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Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread

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Old 09-12-2015, 07:40 AM
  #22651  
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Originally Posted by Socket
4 gear? Seriously? Please, in all of your infinite reasoning, why would you downgrade?

Leave the bearings, the kit bearings are cheap, but they will work right out of the box. Spraying out kit bearings is a very old practice for when runtimes and HP were an issue.
The track I will be running at can be pretty dry and slick coming out of some corners, so from what I have read about the 4 gear, it should help with rear traction. Is that not the case?

I was planning on going back to the 3 gear when we move inside this winter on to carpet.
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by dway100
The track I will be running at can be pretty dry and slick coming out of some corners, so from what I have read about the 4 gear, it should help with rear traction. Is that not the case?

I was planning on going back to the 3 gear when we move inside this winter on to carpet.
You test it, and see what you come up with. I've done my own on outdoor low bite, and did just fine with the 3 gear. Setup is always critical...
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by RCBuddha
mckunedesign.com
thanks
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Old 09-12-2015, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dway100
The track I will be running at can be pretty dry and slick coming out of some corners, so from what I have read about the 4 gear, it should help with rear traction. Is that not the case?

I was planning on going back to the 3 gear when we move inside this winter on to carpet.
4 gear will help pitch weight to the rear under acceleration.

I run a 4 gear with cut gears and lightened shaft and slipper elim on my Serpent and I have ridiculous acceleration too with the benefit of the weight transfer.

I think the 3 gear thing is mostly hype and the newest fad, most will go back to 4 gear eventually. 3 gear is for higher grip so it would work great on carpet with a gear diff and slipper elim.
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Old 09-12-2015, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Socket
It worked great on my XXX in 1997.
You had a Triple X in 1997? Intriguing.
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Old 09-12-2015, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak
Not having actually raced this TP motor and only spending time doing practices, I settled on a final ratio quite a bit lower than you did. With your gearing you ended up at 6.455, running mine at 33\69 puts me at 5.436. If I stick to five minute intervals and timing on the end can turned almost all the way down, I am temping the TP 17.5 at around 145, pretty safe temp range from what I can gather.

I would be curious to see how your buggy handles a lower ratio and if you can see improved lap times or not. Since I am gearing to use the torque this motor provides, I found that adding timing brought on more heat with less ability to swing the lower gear ratio with out any added acceleration. Since the track is being reset this week, this might all be a moot point if it is a more open and flowing track come this weekend
With the timing at 40* on the old Nor-Cal layout I could run consistent 15.5s and a fast lap of 15.2. The local hot shoes ran a second faster than me with my car. When I ran 72/30 or 31, I would never top out in speed and I could never accelerate as fast as the others racing.

I used to run tall gearing and low timing but found out I was faster gearing down and adding timing.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:30 AM
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Default B5 diff

I have a few b5 3 gear diffs. On one of them I can't get the diff screw tight enough so that the one tire spins one revolution or less. After it bottoms out and feels normal I spin one wheel and it spins much more then the other two cars. I pulled it out and put in a all new diff, new screw, spring and thrust and have same issue. It feels fine on the track but does not put me in my happy place when it is on the bench and I spin it and then spin the others. I cant spin one tire when holding spur and other tire so that tells me it is fine....is it just a free spinning car and let it be or should I look at anything else.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Cridd
I have a few b5 3 gear diffs. On one of them I can't get the diff screw tight enough so that the one tire spins one revolution or less. After it bottoms out and feels normal I spin one wheel and it spins much more then the other two cars. I pulled it out and put in a all new diff, new screw, spring and thrust and have same issue. It feels fine on the track but does not put me in my happy place when it is on the bench and I spin it and then spin the others. I cant spin one tire when holding spur and other tire so that tells me it is fine....is it just a free spinning car and let it be or should I look at anything else.

All you can do is compare that all the new parts you just rebuilt the diff with are of the same exact size and length as the ones they replaced. No other parts replaced at the same time? Out drives or the washers that go on them are same parts or at least the same measurements? Did the diff get broken in all the way and the balls are not just sliding on the polished rings? Did you replace everything on the thrust bearing side and not leave something out?

About all I can think of..
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave H
You had a Triple X in 1997? Intriguing.
He's not very good at math...or remembering anything...
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Old 09-13-2015, 03:26 PM
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Still having a lot of pushing, this thing is a plow.

off power steering is awful, had no mid to exit steering. only had time to mush front shocks a little and battery, it got a little better but not where I need it to be.

I threw down my Serpent and it's worlds of a difference.


Really need help guys.

Thinking the aluminum or brass front bulkhead is needed.
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Old 09-13-2015, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings
He's not very good at math...or remembering anything...
You take diffy q and tell me how you do....
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Old 09-13-2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cridd
I have a few b5 3 gear diffs. On one of them I can't get the diff screw tight enough so that the one tire spins one revolution or less. After it bottoms out and feels normal I spin one wheel and it spins much more then the other two cars. I pulled it out and put in a all new diff, new screw, spring and thrust and have same issue. It feels fine on the track but does not put me in my happy place when it is on the bench and I spin it and then spin the others. I cant spin one tire when holding spur and other tire so that tells me it is fine....is it just a free spinning car and let it be or should I look at anything else.
Did you compress the spring?
Verify all components are installed correctly.
Beyond that check the rest of the drive train focusing on all the bearings first, then your cvd.
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Old 09-13-2015, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Still having a lot of pushing, this thing is a plow.

off power steering is awful, had no mid to exit steering. only had time to mush front shocks a little and battery, it got a little better but not where I need it to be.

I threw down my Serpent and it's worlds of a difference.


Really need help guys.

Thinking the aluminum or brass front bulkhead is needed.
are you running a LP servo? before you guy brass, try some lead weight under the rack. did you try 3/2 in the rear? or 2.5/2. If your car is way off, you probably dont have the "right" tire combo.
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Old 09-13-2015, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mason
Did you compress the spring?
Verify all components are installed correctly.
Beyond that check the rest of the drive train focusing on all the bearings first, then your cvd.
caged thrust? mip vs ae diff bolt?
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Old 09-13-2015, 05:11 PM
  #22665  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Still having a lot of pushing, this thing is a plow.

off power steering is awful, had no mid to exit steering. only had time to mush front shocks a little and battery, it got a little better but not where I need it to be.

I threw down my Serpent and it's worlds of a difference.


Really need help guys.

Thinking the aluminum or brass front bulkhead is needed.
Throw what you have on a setup sheet and post it. Include all the details and the type of track you are running on. I just got spanked by a Serpent my last time out but I also ran door to door with the guy previously. I think pretty much any of the top brand cars are pretty much equally made for the average person. Its all in the building/tuning/driving.
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