Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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I run 5% drag brake in my orion R10s with mod motors. It's pretty much my go to setting. I like just enough drag brake that my car doesn't "run on" and I can barely feel it. The number greatly depends on the controller too... like 10% drag brake in my orion makes me spin out when I let off the throttle in some corners, so it's too much for me.
Tebo once told me that he felt that you always need "a little" drag brake in 2wd for those corners you need a little brake for because you'll never get it right every time with just push brake. Remember that that does not equate to a number in a controller, it equates to a feel, and some motors already slow down well on their own without anything in the controller, and some motors will spin free for days.
Wayne
Tebo once told me that he felt that you always need "a little" drag brake in 2wd for those corners you need a little brake for because you'll never get it right every time with just push brake. Remember that that does not equate to a number in a controller, it equates to a feel, and some motors already slow down well on their own without anything in the controller, and some motors will spin free for days.
Wayne
Were all very glad you're discounting somebody elses needs. Some people like a lot of drag brake, some people just a little, and some people prefer none.[/QUOTE]
Not discounting at all. I ment no harm in it at all. Like I said some layout people prefer more and other layouts 0 drag
Not discounting at all. I ment no harm in it at all. Like I said some layout people prefer more and other layouts 0 drag
Tech Lord
iTrader: (52)
I run 5% drag brake in my orion R10s with mod motors. It's pretty much my go to setting. I like just enough drag brake that my car doesn't "run on" and I can barely feel it. The number greatly depends on the controller too... like 10% drag brake in my orion makes me spin out when I let off the throttle in some corners, so it's too much for me.
Tebo once told me that he felt that you always need "a little" drag brake in 2wd for those corners you need a little brake for because you'll never get it right every time with just push brake. Remember that that does not equate to a number in a controller, it equates to a feel, and some motors already slow down well on their own without anything in the controller, and some motors will spin free for days.
Wayne
Tebo once told me that he felt that you always need "a little" drag brake in 2wd for those corners you need a little brake for because you'll never get it right every time with just push brake. Remember that that does not equate to a number in a controller, it equates to a feel, and some motors already slow down well on their own without anything in the controller, and some motors will spin free for days.
Wayne
I run my drag brake just to keep the car's "run-on" in check. Just enough that it starts to slow the car down, but doesn't feel like it shifts any weight to the front tires. For example, the car would still roll the length of the straight-away. I like to do all my braking manually.
I believe on the Reedy 410R when you switch to the default blinky mode, the standard setting is 30% drag brake... and what's odd is I didn't even think i had drag brake on while I was driving... but without it on, I really noticed the difference and quickly put it back on. I'll probably end up slightly turning it down, but it is kind of nice never having to break, just know when to let off.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
I run no drag brake on any of my vehicles. Most certainly don't need any for my b5m. The thing turns pretty aggressive already.
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Wondering if anyone knows why when I get on the throttle onto the straight, about 30'-60' later my buggy starts doing a wicked wheelie? There's nothing on the track causing the front end to lift I don't believe, no crazy bump. I'm not using turbo or boost either. My EPA is -20%. Running a 4 gear and a Schelle slipper. Two white pads and a red pad. Med-high traction clay.
Anyone?
Anyone?
Tech Adept
hmm..needs a front wing
Wondering if anyone knows why when I get on the throttle onto the straight, about 30'-60' later my buggy starts doing a wicked wheelie? There's nothing on the track causing the front end to lift I don't believe, no crazy bump. I'm not using turbo or boost either. My EPA is -20%. Running a 4 gear and a Schelle slipper. Two white pads and a red pad. Med-high traction clay.
Anyone?
Anyone?
Wondering if anyone knows why when I get on the throttle onto the straight, about 30'-60' later my buggy starts doing a wicked wheelie? There's nothing on the track causing the front end to lift I don't believe, no crazy bump. I'm not using turbo or boost either. My EPA is -20%. Running a 4 gear and a Schelle slipper. Two white pads and a red pad. Med-high traction clay.
Anyone?
Anyone?
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
I am just getting back into r/c after a several year layoff. Almost all of my previous racing was indoor on carpet with either touring cars or 12th scale. I just ordered a b5m lite and the necessary parts to put a 4 gear tranny in since I will be racing outdoors on a lower grip track. My question is about the bearings. For now I will run the kit bearings - do people pull the seals and clean out any grease and re-oil like what did indoors , or just install them as they come. I will be running mod if that makes a difference.
Thanks
Thanks
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I am running a 7.5T, 25T pinion and 78T spur.
For wicker I am running a Trifecta wing, with it cut to the lowest line, which now that I am looking at it, is still a fairly large scoop! The Trifecta cut down compared to a JC wing at stock wicker, no cutting, so the wicker is fairly large. I guess that could be the issue. I have considered running 20g of weight in front...
For wicker I am running a Trifecta wing, with it cut to the lowest line, which now that I am looking at it, is still a fairly large scoop! The Trifecta cut down compared to a JC wing at stock wicker, no cutting, so the wicker is fairly large. I guess that could be the issue. I have considered running 20g of weight in front...
I am just getting back into r/c after a several year layoff. Almost all of my previous racing was indoor on carpet with either touring cars or 12th scale. I just ordered a b5m lite and the necessary parts to put a 4 gear tranny in since I will be racing outdoors on a lower grip track. My question is about the bearings. For now I will run the kit bearings - do people pull the seals and clean out any grease and re-oil like what did indoors , or just install them as they come. I will be running mod if that makes a difference.
Thanks
Thanks
Leave the bearings, the kit bearings are cheap, but they will work right out of the box. Spraying out kit bearings is a very old practice for when runtimes and HP were an issue.
I am running a 7.5T, 25T pinion and 78T spur.
For wicker I am running a Trifecta wing, with it cut to the lowest line, which now that I am looking at it, is still a fairly large scoop! The Trifecta cut down compared to a JC wing at stock wicker, no cutting, so the wicker is fairly large. I guess that could be the issue. I have considered running 20g of weight in front...
For wicker I am running a Trifecta wing, with it cut to the lowest line, which now that I am looking at it, is still a fairly large scoop! The Trifecta cut down compared to a JC wing at stock wicker, no cutting, so the wicker is fairly large. I guess that could be the issue. I have considered running 20g of weight in front...
Tech Elite
iTrader: (109)
anybody know who sells the brass weight that goes under the battery?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (40)