Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Get the s works plastic rear wing they are a bit heavy bit indestructible. Lile really you can take a hammer to it. I have had mine for 6 months I think and a buddy's daughter has had one for over a year amain has them for 8 bucks I think
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
Just read this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobbyking User
Terrible terrible product. Bought four of these batteries, 32 days later ( 2 days out of warranty ) the negative terminal melted on one of the batteries. 2 months later all four have melted negative terminals. Insuffient casing support around the 5mm ports. Don't waste your money like I did
I think I'll stick to the 8.5 even though its quite powerful. I am going to train with my DX4C and the B4.2RS so I think the next step should be the 8.5T (and this kind of motor is often suggested for the B5M (the Sonic Mach 2).)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hobbyking User
Terrible terrible product. Bought four of these batteries, 32 days later ( 2 days out of warranty ) the negative terminal melted on one of the batteries. 2 months later all four have melted negative terminals. Insuffient casing support around the 5mm ports. Don't waste your money like I did
I think I'll stick to the 8.5 even though its quite powerful. I am going to train with my DX4C and the B4.2RS so I think the next step should be the 8.5T (and this kind of motor is often suggested for the B5M (the Sonic Mach 2).)
Tech Addict
Thanks!
Just thinking about which Motor/ESC Combo I should take...Kind of frustrated because I cant tell myself thats its a good idea to spent 680$ bucks ...damn my mind! Damn him!
Just thinking about which Motor/ESC Combo I should take...Kind of frustrated because I cant tell myself thats its a good idea to spent 680$ bucks ...damn my mind! Damn him!
Tech Champion
I have been using 2 of those batteries in my B5M Lite for a couple of months and have had no issues. The one thing I do is use a small amount of dielectric grease on the connections so they don't require so much force. I have been doing this for years on all my battery connections and have never had a fraction of the issues people report about plugs melting and wearing out. You do have to clean the connections and reapply the grease frequently to keep them clean but I feel it's worth the effort.
im just curious what the difference is between the hard arms and towers over the stock?
Thanks, might give it a try. Just wonder if the mount will be a weak point if the wing is that much stronger.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
I just put a Savox 1258 Black edition in my T5M and its frikin sweet!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
Where the contact between the metal pieces is solid the grease is pushed out and does not add any resistance. In the loose areas it remains and helps prevent arcing and corrosion. I've done resistance tests and have not seen any difference in the same connection with and without the grease. However with it the connection does go together and come apart easier.
For those of you running the +4mm mount, what o rings come in the kit thats "required" to run them?
Can you just run the generic orings, or did they get thinner ones?
Can you just run the generic orings, or did they get thinner ones?
Tech Rookie
What is involved and what parts do I need to change my 4 gear trans to a new 3 gear ? And will a Schelle clutch work on it afterwards
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Hi all,
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
Cheers!
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
Cheers!
Hi all,
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
V2 Pistons will only work w/ Version 2 pistons. They top is narrower (if I remember correctly) to account for the piston to "sit" on the shaft rather then be held between two eclips. So short answer is no.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Egh, tough call here. My original didn't leak that bad as long as I got the 4 screws tight. It helped, but not a ton.
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
There's not really any aftermarket options right now. Nor really another design to base it off of besides the Kyosho shocks.
Cheers!
Just a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer,
V2 Shock Shaft Pistons
1. Will the plastic pistons (e-clipped) work with the V2 screw in shock shafts? On occasion I have been known to hit a chicane at very high speed which smashes the lower e-clip so the screw in fronts will definitely help. Not as much as avoiding the chicane would be hey.
V2 Pistons will only work w/ Version 2 pistons. They top is narrower (if I remember correctly) to account for the piston to "sit" on the shaft rather then be held between two eclips. So short answer is no.
Gear Diff Cover
2. Has anyone tried the new metal gear diff cover and is it noticeably more effective and reducing leakage?
Egh, tough call here. My original didn't leak that bad as long as I got the 4 screws tight. It helped, but not a ton.
Bleeder Screw Gasket
3. What are everyone's thoughts on the shock bleeder screw gasket design. I cant help but think it doesn't seal properly, its very hard compared to the b4.2 and 44.2 rubber o-ring. Are people using any aftermarket alternatives with much success?
There's not really any aftermarket options right now. Nor really another design to base it off of besides the Kyosho shocks.
Cheers!
can anyone tell me what "hard" arms and towers will do over the stock parts? Is it worth getting them? thanks alo
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Thanks 3Srcracing