traction the chassis def helps. If u run on super high traction the 3 gear helps. It's all preference
Last edited by Dave H; 10-20-2015 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Clean up from thread merge
Tech Apprentice
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
on some I needed to shim and others I didnt. Case by case basis. But it is always a good idea to have various shims around. The top shaft sometimes needs a shim as well if you are OCD
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Go to rc10.com and look up the manual for the B5M Factory lite and go to the section about building the transmission and it will show the diff spacers. Part # ASC1733
Last edited by Gpeters66; 10-20-2015 at 08:52 AM. Reason: forgot info
Titianium turnbuckles
Lighter chassis
Lightweight top shaft and motor plate
HDD axles
FT bearings
Alum wheel hexes
Alum rear camber mount
Perhaps you could look at the cost of selling the old kit and getting a new one vs upgrading.
On another note: In my comparison, the lighter can jump higher and further due to it's weight and it feels more nimble. But sometimes a heavier car is preferred on certain tracks, so then I add those yokomo under battery chassis weights as it is easier to add weight than remove it. I love my Lite, and the guys who got the "M" are all switching over to lite this year.
Anyways, if you really need the 4 gear transmission, its just a motor plate and v2 gearbox that is needed.
Tech Champion
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Tech Prophet
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