Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor Thread
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Tech Master
iTrader: (67)
I have been running the caged thrust for about 8 months. I love not having to deal with those tiny balls and it just makes the diff rebuild easier. But when used with Pucks, I just get goofy results. I ran a steel non carbide version and it was smooth in my stock diff and it lasted a while. So I tried the ceramic thinking it would last forever in my pucks, but the diff is feeling off after a short time. Your mileage may very. I am still on the fence about them.
I never used the HAT from the MIP kit with the larger (stock) size thrust balls. The MIP thrust balls are smaller so I always assumed the grove in their HAT was cut to match.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
So guys after browsing through the forum I am trying to reach a decision. B5m or B5m lite. Car will be ran on both high bite and med bite track... Ive heard from several people they are not 100% convinced the lite is always the best option. Thanks in advance!
Tech Adept
I would just get the lite kit myself. Has some of the aluminum stuff in the box already, better bearings, HD rear axles, titanium turnbuckles, and arms everybody was using anyway. Converting to the 4 gear transmission isn't really too expensive if you think you need it. That's what I've done but I run on an outdoor track that's very low grip. And I add ballast to calm the car down and make it easier to drive, my own preference.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
yes, the hat thrust washer is grooved to keep the balls contained. the reason is to prevent them from scoring the inside of the alum outdrive. Since steel is harder than alum. The hat, also fits into a larger than normal opening inside the outdrive to "key" it into place.
Tech Adept
Does anyone know which rear arms cav is running on his setup from the roar nats at srs. The setup sheet says b5 hard rear but in the write up its says he used hard b5m and the picks looks like b5m?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
The part number indicates Hard B5 rear motor arms. If you look at the AE released write up on his Nationals winning cars, there is a top down shot of his 2WD. it shows "L" on the right side and vise versa. He's running rear motor arms.
I just upgraded to the lite from the og b5m which i had approx 8 months of wheel time with . I basically put the same setup on the lite but upgraded the lite with ceramic tranny bearings and schelle slipper lockout and machined pistons x seals ect . Another thing i was running the trackstar with the og but have got the fantom works short stack in my new lite . First race meet on the lite and i am quite impressed , went .1 quicker on fast lap ( was hoping for a little more ) and pretty close to my best 5 min , could have gone quicker but ran into traffic in a2 and a3 . Very happy with the lite and sure in no time will get it feeling just as planted and confident as the my og b5m
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
Has anyone had any problems with the shocks leaking? I haven't run them yet, but built some last night and after putting together the bottom stack of "Flanged shim, x-ring, thick spacer, x-ring, flanged shim" it seems like that bottom stack has play between itself and the bottom shock cap. I am almost inclined to add a small washer of some kind to take up the slack.
This is with the Kashima coated shock bodies. Has anyone else run across this? Before anyone asks, the flanged shims are in the correct orientation.....
On a side note, I see most setups called for two pads on the slipper. Is anyone running the VTS slipper anymore or have all the drivers gone back to just two pads?
This is with the Kashima coated shock bodies. Has anyone else run across this? Before anyone asks, the flanged shims are in the correct orientation.....
On a side note, I see most setups called for two pads on the slipper. Is anyone running the VTS slipper anymore or have all the drivers gone back to just two pads?
Has anyone had any problems with the shocks leaking? I haven't run them yet, but built some last night and after putting together the bottom stack of "Flanged shim, x-ring, thick spacer, x-ring, flanged shim" it seems like that bottom stack has play between itself and the bottom shock cap. I am almost inclined to add a small washer of some kind to take up the slack.
This is with the Kashima coated shock bodies. Has anyone else run across this? Before anyone asks, the flanged shims are in the correct orientation.....
On a side note, I see most setups called for two pads on the slipper. Is anyone running the VTS slipper anymore or have all the drivers gone back to just two pads?
This is with the Kashima coated shock bodies. Has anyone else run across this? Before anyone asks, the flanged shims are in the correct orientation.....
On a side note, I see most setups called for two pads on the slipper. Is anyone running the VTS slipper anymore or have all the drivers gone back to just two pads?
Tech Adept
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
I dont soak mine and my orings and bushing are not moving with the shaft in and out. I have built 5 of these cars with xrings and the same thing. All good. Are you using AE xrings?