Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread
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Tech Initiate
Does the b5 to b5m conversion kit come with the latest v2 gearbox. There was a review that it didnt on amain but just wondering if they fixed it or not
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/sworkz-...501800/p267309
This is what I have been using its a little heavy but indestructible.
This is what I have been using its a little heavy but indestructible.
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/sworkz-...501800/p267309
This is what I have been using its a little heavy but indestructible.
This is what I have been using its a little heavy but indestructible.
Does the wing with the holes line up perfectly with the associated mounts spacing or just get the version without holes?
TOP 5 Mods for 17.5 Class
Ok guys, after searching several sites i want to get Everyone's opinion who RACES 17.5 Stock class with the B5m Factory Lite.
Please quote this post to help sort through the other discussion.
Thank you guys.
Please quote this post to help sort through the other discussion.
Thank you guys.
i got the version without the holes it has marks on the bottom so its pretty easy to line up and drill.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
IT IS LIKE A BIG FLAPPER ON THE REAR OF THE CAR BUT IS INDESTRUCTABLE, I USED IT IN MY FIRST RACE WITH MINE THIS WEEKEND AND FELT GOOD IT IS THE SAME AS WILDCAT USES
Tech Champion
iTrader: (515)
The Lite is excellent. Great kit. 100% competitive out of the box for stock or mod.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (105)
I have raced my B5m Factory lite a couple of times (17.5 stock with the trinity short stack 1s 17.5 motor). On indoor clay the car "with the out of the box, kit set-up" was 1 second a lap faster than my b4.2 (24ish second laps in stock).
On an outdoor, dirt track the B5M with slightly softer rear shocks (lighter spring and lighter shock oil) was only .2 seconds faster (again avg of 24ish second laps in stock) than my b4.2, however it was more consistent per lap (my top 5 was close to a second faster with the B5m Factory lite than with my 4.2 factory team.
I have been very happy with the B5M for racing stock vs. my B4.2. (an I liked my 4.2
Tim
On an outdoor, dirt track the B5M with slightly softer rear shocks (lighter spring and lighter shock oil) was only .2 seconds faster (again avg of 24ish second laps in stock) than my b4.2, however it was more consistent per lap (my top 5 was close to a second faster with the B5m Factory lite than with my 4.2 factory team.
I have been very happy with the B5M for racing stock vs. my B4.2. (an I liked my 4.2
Tim
Tech Apprentice
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
well not a flapper as in noises it just looks big and heavy, it is a little heavier but very very durable , it is actually not as loud as lexan doesn't make noise when it flips on its lid much at all which kinda hurts on marshaling sometimes, we all marshall with our ears as much as our eyes
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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I'm guessing he was referring to the fact that YOUR CAPS LOCK WAS ON AND YOU WERE YELLING.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
well not a flapper as in noises it just looks big and heavy, it is a little heavier but very very durable , it is actually not as loud as lexan doesn't make noise when it flips on its lid much at all which kinda hurts on marshaling sometimes, we all marshall with our ears as much as our eyes
I have ran 4 weekends one one wing
Like the others said, practice on some connectors then try the motor.
When you change esc wires a good thing to have is a solder sucker. It's a spring loaded device that will pull hot solder out of things. Get the esc posts hot then suck all the solder off of them. It makes putting new wire on a breeze.
Here is Randy Pike from Tekin showing how on an RX8. That's a big speedo but the method still applies.
http://youtu.be/1zQqiJDUkn0
When you change esc wires a good thing to have is a solder sucker. It's a spring loaded device that will pull hot solder out of things. Get the esc posts hot then suck all the solder off of them. It makes putting new wire on a breeze.
Here is Randy Pike from Tekin showing how on an RX8. That's a big speedo but the method still applies.
http://youtu.be/1zQqiJDUkn0
I'm not so novice on soldering, but I don't realise how to manage the ESC.
That RX8 has external plates. Mine is like this:
How can I unsolder it without opening or the risk to damage?
Ok, connectors are not recommended for efficency, dircect wiring from ESC to motor is tidy, motor change can be still achieved fast even by unsoldering.
But what about cutting the connectors off the ESC cables, and just add the cable needed to reach the motor, cable-cable soldering?